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WAFER'S 
D ARIEN 



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copies have been printed, and 
the type distributed. This is 



No. 



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A NEW VOYAGE AND 
DESCRIPTION OF THE 
ISTHMUS OF AMERICA 

& ■ BY LIONEL WAFER & 



Reprinted from the original edition of 1699 



EDITED BY 

GEORGE PARKER WINSHIP 

Librarian of the John Carter Brown Library 







THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS. 

Two Copies Receiver" ^ 

rtn 24 1903 

CLASS °*** XXc. No 



Copyright, 1903 

BY 

The Burrows Brothers Company 



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CONTENTS 

Map of the Isthmus of Panama and 

Darien .... Frontispiece 

Introduction 
Wafer's Darien 

Title-page (facsimile) 

Dedication 

To the Reader 

Mr. Wafer's Voyages; and Description 

of the Isthmus of America . -33 
Mr. Wafer's Description of the Isth- 
mus of America . . . .69 
Of the Trees, Fruits, &c. in the Isth- 
mus of America . . . -95 
Of the Animals; and first of Beasts 

and Reptiles . . . .110 
The Birds, and flying Insects . .118 

Of the Fish 126 

Of the Indian Inhabitants; their 

Manners, Customs, &c. . .131 
Mr. Wafer's Voyages, &c. . . . 173 

Index ....... 199 

Map : Isthmus of Darien, & Bay of Panama, 
facing page 33. Illustrations : The Indians 
manner of Bloodletting, facing page 54; The 
Indians in their Robes in Councel, and Smoaking 
tobacco after their way, facing page 109; The 
Indians marching upon a Visit, or to Feast, 
facing page 137. 

Supplementary Index . . . .211 



INTRODUCTION 

OF all the American inter-oceanic highways, 
the one which is today least known was 
at the end of the seventeenth century 
the most familiar to the readers of popular 
literature. The pressure of European rivalries 
and the opportunities for money-getting, com- 
bined with the interest which every one feels 
in the doings of those whose career lies outside 
the pale of ordinary legalized ways of getting a 
livelihood, gave to the side-door entrance to the 
Pacific — the Darien route of Wafer and his 
fellow-buccaneers — a prominence greater than 
it enjoyed ever before or since. During the 
twenty years which ended in 1700, there was 
an intermittent stream of travelers along this 
route, occasionally interrupted for a season or 
two, and then started afresh by new rumors 
of Spanish unpreparedness or by some too 
vigorous investigation into the doings of chance 
sailing vessels on the Caribbean waters. Eng- 
lish and French and New-Englanders, with 
Dutch and Moors and native Americans, the 
pick of the ne'er-do-wells of all the world, 
climbed the mountain-paths and floated down 
stream into the South Seas, to fight or to drown, 



INTRODUCTION 



to gamble and gorge or perish of thirst, for the 
sake of winning the gold demanded by the harlots 
and winesellers of Kingstown and Petit Guaves. 
Great as are the gains of piracy, they must 
always be less than the ultimate profits of 
legitimate trade, and so the unyielding laws of 
human affairs decreed that the buccaneers must 
disappear, and with them went their favorite 
pathways to the hunting-grounds across the 
Isthmus. The country through which they 
passed remains today much as they left it two 
hundred years ago, as it has been preserved for 
us on the pages of Lionel Wafer's entertaining 
account of what he saw and did in the spring 
months of the year 1681. The candle-snuffers 
have been displaced by sometimes- white cotton 
breeches, and the sellers of print-cloths have 
introduced the gaiety of their fabrics into the 
scenes of merry-making. The missionary 
priests have taken the place of the pawaws, 
and by the service of the mass and the jollifica- 
tions of holy days are gradually leading their 
widely scattered flocks toward European ways 
of living and thinking. But the mountain- 
passes remain as steep as of old, the torrents 
flood the valleys with the same overwhelming 
unexpectedness, the plantain- walks are as 
delightsome and the savannahs as fruitful, as 
when Wafer saw them. 

For more than a hundred years Spain per- 
sisted in the refusal to allow her heretical British 
rivals to have any lawful commercial intercourse 
with her possessions in the West Indies. But 



INTRODUCTION 



prohibitions and interdicts could not keep the 
English sailors and traders away from the 
wealth of the Islands and the Main. The 
Spaniards indulged in the pleasures of retalia- 
tion, despite the fact that each year found them 
further and further behind in the account against 
the free-handed British rovers. There was " no 
peace beyond the line" of the tropics, and so 
the plundering of ships and stealing of crops 
went on, to the demoralizing prosperity of 
Jamaica and of some high in official station at 
home. But the end had to come at last, and the 
Treaty of Madrid was agreed to in the summer of 
1 67 1, just too late to save Spain from the crown- 
ing aggravation of Morgan's sack of Panama. 

Peace was more easily proclaimed than 
enforced. The habits of more than a century — 
habits of reckless daring and riotous debauchery, 
of a steady flow of Spanish treasure through 
Jamaica toward London, where the complaints 
of those who felt the decrease in rents and per- 
quisites were not the least of the troubles of the 
Lords of Trade and Plantations — were not 
readily overcome. Some of the buccaneers who, 
like Henry Morgan, were in funds at the time, 
settled down and became most respectable 
members of the community. More spent their 
money as they had spent it before, and then 
looked about for a fresh supply. Thus it is 
easy to understand how it came to pass that 
every now and then a shipload of jolly lads, 
with nothing in the world to lose, sailed out by 
Port Royal to take whatever the high seas had 
to offer. 



10 INTRODUCTION 



With one of these crews Lionel Wafer set out 
to seek his fortune. He was a young English- 
man who had already voyaged to the East 
Indies, picking up some notions of surgery and 
physic on the way, and he had traveled in 
Ireland and Scotland, where he acquired the 
Highland tongue. He went to Jamaica to visit 
a brother, who found a place for him, but the 
tales of the seas soon tempted him away from 
settled life. The increasing freedom with 
which the buccaneers came and went during 
the rule of Governor Modyford encouraged them 
to make plans for an exploit which should rival 
Morgan's famous sack of Panama. Recruits 
were easily gathered, and when Wafer reached 
the rendezvous at one of the islands off the Da- 
rien coast, he found nearly four hundred com- 
rades assembled to discuss the opportunities for 
successful plunderings. They decided to attack 
Santa Maria, a gold-washing station on the 
opposite side of the Isthmus. Leaving a small 
guard with their seven ships, they began the over- 
land march on April 5, 1680. Nine days of hard 
marching up and down hills and of harder float- 
ing down streams choked with logs over which 
the heavy tree-trunk canoes had to be dragged, 
brought the party to their goal, which was 
promptly carried by assault. Unluckily, most 
of the Spaniards had fled at the first warning of 
their approach, carrying off nearly everything 
of value. This disappointment confirmed the 
majority of the buccaneers in a desire to pursue 
their earlier plan of attacking Panama, and the 
less venturesome minority, who favored going 



INTRODUCTION 11 



back to the ships, were induced to go forward 
by the election of their leader, Coxon, as chief 
of the expedition. Seven who were too faint- 
hearted to go on were sent back to notify the 
guard at the ships, while the rest embarked in 
canoes procured from the Indians and rowed 
forth to try the fortunes of the South Seas. 

A trading-boat, unsuspicious of danger, soon 
fell in their way, and became the nucleus of 
their fleet. Approaching Panama, they learned 
that the city had been forewarned by the fugi- 
tives from Santa Maria, and three little war-ships 
confirmed this news by coming out to attack 
them. There was a sharp fight, which ended 
by two of the Spanish ships being added to the 
buccaneer force. The new-comers spent the 
next fortnight in looking about among the 
islands of the Gulf of Panama, picking up a few 
stray provision boats, searching for fresh-water 
supply, planning schemes for the future, and 
talking about their exploits in the recent 
battles. Some of the stories told about the 
fight off Panama described the backwardness of 
Coxon in closing with the enemy, and when this 
gossip reached his ears, he took such offense 
that he forthwith abandoned the expedi- 
tion and started back across the Isthmus to 
the North Sea. About seventy of his immediate 
followers went with him, leaving behind the 
wounded men of their company. The bad feel- 
ing caused thereby was aggravated by the fact 
that Coxon took away the principal surgeon and 
most of the medicines. This doubtless con- 
tributed to Wafer's professional advancement, 



12 INTRODUCTION 



although he seems still to have been far 
from holding a recognized place as a practitioner. 
A merchant craft from Truxillo in Peru, loaded 
with gunpowder, two thousand jars of wine and 
brandy, and fifty-one thousand pieces-of-eight 
(the Spanish colonial dollar), relieved the monot- 
ony of gossip and fault-finding, and then it was 
decided to take Puebla Nueva, north of Pana- 
ma. Here a careless beginning led to rash- 
ness, for which Sawkins, Coxon's successor as 
chief, paid with his life, and the attack failed 
completely. Sawkins was probably the ablest 
of the captains, and his definite schemes for a 
campaign down the Peruvian coast and home- 
ward through the Strait of Magellan had held 
together many who felt little sympathy with 
the more reckless of the freebooters. After his 
death, sixty-three of his followers withdrew 
from the expedition and went back by way of 
the Darien route. Some time before this, two 
of the smaller boats, with seven and fifteen men 
in them, had slipped away from the fleet to try 
their luck by themselves, with what results is 
not known. Despite the departure of the more 
discordant partisans, there was still a pro- 
nounced difference of opinion among those who 
remained regarding future plans, and this was 
increased by the election of Bartholomew Sharp 
as Sawkins 's successor. Sharp was in all prob- 
ability the best man for the chief command, 
although a large party, including Wafer and 
Dampier, had no confidence in his courage or 
skill as a leader. 

A cruise to the southward was decided upon, 



INTRODUCTION 13 



and for six months, beginning June 6, 1680, the 
buccaneers followed the South American coast. 
The trip yielded little except to the luckier 
gamesters, in whose money-bags the bulk of 
the plunder gradually accumulated. A well- 
planned attack on Guayaquil had to be given up 
because of information secured by the enemy 
from a stray party which had gone off in a 
small boat to look for women and wine, and who 
were quickly enticed into an ambuscade. The 
tedious voyage, with vanishing water supply, 
continued down the coast to Arica, where armed 
horsemen awaited their arrival at every land- 
ing-place. Thence they bore up for Ilo, where 
fortune changed and the town was captured. 
They found little booty, everything of value 
having been removed excepting the much- 
needed water and fruit-trees. From here they 
sailed to the island of Juan Fernandez, where 
the labors of gathering wood, water, and goat 
meat were enlivened by the festivities of Christ- 
mas and New Year's. 

The disputes over Sharp's leadership contin- 
ued and, while at Juan Fernandez, he was 
outwitted and put in irons until after an old- 
time buccaneer, John Watling, had been agreed 
upon to be his successor as chief. The appear- 
ance of three armed vessels approaching the 
island forced the buccaneers to put to sea, and 
Watling easily persuaded his fellows, who were 
no more eager than the Spaniards to close in an 
engagement, to sail away for the mainland. A 
spirited attack was made on Arica, and the city 
should have been taken, but Watling, unable 



14 INTRODUCTION 



to control his men, misdirected the assault. He 
was killed, and the whole force came very near 
to the same end. Sharp, who had been fight- 
ing in the ranks, at last yielded to entreaties 
and took command, successfully drawing off his 
comrades to their boats. In the confusion the 
surgeons, although aware of the retreat, were 
left behind — a result of their having found a 
well-stocked wine-room in the church which 
they had occupied to use as a hospital. Luckily 
their profession was in demand thereabouts, and 
after they had sobered off, their lives were 
granted on condition that they settled down to 
practice in the city. Wafer, who was one of the 
guard stationed at the boats during the engage- 
ment and thus escaped the fate of his profes- 
sional superiors, seems by their loss to have 
risen to the post of chief surgeon to what was 
left of the expedition. 

The disaster at Arica aroused fresh dissen- 
sions, which were not quieted by a lucky descent 
upon Ilo a few days later. Continuing the 
voyage northward, when off the Isle of Plate or 
Drake's Island, made famous by the tales of 
how Sir Francis divided his booty by the bucket- 
fuls of coined silver, the factions finally agreed 
to separate. The minority, numbering fifty- 
two, of whom three were Indians and five negro 
slaves, started off in two canoes and the ship's 
launch or long-boat, to make their way back to 
the North Sea by way of Darien. One of this 
party was Wafer, whose account of his experi- 
ences during the ensuing six months forms the 
main portion of the present volume. Wafer 



INTRODUCTION 16 



and his companions in the small open boats 
were nearly swamped before they reached the 
mainland shore, where they found a bark for 
which they exchanged their craft, and in this 
continued their voyage more comfortably. At 
the mouth of the Santa Maria River, a Spanish 
cruiser was watching for buccaneers going or 
coming by the Isthmus route, and so they sailed 
by, to a creek where they landed May i, 1681. 
Twenty-three days later, after a series of mis- 
haps, one of which disabled Wafer so badly that 
he had to be left in the care of some friendly 
Indians, thirty-nine of the party reached the 
north coast, where they were taken aboard a 
buccaneer vessel which chanced to be anchored 
there. One of Wafer's companions who com- 
pleted the journey with the main party was 
William Dampier, who afterward published 
an account of his voyages. He gave a 
detailed account of this march, which supple- 
ments the narrative of Wafer with so little 
duplication that it seems certain that the two 
authors were closely associated while writing 
their respective books. The circumstances 
under which they wrote will be explained 
toward the end of this Introduction. 

After the departure of the party of Dampier 
and Wafer from Drake's Island in April, 1681, 
the main body under Captain Sharp continued 
their voyage, meeting with various prizes. 
Aboard one of these, taken in August, they 
found letters which stated that the Spaniards 
had captured one of Wafer's companions, a 
fellow who tired of walking and dropped behind 



16 INTRODUCTION 



during the third day's march, and that the rest 
of the party had been forced to fight its way 
against both Spaniards and Indians entirely 
across the Isthmus, a detail which does not 
agree with the accounts of either Dampier or 
Wafer. Sharp and his fellow- voyagers, about 
the first of September, decided to leave the 
Pacific. Missing the Strait of Magellan, they 
were blown southward into the region of ice- 
bergs, through which they passed safely, and 
celebrated Christmas while northward bound 
in the Atlantic. Barbados was sighted January 
28, 1682, but the appearance of a British 
cruiser in the harbor led them to keep on to 
Antigua, where they sent ashore for tobacco 
and permission to enter the port. The latter 
was flatly refused, and so they agreed to give 
the vessel to those of the company who had 
gambled away all their gains, while the others 
were set quietly ashore. 

One of Sharp's companions, Basil Ringrose, 
took passage on a ship from Antigua to London, 
where he arrived in March, 1682. He found 
the town full of gossip about the buccaneers. 
Exquemeling's account of Henry Morgan's 
exploits, originally published in Dutch in 1678, 
had become more widely known after the ap- 
pearance of the Spanish edition in 168 1. An 
English version was in demand, and soon 
appeared with the title: Bucaniers of America: 
Or, a true Account of the Most remarkable Assaults 
Committed of late years upon the Coasts of The West- 
Indies. . . . Written originally in Dutch, 
thence translated into Spanish, Now faithfully ren- 



INTRODUCTION 17 



dred into English. (London : printed for William 
Crooke, 1684.)* Some of the buccaneers who 
were living respectably in London took offense at 
statements which appeared in Crooke's edition, 
and they were perhaps responsible for another 
version of Exquemeling's book which was 
entitled: The History of the Bucaniers. 
Made English from the Dutch Copy, very much Cor- 
rected, from the Errours of the Original, by the 
Relations of some English Gentlemen, that then 
resided in those Parts. Den Engelseman is een 
Duyvil voor een Mensch. (London, Printed for 
Tho. Malthus, 1684.) f The corrections in this 
version, as a comparison of the collations 
suggests, consisted principally in omissions. 
Another book which came out this year to sup- 
ply the popular demand was edited by Philip 
Ayres with the title: The Voyages and Adven- 
tures of Capt. Barth. Sharp And others. Published 
by P. A. Esq. (London, 1684.)^; This volume 
contained a diary of Sharp's voyage, probably 
abstracted from the captain's log-book, which 
was printed more fully on pages 1-55 of A Col- 
lection of Original Voyages. . . . Published by 
Capt. William Hacke. (London, printed for James 
Knapton, 1699.)** Crooke meanwhile had 
secured from Ringrose a much more detailed 
account of his voyage with Sharp, and pub- 

* Small quarto. Title ; 5 11. "To the Reader ; ' ' text, pp. 
1-115, 1-151, 1-124; 611. "Table;" and 9 plates. 

t Small octavo. Title; 11 11. "To the Reader," poetical 
dedication to Morgan, etc. ; text, pp. 1-192 ; and 2 plates. 

% Small octavo. Title; 11 11. "Preface;" text, pp. 1-172. 

** Small octavo. Title; 7 11. "Index," etc.; text, pp. 1-45, 
1-100, 1-53 ; 1 1. advertisement ; and 6 plates. 



18 INTRODUCTION 



lished this as the second volume, or Part IV., 
of the Bucaniers of America,* early in 1685. 
About the same time, Crooke issued a second 
and cheaper edition of the first volume, f Ex- 
tracts from all of these books will be found 
in the notes to Wafer's narrative in the present 
volume. 

Wafer, having completed the sojourn in the 
Darien country which he describes in the nar- 
rative reprinted herewith, rejoined Dampier and 
the rest of the party with whom he had started 
to cross the Isthmus. During the autumn of 
168 1, he cruised about the Caribbean with one 
division of the party, until the approach of the 
season for hurricanes led him to go north to 
Virginia, where he found Dampier and others 
of the South Sea men who had preceded him. 
A few months of plantation life, even with such 
enlivenment as was afforded by petty piracy 
along the Carolina coast, turned the thoughts 
of the buccaneers toward the scenes of their 
distant adventures. In August, 1683, Captain 
John Cook appeared in Chesapeake Bay, where 
he gathered fifty -two congenial spirits, among 
them Dampier and Wafer, aboard his ship 
The Revenge, and then set sail for the southward. 
Off the Guinea coast they forcibly exchanged 
craft with the crew of a new forty-gun vessel, 
which they declared very fit for their purposes, 
being " well stored with good Brandy, Water, 

* Small quarto. Title; 7 11. "Preface;" text, pp. 1-212; 
12 11. "Table;" 2 plates. 

t Small quarto, as the first edition. Title; 5 11. "To the 
Reader;" text, pp. 1— (55), 1-80, 1-84; 6 11. "Table;" and 9 
plates. 



INTRODUCTION 19 



Provisions, and other necessaries." Equipped 
to their liking 1 , they went around the Horn into 
the Pacific. After a series of profitable adven- 
tures, the party divided in August, 1685, the 
majority, one of whom was Dampier, crossing 
to the East Indies, while the rest, including 
Wafer, remained in American waters. For two 
years longer they wandered up and down the 
coast, taking a living as they could find it. 
Late in 1687, they decided to return to the At- 
lantic, and after a trying voyage were once 
more in the West Indies. Piracy was now an 
unprofitable risk thereabouts, and so the crew 
split up, Wafer getting passage to Philadelphia. 
After a short visit in Virginia, he returned 
home to London. There he was soon rejoined 
by Dampier, who had completed the circum- 
navigation of the globe by way of the Cape of 
Good Hope. 

The tales of these returning voyagers reawak- 
ened interest in their doings and, to meet the 
demand of public and publishers, Dampier wrote 
his New Voyage around the World. The volume 
appeared in 1697, and ran through four editions 
before the end of the century. This success led 
him to write two other volumes, which together 
form the basis for a set of his Voyages. Dam- 
pier's first volume was illustrated with five 
maps, one of which represented the Isthmus of 
Darien, with a dotted line showing his route 
across in 1681 and the different stopping-places 
during that journey. This map was afterwards 
used to illustrate Wafer's narrative, and it is 
reproduced in the present volume. In examin- 



20 INTRODUCTION 



ing it, the reader should recollect that the route 
marked on it is that of Dampier and the main 
body of his companions, and not that traversed 
a few months later by Wafer. 

While Dampier was writing his first book, a 
scheme was being promoted for establishing a 
Scotch colony on the northern Darien coast. 
Wide-spread public curiosity, rivaling that of 
the South Sea and Mississippi bubbles, was 
stirred up throughout Britain. Wafer, than 
whom no one was more familiar with the coun- 
try about which every one was talking, took 
advantage of the opportunity and, in 1699, pub- 
lished an account of his observations and experi- 
ences in Darien.* This was the first edition of 
the work which is reprinted in the present 
volume. Wafer's book was by no means depend- 
ent upon the mischances of the Scotch settle- 
ment for success. A second edition f ap- 
peared in 1704, the special occasion being the 
interest aroused by reports of a lucky raid on 
the gold mines on the south side of the Isthmus, 
of which it contains an account written by one 
of the raiders named Davis. This edition also 
included ' ' An Additional Account of several 
Beasts, Birds, Fishes, Reptiles, &c. and partic- 
ularly many Trees, Shrubs, and Herbs, with 
their Names, Use, Vertues, &c. as has been 
observ'd in those Parts. Communicated by a 
Member of the Royal Society. ' ' This fills pages 

* Octavo. Title, as on page 27; 3 11. dedication, etc.; text, 
pp. 1-224; 7 11- " Index;" 1 1. " Books printed for James 
Knapton;" map and 3 plates. 

t Title; 7 11. dedication and preface; text, pp. 1-283; 6 11. 
" Index ;" map and 3 plates. 



INTRODUCTION 21 



180-262, and its value may be guessed from the 
quotations which are given among the notes to 
Wafer's text. Wafer's narrative was printed 
again in 1729, as pages 263-463 of the third 
volume of Dampier's Voyages. 

The Dutch were quick to appreciate the value 
of Wafer's narrative, as well as its proper rela- 
tion to Dampier's Voyages, for it forms a part of 
Sewel's translation of Dampier, the second 
volume of which has the title : Tweede Deel van 
William Dampiers Reystogt. . . . Midsgaders 
een Naauwkeurige beschryving van Darien Of de 
Land-engte van Amerika, . . . beschreeven 
door Lionel Wafer. A lies uyt het Engelsch vertaald 
door W. Sewel. (In'sGravenhage. By Abraham 
de Hond, 1700.) Wafer has also a separate 
title, a close translation from the first English 
title, with the addition of two lines, ' ' Uyt het 
Engelsche vertaald door W. Sewel," and the 
imprint, " Gravenhage, 1700;" so that this 
part of the volume, which has its own pagina- 
tion,* may have been sold separately. Sewel's 
translation was reprinted at Amsterdam in 
1716-17. 

A French version, with the title: Les Voyages 
de Lionnel Waffer contenant une description tres- 
exacte de V Isthme de V Amerique & de toute la 
nouvelle Espagne, translated by M. de Montirat, 
" Interprete des Langues," was published at 
Paris, "chez Claude Cellier," in i7o6.f The 

*Title; 1 1. " Aan den Leezer;" text, pp. 5-88; 4 11. "Blad- 
wyzer ; ' ' map and 3 plates. 

t Small octavo. Title ; 3 preliminary 11. ; text, pp. 1-398 ; 
2 11. " Privilege du Roy; " 2 maps. 



22 INTRODUCTION 



translation follows the first edition of Wafer, 
with some slight condensation, including the 
elimination of the Scotch vocabulary, and ends 
on page 253. The remainder of the volume 
contains a narrative of the adventures of the 
captain of a Spanish vessel, the Tartan men- 
tioned in the note on page 64, who had been cap- 
tured and taken to London, where Wafer is said 
to have met him while he was awaiting the 
arrival of money from Peru with which to pay 
his ransom. This Spanish captain's narrative 
follows Wafer's account without any break in 
the text or any explanation of the fact that it 
is not translated from the same English volume 
as the preceding account. 

Another French edition, Voyage de M r . Wafer, 
Oil V on trouve la description de V Isthme de V Ame- 
rique, was published " Chez la Veuve de Paul 
Marret," Amsterdam, 1714.* This is a different 
translation of Wafer, including the Scotch 
vocabulary, and also containing the Spanish 
captain's narrative. 

In 1707 a German translation appeared as a 
part of the Dritter Theil Der Reisen Herrn Wilhelm 
Dampier . . . Welchem beygefiiget worden : 
Herrn Leonel Wafers, eines Englischen Chirurgi, 
Reise und Beschreibung des Isthmi oder Erd-Enge 
Darien in America*. A us der Englischen in die 
Frantzbsische, und aus dieser in die Hoch- Teutsche 
Sprache ubersetzet. (Franckfurt und Leipzig, Bey 
Michael Rohrlachs seel. Wittib und Erben, 
1707.) Wafer occupies pages 200-421, with a 
map and the three plates. The Scotch vocabu- 

* Small octavo. Title; text, pp. 3-262; 7 11. "Table." 



INTRODUCTION 23 



lary is given, but not the Spanish captain's 
narrative. 

There are references to a Swedish edition, by 
S. Oedmann, Upsala, 1789, in octavo, but no 
copy of this has as yet been located by the 
editor of this reprint. 

A Spanish translation, made from one of the 
French texts, by Sr. D. Vicente Restrepo, was 
published in the Bogota 1 (Colombia) Reportorio 
Colombiano in 1880-81. Sr. Restrepo after- 
wards secured a copy of the original English 
edition, with which he carefully compared his 
translation. The revised text was published 
with the title : Viajes de Lionel Wafer al Istmo del 
Darien (cuatro meses entre los indios) traducidos y 
anotados por Vicente Restrepo. (Bogota, 1888.)* 
The translation gives the descriptive portions 
of Wafer's volume in full, the narrative of 
travel being much condensed. Sr. Restrepo 
annotated the text with many extremely valu- 
able notes, which have been freely used in the 
present edition. Those marked with his initials 
(V. R.), are taken directly from his pages. In 
addition to these notes, his volume contains an 
account of a trip through the country described 
by Wafer, made in 1887 by the son of the trans- 
lator, D. Ernesto Restrepo. This description 
of the country as it now is, affords the most 
convincing evidence of the accuracy and reli- 
ability of Wafer's observations. 

The present volume contains an exact reprint 
of the first edition of Wafer's New Voyage, as it 

* Octavo. 2 titles; pp. v-xx, "Prologo," etc.; text, pp. 
1 -129; 1 1. " Indice." 



24 INTRODUCTION 



appeared in London in 1699, with the exception 
of some obvious typographical errors, most of 
which were desired to be corrected in the ' ' Er- 
rata ' ' at the end of the preface in the original 
edition. The notes at the bottom of the pages 
and those within brackets at the sides have been 
added by the editor of the present reprint. 
They are for the most part extracts from the 
writings of Wafer's companions, which explain 
or add to the information given in the text. 
The illustrations are photographic reproductions 
of those in the 1699 edition, excepting the 
frontispiece map, which is a copy from the 
British Admiralty chart of the Darien country. 
This map provides a better commentary than 
any notes upon the geographical statements 
made by Wafer. 

George Parker Winship. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 

LONDON: JAMES KNAPTON, 1699 



Reprinted from a copy of the original edition in the possession 
of the Publishers. 



ANEW 

VOYAGE 

AND 

DESCRIPTION 

OF TBE 

Iflhmus oi America, 

Giving an Account of the 

Author's Abode there. 

The Form and Make of the Country , 
the Coafis, Hills, Rivers, &c. Woods, 
Soil, Weather, &c. Trees, Fruit, Beafts, 
Birds, Fijh, &c. 

The Indian Inhabitants , their Features , 
Complexion, 8rc. their Manners, Cu- 
ftoms. Employments, Marriages, Feafts, 
Hunting, Computation, Language, &c. 

With Remarkable Occurrences in the South 
Sea, and elfewhere. 



By LIONEL WAFER. 



gUutotefttoitf) ftftctal Copperplate?. 



LONDON; 

Printed for 3|ame0 Itnapton , at the Crown in 

St. Paul's Church yard, 16pp. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 29 



[iii] To his Excellency, the Right Honourable 
Henry Earl of Romney, 

Vifcount Sidney of Sheppey, and Baron of 
Milton in the County of Kent, Lord Lieutenant 
of the fame, and of the City 0/ Canterbury , Vice- 
Admiral of the fame, Lord Warden of the Cinque 
Ports, Conftable of Dover Caflle, M after of the 
Ordinance, Lieutenant- General of His Majefly' s 
Forces, Collonel of His Majefly 's own Regiment 
of Foot Guards, One of the Lords of His Majefly 's 
Bed- Chamber, One of the Lords of His Majefly 's 
mos? Honourable Privy Council ; and One of the 
Lords Juftices of England, during the Ab fence 
of His Majefty. 

This Relation of his Travels, [iv] And 
Defcription of the LSTHMUS of AMERICA, 
is humbly Dedicated by 

His Excellency 's 

Mod Devoted 

Humble Servant, 

Lionel Wafer. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 31 



[v] To the Reader. 

TH O' this Book bears partly the Name of 
\&OX!&QCSt y et I /hall here acquaint you 
be/ore-hand, as I have hinted in the Book 
it /el/, That you are not to expect any Thing like 
a Compleat /ourfial, or Hijlorical Account o/ all 
Occurrences in the Scene o/ my Travels. My 
principal Defign was to give what Defcription / 
could 0/ the HCtbmUS of 2>atten, where I was 
left among the wild [vi] Indians : And as for the 
preceding and fubfequent Relations, I have, in 
them, only briefly reprefented the Courfe of my 
Voyages; without particularizing, any further, 
than to fpeak of a few Things I thought more 
efpecially remarkable. I cannot pretend to fo great 
an Exaclne/s, but that I may have fail'd in fome 
Circum fiances, efpecially in the Defcriptional 
Part\ which I leave to be made up by the longer 
Experience, and more accurate Obfervations of 
Others. But I have been as careful as I could: 
And tho there are fome Matters of Fadt that will 
feem ftrange, yet I have been more efpecially 
careful in thefe, to fay nothing but what, accord- 
ing to the beft of my Knowledge, is the very 
Truth. / [vii] was but Young when I was 
abroad, and I kept no Journal; fo that I may be 



32 WAFER'S DARIEN 

difpenc'd with as to Defects and Failings of left 
moment. Yet I have not trujled altogether to my 
own Memory; but fome Things I committed to 
Writing, long before I returned to England; and 
have jince been frequently comparing and rectifying 
my Notices, by Difcourfing fuch of my Fellow- 
Travellers as I have met with in London. And 
'tis even my Defire that the Reader, as he has 
Opportunity ■, would confult any of them, as to 
thefe Particulars; being not fond of having him 
take them upon my fingle Word. He will do both 
himfelf and me a Kindnefi in it; if he will be fo 
Candid, withal, as to make me fuch Allowance 
[viii] as the Premif es call for : He will eafe me 
of the Odium of Singularity; and himfelf of 
Doubt, or a Knowledge, it may be, too defective. 



Tl,e Nortli Sea &<i/ljfl}uls&inut 
afAM.Z.B.1 CA.U tin w-rtsfTortdbel 














,4/- X!*&? NO H TH 

'Eeinr-JtthlHilld.S^-. 






^l ^Itap of the 
IS THJH US of 

Dariezt, 
SC 

\3-ay cf Panama 



The S o ttth S zjl [.t&f* 



WAFER'S DARIEN 33 



[i] Mr. Wafer's Voyages ; and Defcription of 
the Ifthmus of America. 

MY firft going abroad was in the Great Ann The A.'s 
of London, Capt. Zachary Browne Com- L*- e -> Au - 
mander, bound for Bantam in the Ifle of Vo yage. 
Java, in the Eaft-Indies, in the Year 1677. I 
was in the Service of the Surgeon of the Ship ; 
but being then very young, I made no great 
Obfervations in that Voyage. My Stay at 
Bantam was not above a Month, we being fent Bantam. 
from thence to Jamby in the Ifle of Sumatra. At 
that time there was a War between the Malayans 
of Iihor on the Promontory of Malacca, and thofe lihor. 
of Jamby; and a Fleet of Proe's from Iihor e Malacca - 
block 'd up the Mouth of the River of Jamby. Jamby. 
The Town of Jamby is about 100 Mile up the 
River: [2] But within 4 or 5 Mile of the Sea, it 
hath a Port Town on the River, confifting of 
about 15 or 20 Houfes, built on Pofts, as the 
Fafhion of that Country is : The Name of this 
Port is Quolla; though this feems rather an Quolla. 
Appellative than a proper Name, for they gener- 
ally call a Port Quolla : And 'tis ufual with our 
Englifh Seamen in thofe Parts, when they have 
been at a Landing-place, to fay they have been 
at the Quolla, calling it fo in imitation of the 



34 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Barcadero. 



The A.'s 2d 
Voyage. 



Jamaica. 



Capt. 
Bucken- 
hanis 
hard For- 
tune. 



Natives ; as the Portuguefe call their Landing- 
places, Barcadero 's. This War was fome hin- 
drance to our Trade there ; and we were forc'd to 
flay about 4 Months in the Road, before we 
could get in our Lading of Pepper : And thence 
we return'd to Bantam, to take in the reft of 
our Lading. While I was afhore there, the 
Ship fail'd for England : So I got a Paffage home 
in another Ship, The Bombay, Capt. White Com- 
mander; who being Chief Mate, fucceeded 
Capt. Bennet, who dy'd in the Voyage. 

I arrived in England again in the Year 1679. 
and after about a Months ftay, I entred my felf 
on a Second [3] Voyage, in a Veffel commanded 
by Capt. Buckeitham, bound for the WeJl-Indies. 
I was there alfo in the Service of the Surgeon of 
the Ship: But when we came to Jamaica, the 
Seafon of Sugars being not yet come, the Cap- 
tain was willing to make a fhort Voyage, in the 
mean while, to the Bay of Campeachy, to fetch 
Log- wood: But having no mind to go further 
with him, I ftaid in Jamaica. It proved well 
for me that I did fo ; for in that Expedition, the 
Captain was taken by the Spaniards, and carried 
Prifoner to Mexico: Where one RuJJel faw him, 
who was then alfo a Prifoner there, and after 
made his Efcape. He told me he faw Capt. 
Buckenham, with a Log chain 'd to his Leg, and 
a Basket at his Back, crying Bread about the 
Streets for a Baker his Mafter. The Spaniards 
would never confent to the Ranfoming him, tho' 
he was a Gentleman who had Friends of a con- 
fiderable Fortune, and would have given them 
a very large Sum of Mony. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 35 

I had a Brother in Jamaica, who was imployed 
under Sir Thomas Muddiford* in his Plantation 
at the Angels : [4] And my chief Inducement in The Angels 
undertaking this Voyage was to fee him. I Plantation, 
ftaid fome time with him, and he fettled me in 
a Houfe at Port-Royal, where I followed my Port-Royal. 
Bufinefs of Surgery for fome Months. But in 
a while I met with Capt. Cook, and Capt. Linch,\ 
two Privateers, who were going out from Port- 
Royal, toward the Coaft of Cartagena, and took Cartagena. 
me along with them. We met other Privateers 
on that Coaft ; but being parted from them by 
ftrefs of Weather about Golde?i-IJland, in the Golden-I. 
Samballoes, we ftood away to the Bajlimento 's, Bajii- 
where we met them again, and feveral others, mentors. 
who had been at the taking of Portobel, and were Portobel. 
Rendefvouzed there. Here I firft met with Mr. 
Dampier, and was with him in the Expedition Mr. Dam- 
into the S. Seas. For in fhort, having mufter'd P ier - 
up our Forces at Golden- 1 Jland, and landed on 
the Ifthmus, we march 'd over Land, and took ijthmus* 
Santa Maria-, and made thofe Excurlions into Maria. 

the S. Seas, which Mr. Ringrofe relates in the S-S* as - 

Hift. of 
4th part of the Hijlory of the Buccaniers. the Buc. 

*Sir Thomas Modyford emigrated in 1647, to Barbados 
■where he was appointed governor in 1660. In 1664 he was 
made governor of Jamaica, a post which he held until 1667, 
when he was displaced and sent home under arrest, charged 
with ' ' making war and committing depredations and acts of 
hostility upon the subjects and territories of the king of 
Spain " — in other words, of having had too much to do with 
the buccaneers. He was committed to the Tower for a season, 
but was released and, in 1675, probably in company with 
Sir Henry Morgan, returned to Jamaica, where he died 
in 1679. 

t Probably John Cooke and Stephen Lynch. 



36 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Mr. Dam- 
pier. 

Capt. 
Sharp. 

Ijlhmus. 



The A. 

left in the 
Ijlhmus. 



His Knee 
burnt.* 



Mr. Dampier has told, in his Introduction to his 
Voyage round the World, [5] in what manner the 
Company divided with reference to Capt. Sharp. 
I was of Mr. Dampier's fide in that Matter, and 
of the number of thofe who chofe rather to 
return in Boats to the Ijlhmus, and go back 
again a toilfom Journey over Land, than ftay 
under a Captain in whom we experienc'd neither 
Courage nor Condudt. He hath given alfo an 
Account of what befel us in that Return, till 
fuch time as by the Carlefnefs of our Com- 
pany, my Knee was fo fcorch'd with Gun- 
powder, that after a few Days further March, I 
was left behind among the Wild- Indians, in the 
Ijlhmus of Darien. 

It was the 5th Day of our Journey when this 
Accident befel me; being alfo the 5th of May, 
in the Year 168 1. I was fitting on the Ground 
near one of our Men, who was drying of Gun- 
powder in a Silver Plate : But not managing it 
as he fhould, it blew up, and fcorch'd my Knee 
to that degree, that the Bone was left bare, the 
Flefh being torn away, and my Thigh burnt for 
a great way above it. I applied to it immedi- 
ately fuch Remedies as I had in my Knapfack : 
And being unwilling to be left behind my [6] 
Companions, I made hard fhift to jog on, and 

* Dampier, p. 15, says: " Our Chyrurgeon, Mr Wafer, came 
to a sad disaster here: being drying his Powder, a careless 
fellow passed by with his Pipe lighted, and set fire to his 
Powder, which blew up and scorch 'd his Knee; and reduced 
him to that condition that he was not able to march ; where- 
fore we allowed him a Slave to carry his things, being all of 
us the more concerned at the accident, because lyable our 
selves every moment to misfortune, and none to look after us 
but him." 



WAFER'S DARIEN 37 

bear them Company for a few Days; during 
which our Slaves ran away from us, and among 
them a Negro whom the Company had allow 'd 
me for my particular Attendant, to carry my 
Medicines.* He took them away with him, 
together with the reft of my Things, and 
thereby left me depriv'd of wherewithal to 
drefs my Sore ; infomuch that my Pain increaf- 
ing upon me, and being not able to trudge it 
further through Rivers and Woods, I took leave 
of my Company, and fet up my Reft among the 
Darien Indians. 

This was on the ioth Day; and there ftaid R. Gob/on. 
with me Mr. Richard Gopfon, who had ferved an 
Apprenticefhip to a Druggift in London. He 
was an ingenious Man, and a good Scholar; and 
had with him a Greek Teftament which he fre- 
quently read, and would tranflate extempore into 
Englifh to fuch of the Company as were dif- 
pos'd to hear him. Another who ftaid behind 
with me was John Hingfo?i, Mariner : They /. Hing/on. 
were both fo fatigued with the Journey, that 
they could go no further. There had been an 
Or-[7]der made among us at our firft Landing, 
to kill any who fhould flag in the Journey : But 
this was made only to terrify any from loiter- 
ing, and being taken by the Spaniards; who by 

*Dampier, p. 16, says that, during the night following the 
seventh day, ' ' these hardships and inconveniences made us 
all careless, and there was no Watch kept, (tho I believe no 
body did sleep:) So our Slaves taking this opportunity, went 
away in the night ; all but one, who was hid in some hole, 
and knew nothing of their design, or else fell asleep. Those 
that went away carried with them our Chyrurgeons Gun and 
all his Money." 



38 WAFER'S DARIEN 

Tortures might extort from them a Difcovery 
of our March.* But this rigorous Order was 
not executed; but the Company took a very 
kind Leave both of thefe, and of me. Before 
this we had loft the Company of two more of 
our Men, Robert Spratlin and William Bowman, 
who parted with us at the River Congo, the Day 
after my being fcorch'd with Gun-powder. The 
Paffage of that River was very deep, and the 
Stream violent; by which means I was born 
down the Current, for feveral Paces, to an Eddy 
in the bending of the River. Yet I got over; 
but thefe two being the hindmoft, and feeing 
with what difficulty I crofs'd the River, which 
was ftill riling, they were difcourag'd from 
attempting it, and chofe rather to flay where 
they were. Thefe two came to me; and the 
other two foon after the Company's departure 
for the North-Sea, as I fhall have occafion to 
mention ; f o that there were five of [8] us in all 
who were left behind among the Indians. 
Tax, Indians Being now forc'd to ftay among them, and 
cure the A. having no means to alleviate the Anguifh of my 
Wound, the Indians undertook to cure me ; and 
apply'd to my Knee fome Herbs, which they 
firft chew'd in their Mouths to the confiftency 
of a Pafte, and putting it on a Plantain-Leaf, 

*Dampier explains, p. 2, that, before they separated, from 
Sharp, ' ' because there were some designed to go with us that 
we knew were not well able to march, we gave out, that if 
any man faultred in the Journey over Land he must expect 
to be shot to death ; for we knew that the Spaniards would 
soon be after us, and one man falling into their hands might 
be the ruin of us all, by giving an account of our strength and 
condition: yet this would not deter 'em from going with us." 



WAFER'S DARIEN 39 

laid it upon the Sore. This prov'd fo effectual, 
that in about 20 Days ufe of this Poultefs, 
which they applied frefh every Day, I was per- 
fectly cured; except only a Weaknefs in that 
Knee, which remain 'd long after, and a Benum- 
mednefs which I fometimes find in it to this 
Day. Yet they were not altogether fo kind in 
other refpedts; for fome of them look'd on us 
very fcurvily, throwing green Plantains to us, 
as we fat cringing and fhivering, as you would 
Bones to a Dog. This was but f orry Food ; yet 
we were forc'd to be contented with it: But to 
mend our Commons, the young Indian, at whofe A kind 
Houfe we were left, would often give us fome I ndtan - 
ripe Plantains, unknown to his Neighbours; 
and thefe were a great Re-[9]frefhment to us. 
This Indian, in his Childhood, was taken a Prif- 
oner by the Spaniards-, and having liv'd fome 
time among them, he had learn'd a pretty deal 
of their Language, under the Bifhop of Panama, 
whom he ferv'd there; till finding means to 
efcape, he was got again among his own Coun- 
try-men. This was of good ufe to us; for we 
having a fmattering of Spanifh, and a little of 
the Indians Tongue alfo, by paffing their 
Country before, between both thefe, and 
with the additional ufe of Signs, we found 
it no very difficult Matter to underftand one 
another. He was truly generous and hofpitable 
toward us ; and fo careful of us, that if in the 
Day-time we had no other Provifion than a few 
forry green Plantains, he would rife in the 
Night, and go out by ftealth to the Neighbour- 
ing Plantain-walk, and fetch a Bundle of ripe 



40 WAFER'S DARIEN 

ones from thence, which he would diftribute 
among us unknown to his Country-men. Not 
that they were naturally inclin'd to ufe us thus 
roughly, for they are generally a kind and free- 
hearted People; but they had taken fome par- 
ticular Offence, upon [10] the account of our 
Friends who left us, who had in a manner awed 
the Indian Guides they took with them for the 
remainder of their Journey, and made them go 
with them very much againlt their Wills ; * the 
Severity of the Rainy Seafon being then fo 
great, that even the Indians themf elves had no 
mind for Travelling, tho' they are little curious 
either as to the Weather or Ways. 

When Gopfon, Hingfon, and I had lived 3 or 
R. Sprat im, 4 Days in this manner, the other two, Spratlin 
W. Bow- and Bowman, whom we left behind at the River 
Congo, on the 6th Day of our Journey, found 
their way to us; being exceedingly fatigued 
with rambling fo long among the wild Woods 
and Rivers without Guides, and having no other 
Suftenance but a few Plantains they found here 
and there. They told us of George Gainys 

*Dampier, p. 19, says that the party found, two young 
Indians at this place who could speak a little Spanish, and 
who offered to act as guides, provided the white men would 
wait until the second day before starting. " But we thought 
our selves nearer the North Sea than we were, and proposed 
to go without a Guide, rather than stay here a whole 
day: . . . The tenth [i. e., the next] day we got up 
betimes, resolving to march, but the Indians opposed it as 
much as they could, but seeing they could not perswade us to 
stay, they came with us. ' ' The Indians were probably anxious 
to secure the hatchets with', which the Englishmen usually 
rewarded their guides, but they were evidently provoked by 
the haste of the white men, which no doubt interfered with 
their plans for this day. 



man. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 41 

Difafler, whofe Drowning Mr. Dampier relates 

p. 17.* They faw him lie dead on the Shore G. Gamy's 

which the Floods were gone off from, with the drownm g- 

Rope twifted about him, and his Mony at his 

Neck; but they were fo fatigued, they car'd not 

to meddle with it. Thefe, after their coming 

[11] up to us, continued with us for about a 

Fortnight longer, at the fame Plantation where 

the main Body of our Company had left us ; and 

our Provifion was ftill at the fame Rate, and the 

Countenances of the Indians as ftern towards us 

as ever, having yet no News of their Friends 

whom our Men had taken as their Guides. Yet 

notwithftanding their Difguft, they ftill took 

care of my Wound; which by this time was 

pretty well healed, and I was enabled to walk 

about. But at length not finding their Men 

return as they expedted, they were out of 

Patience, and feem'd refolved to revenge on us 

the Injuries which they fuppos'd our Friends AConfult 

had done to theirs. To this end they held fre- to deftroy 

quent Confultations how they fhould difpofe of his Com _ 

us : Some were for killing us, others for keeping panions. 

* Dampier says that, the river being much swollen, ' ' at 
length we concluded to send one man over with a Line, who 
should hale over all our things first, and then get the men 
over. . . . George Gayny took the end of a Line and 
made it fast about his neck, and left the other end ashore, and 
one man stood by the Line, to clear it away to him. But 
when Gayny was in the midst of the water, the Line in draw- 
ing after him chanced to kink, or grow entangled ; and he that 
stood by to clear it away, stopt the Line, which turned Gayny 
on his back, and he that had the Line in his hand threw it all 
into the River after him, thinking he might recover himself; 
but the stream running very swift, and the man having three 
hundred Dollars at his back, was carried down, and never seen 
more by us. ' ' 



42 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Prepara- 
tions to 
kill them. 



Lacenta 
faves them ; 



and fends 
them away. 



us among them, and others for carrying us to 
the Spaniards, thereby to ingratiate themfelves 
with them. But the greateft part of them mor- 
tally hating the Spaniards, this laft Projedt was 
foon laid afide ; and they came to this Ref olu- 
tion, To forbear doing any thing to us, till fo 
much Time were expir'd as [12] they thought 
might reafonably be allow' d for the return of 
their Friends, whom our Men had taken with 
them as Guides to the North Sea-Coaft; and 
this, as they computed, would be 10 Days, reck- 
oning it up to us on their Fingers. 

The Time was now almoft expir'd, and having 
no News of the Guides, the Indians began to 
fufpedt that our Men had either murder' d them, 
or carried them away with them; and feem'd 
refolv'd thereupon to deftroy us. To this end 
they prepared a great Pile of Wood to burn us, 
on the 10th Day; and told us what we muft truft 
to when the Sun went down; for they would 
not execute us till then. 

But it fo hapned that Lacenta, their Chief, 
paffmg that way, diffuaded them from that 
Cruelty, and propofed to them to fend us down 
towards the North-fide, and two Indians with 
us, who might inform themfelves from the 
Indians near the Coaft, what was become of the 
Guides. They readily hearken 'd to this Pro- 
pofal, and immediately chofe two Men to condudt 
us to the North-fide. One [13] of thefe had 
been all along an inveterate Enemy to us ; but 
the other was that kind Indian, who was fo much 
our Friend, as to rife in the Night and get us 
ripe Plantains. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 43 

The next Day therefore we were difmifled Bad 
with our two Guides, and marched Joyfully for Travelling. 
3 Days; being well affur'd we fhould not find 
that our Men had done any hurt to their Guides. 
The firft three Days we march 'd thro' nothing 
but Swamps, having great Rains, with much 
Thunder and Lightning; and lodg'd every 
Night under the dropping Trees, upon the cold 
Ground. The third Night we lodg'd on a fmall 
Hill, which by the next Morning was become an 
Ifland : For thofe great Rains had made fuch a 
Flood, that all the low Land about it was cover' d 
deep with Water. All this while we had no 
Provifion, except a handful of dry Maiz our 
Indian Guides gave us the firfl two Days: But 
this being fpent, they return 'd home again, and 
left us to fhift for our felves. 

At this Hill we remained the fourth Day; 
and on the fifth the Waters being abated, we 
fet forward, [14] fleering North by a Pocket 
Compafs,* and marched till 6 a Clock at Night: 
At which time, we arrived at a River about 40 
foot wide, and very deep.f Here we found a 
Tree fallen crofs the River, and fo we believed 
our Men had pafb that way ; % therefore here we 

* When the main body started off from the village where 
Wafer remained, Dampier, p. 19, says that " we often look' d 
on our Pocket Compasses, and shewed them to the Guides, 
pointing at the way that we wou'd go, which made them shake 
their heads, and say, they were pretty things, but not conve- 
nient for us. ' ' Any one who has tried to follow a compass-line 
through broken country will appreciate the feelings of the 
guides who knew the easier route following the lay of the land. 

tCanaza River. — V. R. 

% Dampier, p. 20, says that, on the fourth day after leaving 
Wafer at the Indian settlement, the guides " carry 'd us to a 



44 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



They are 
bewilder'd. 



Bowman 
like to be 
drown'd. 



fat down, and confulted what courfe we fhould 
take. 

And having debated the Matter, it was con- 
cluded upon to crofs the River, and feek the 
Path in which they had travelled : For this River 
running fomewhat Northward in this place, we 
perfwaded our felves we were paft the main 
Ridge of Land that divided the North part of 
the IJlhmus from the South; and confequently 
that we were not very far from the North Sea. 
Beiides, we did not confider that the great Rains 
were the only caufe of the fudden rifmg and 
falling of the River; but thought the Tide 
might contribute to it, and that we were not 
very far from the Sea. We went therefore over 
the River by the help of the Tree : But the Rain 
had made it fo frippery, that 'twas with great 
difficulty that we could get over it aflride, for 
there was no [15] walking on it: And tho' four 
of us got pretty well over, yet Bowman, who was 
the laft, Dipt off, and the Stream hurried him 
out of fight in a moment, fo that we concluded 
he was Drown'd. To add to our Affliction for 
the lofs of our Confort, we fought about for a 
Path, but found none ; for the late Flood had 
fill'd all the Land with Mud and Oaze, and 
therefore fince we could not find a Path, we 
returned again, and paffed over the River on 
the fame Tree by which we crofs' d it at firft ; 
intending to pafs down by the fide of this River, 

Tree that stood on the Bank of the River, and told us if we 
could fell that Tree cross it, we might pass ; if not, we could 
pass no further. Therefore we set two of the best Ax-men 
that we had, who fell'd it exactly cross the River, and the 
boughs just reached over; on this we passed very safe." 



WAFER'S DARIEN 45 

which we ftill thought difcharged it felf into 
the North Sea. But when we were over, and 
had gone down with the Stream a quarter of a 
Mile, we efpy'd our Companion fitting on the 
Bank of the River; who, when we came to him, 
told us, that the violence of the Stream hurry'd 
him thither, and that there being in an Eddy, 
he had time to confider where he was ; and that 
by the help of fome Boughs that hung in the 
Water, he had got out. This Man had at this 
time 400 pieces of Eight at his Back : He was a 
weakly Man, a Taylor by Trade. 

[16] Here we lay all Night; and the next Great 
Day, being the 5 th of our prefent Journey, we Hardfhips. 
march' d further down by the fide of the River, 
thro' thickets of hollow Bamboes and Brambles, 
being alfo very weak for want of Food: But 
Providence fuffer'd us not to Perifh, tho' Hun- 
ger and Wearinefs had brought us even to 
Death's door: For we found there a Maccaw Maccaw- 
Tree, which afforded us Berries, of which we berries. 
eat greedily; and having therewith fomewhat 
fatisfied our Hunger, we carried a Bundle of 
them away with us, and continued our March 
till Night. 

The next Day being the 6th, we marched till They are 
4 in the Afternoon, when we arrived at another befet with 
River, which join'd with that we had hitherto 
coafted; and we were now inclos'd between 
them, on a little Hill at the Conflux of them. 
This laft River was as wide and deep as the 
former; fo that here we were put to a Non-plus, 
not being able to find means to Ford either of 
them, and they being here too wide for a Tree 



46 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



They 
miflake 
their way. 



Violent 
Rains. 



Great 
Floods. 



to go acrofs, unlefs a greater Tree than we were 
able to cut down; having no Tool [17] with us 
but a Macheat or long Knife. This laft River 
alfo we fet by the Compafs, and found it run 
due North : Which confirmed us in our Miftake, 
that we were on the North fide of the main 
Ridge of Mountains; and therefore we refolv'd 
upon making two Bark-logs,* to float us down 
the River, which we unanimoufly concluded 
would bring us to the North Sea Coaft. The 
Woods aiforded us hollow Bamboes fit for our 
purpof e ; and we cut them into proper lengths, 
and tied them together with Twigs of a Shrub 
like a Vine, a great many on the top of one 
another. 

By that time we had finifhed our Bark-logs it 
was Night, and we took up our Lodging on a 
fmall Hill, where we gathered about a Cart-load 
of Wood, and made a Fire, intending to fet out 
with our Bark-logs the next Morning. But not 
long after Sun-fet, it fell a Raining as if Heaven 
and Earth would meet ; which Storm was accom- 
panied with horrid Claps of Thunder, and fuch 
flafhes of Lightning, of a Sulpherous fmell, that 
we were almoft ftifled in the open Air. 

[18] Thus it continued till 12 a Clock at Night ; 
when to our great Terror, we could hear the 
Rivers roaring on both fides us; but 'twas fo 
dark, that we could fee nothing but the Fire we 

* This was the ordinary name in the South Sea for any sort 
of a raft. They were very common, and of all sizes, from the 
two-logs on which the fisherman paddled about, sitting astride 
in the water, to the large double-deck craft which carried 
cargoes of grain and wine from the ports of Chile and Peru 
to Panama, sailing^before the steady northerly winds. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 47 

had made, except when a flafh of Lightning 
came. Then we could fee all over the Hill, and 
perceive the Water approaching us; which in 
lefs than half an hour carried away our Fire. 
This drove us all to our fhifts, every Man feek- 
ing fome means to fave himfelf from the threat- 
ning Deluge. We alfo fought for fmall Trees 
to climb: For the place abounded with great 
Cotton Trees, of a prodigious bignefs from the 
Root upward, and at leaft 40 or 50 foot clear 
without Branches, fo that there was no climbing 
up them. 

For my own part, I was in a great Confterna- The A. 
tion, and running to fave my Life, I very oppor- climbs a 
tunely met with a large Cotton Tree, which by 
fome accident, or thro' Age, was become rotten, 
and hollow on one fide ; having a hole in it at 
about the height of 4 foot from the ground. I 
immediately got up into it as well as I could : 
And in the Cavity I found [19] a knob, which 
ferved me for a Stool; and there I fat down 
almoft Head and Heels together, not having 
room enough to fhand or fit upright. In this 
Condition I fat wifhing for Day: But being 
fatigued with Travel, though very hungry 
withal, and cold, I fell afleep: But was foon 
awakned by the noife of great Trees which 
were brought down by the Flood; and came 
with fuch force againft the Tree, that they made 
it fhake. 

When I awoke, I found my Knees in the He is befet 
Water, though the loweft part of my hollow wlth the 
Trunk was, as I faid, 4 foot above the ground; 
and the Water was running as fwift, as if 'twere 



48 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



The Floods 
go off. 



He meets 
again with 
his Compan- 
ions. 



in the middle of the River. The Night was ftill 
very dark, but only when the flafhes of Light- 
ning came: Which made it fo dreadful and 
terrible, that I forgot my Hunger, and was 
wholly taken up with praying to God to fpare 
my Life. While I was Praying and Meditating 
thus on my fad Condition, I faw the Morning 
Star appear, by which I knew that Day was at 
hand : This cheared my drooping Spirits, and in 
[20] lefs than half an hour the Day began to 
dawn, the Rain and Lightning ceas'd, and the 
Waters abated, infomuch that by that time the 
Sun was up, the Water was gone off from my 
Tree. 

Then I ventured out of my cold Lodging ; but 
being ftiff and the Ground flippery, I could 
f carce ftand : Yet I made a f hif t to ramble to 
the Place where we had made our Fire, but 
found no Body there. Then I call'd out aloud, 
but was anfwer'd only with my own Eccho; 
which ftruck fuch Terror into me, that I fell 
down as dead, being opprefs'd both with Grief 
and Hunger ; this being the 7th Day of our Faft, 
fave only the Maccaw-berries before related. 

Being in this Condition, def pairing of Comfort 
for want of my Conforts, I lay fome time on the 
wet Ground, till at laft I heard a Voice hard by 
me, which in fome fort revived me; but efpe- 
cially when I faw it was Mr. Hingfon, one of my 
Companions, and the reft found us prefently 
after: Having all fav'd themf elves by climbing 
fmall Trees. We greeted each o-[2i]ther with 
Tears in our Eyes, and returned Thanks to God 
for our Deliverance. 



WAFER'S DARIBN 49 

The firft thing we did in the Morning was to 
look after our Bark-logs or Rafts, which we had 
left tied to a Tree, in order to profecute our 
Voyage down the River; but coming to the 
Place where we left them, we found them funk 
and full of Water, which had got into the hollow 
of the Bamboes, contrary to our Expectation ; 
for we thought they would not have admitted 
fo much as Air, but have been like large Blad- 
ders full blown : But it feems there were Cracks 
in them which we did not perceive, and perhaps 
made in them by our Carelefnefs in working 
them; for the Veffels made of thefe Hollow 
Bamdoe's, are wont to hold Water very well. 

This was a new Vexation to us, and how to In danger 
proceed farther we knew not ; but Providence of £ oin 2 
ftill directed all for the better: For if we had Enemies 
gone down this River, which we afterwards 
underftood to be a River that runs into the 
River of Cheapo, and fo towards the Bay of River of 
Panama and the South Sea, it would have carried Cheapo* 
us [22] into the midft of our Enemies the Span- 
iards, from whom we could expect no Mercy. 

The Neighbourhood of the Mountains, and 
fteepnefs of the Defcent, is the caufe that the 
Rivers rife thus fuddenly after thefe violent 
Rains ; but for the fame reafon they as fuddenly 
fall again. 

But to return to my Story, being thus fruftrate 
of our Delign of going down the Stream, or of 
croffing either of thefe Rivers, by reafon of the 
linking of our Bark-logs, we were glad to think 
of returning back to the Indian Settlement, and 

* Now called the Chepo, or Bayano. 



50 WAFER'S DARIEN 

They are Coafted up the River fide in the fame Track we 

forc'd to came down by. As our Hunger was ready to 
return 

carry our Eyes to any Objedt that might afford 

us fome Relief, it hapned that we efpied a Deer 
faft afleep: Which we defigned if poffible to 
get, and in order to it we came fo very near, that 
we might almoft have thrown our felves on him : 
But one of our Men putting the Muzle of his 
Gun clofe to him, and the Shot not being 
wadded, tumbled out, juft before the Gun went 
off, and did the Deer no hurt; but ftarting up 
t the noife, [23] he took the River and fwam 
over. As long as our way lay by the River fide, 
we made a f hif t to keep it well enough : But 
being now to take leave of the River, in order 
to feek for the Indians Habitation, we were much 
at a lofs. This was the Eighth Day, and we 
had no Suftinence befide the Maccaw- Berries we 
had got, and the Pith of a Biddy-Tree we met 
with, which we fplit and eat very favourly. 

After a little Confideration what courfe to 
fteer next, we concluded it beft to follow the 
Track of a Pecary or Wild- Hog, hoping it might 
bring us to fome old Plantain Walk or Potato 
Piece, which thefe Creatures often refort to, to 
look for Food: This brought us, according to 
our Expectation, to an old Plantation, and in 
fight of a new one. But here again Fear over- 
whelmed us, being between two ftraits, either 
They are in to ftarve or venture up to the Houfes of the 
fear of the Indians, whom being fo near, we were now 
afraid of again, not knowing how they would 
receive us. But fmce there was no avoiding it, 
it was concluded that one fhould go up to the 



WAFER'S DARIEN 51 

Houfe, while the reft ftaid behind to [24] fee 
the Iffue. In conclufion I went to the Planta- 
tion, and it proved the fame that we came from. 
The Indians were all amazed to fee me, and 
began to ask many Queftions : But I prevented 
them by falling into a Swoon, occafion'd by the 
heat of the Houfe, and the fcent of Meat that 
was boyling over the Fire. The Indians were The Indians 
very officious to help me in this Extremity, and receive them 
when I revived, they gave me a little to eat. n y " 
Then they enquired of me for the other four 
Men, for whom they prefently fent, and brought 
all but Gob/on, who was left a little further off, 
and treated us all very kindly : For our long 
expected Guides were now returned from the 
North fide, and gave large Commendations of 
the kindnefs and generofity of our Men; by 
which means all the Indians were become now 
again our very good Friends.* The Indian, who 
was fo particularly kind to us, preceiving Mr. 
Gob/on was not yet arrived at the Plantation, 
carried out Victuals to him, and after he was a 
little. refrefh'd with that, brought him up to us. 
So that now we were all together again, and had 
a great deal of care taken of us. 

[25] Here we flayed feven Days to refrefh our 

*Dampier, p. 23, says that, when the main party went 
aboard the French privateer, " the first thing we did was to 
get such things as we could to gratifie our Indian Guides, for 
we were resolved to reward them to their hearts content. This 
we did by giving them Beads, Knives, Scissars, and Looking- 
glasses, which we bought of the Privateers Crew ; and half a 
Dollar a man from each of us ; which we would have bestowed 
in goods also, but could not get any, the Privateer having no 
more toys. ' ' 



52 WAFER'S DARIEN 

They fet felves, and then took our March again : For we 
out agam. we re defirous to get to the North Seas as foon 
as we could, and they were now more willing to 
guide us than ever before ; fince the Guides our 
Party took with them, had not only been dif- 
mifs'd civilly, but with Prefents alfo of Axes, 
Beads, &c. The Indians therefore of the Village 
where we now were, order 'd four lufty young 
Men to conduct us down again to the River, 
over which the Tree was fallen, who going now 
with a good will, carried us thither in one Day; 
whereas we were three Days the firft time in 
going thither. When we came thither, we 
marched about a Mile up the River, where lay 
a Canoa, into which we all Imbarked, and the 
Indians guided us up the fame River which we 
before, thro' miftake, had ftrove to go down. 
The Indians padled ftoutly againft the Stream 
till Night, and then we Lodged at a Houfe, 
where thefe Men gave fuch large Commenda- 
tions of our Men, who were gone to the North 
Sea, that the Mafter of the Houfe treated [26] 
•■•• ; ».; ' us after the beffc manner. The next Day we fet 
out again, with two Indians more, who made fix 
in all, to Row or Paddle us; and our Condition 
now was well altered. 

In fix Days time after this, they brought us 

to Lacenta's Houfe, who had before faved our 

Lives. 

Lacenta's This Houfe is fituated on a fine little Hill, on 

Palace. which grows the ftateliefl Grove of Cotton Trees 

Large Cot- that ever I faw. The Bodies of thefe Trees 

ton Trees. W ere generally fix foot in Diameter, nay, fome 

eight, nine, ten, eleven; for four Indians and 



WAFER'S DARIEN 53 

my felf took hand in hand round a Tree, and 
could not fathom it by three foot. Here was 
like wife a ftately Plantain Walk, and a Grove of 
other fmall Trees, that would make a pleafant 
artificial Wildernefs, if Induftry and Art were 
beflowed on it. 

The Circumference of this pleafant little 
Hill, contains at leaft ioo Acres of Land; and 
is a Peninfula of an Oval form, almoft fur- 
rounded with two great Rivers, one coming 
from the Eaft, the other from the Weft ;* which 
approaching within 40 foot of each other, at the 
front of the Penin-[2 7]fula, feparate again, 
embracing the Hill, and meet on the other fide, 
making there one pretty large River, which 
runs very fwift. There is therefore but one 
way to come in toward this Seat; which, as I 
before obferved, is not above 40 foot wide, 
between the Rivers on each fide : and 'tis fenced 
with hollow Bamboes, Popes-heads and Prickle- 
pears, fo thick fet from one fide the Neck of 
Land to the other, that 'tis impoffible for an 
Enemy to approach it. 

On this Hill live Fifty Principal Men of the 
Country, all under Lacentas Command, who is 
as a Prince over all the South part of the IJlhmus 
of Darien; the Indians both there and on the 
North fide alfo, paying him great refpedt: but 
the South fide is his Country, and this Hill his 
Seat or Palace. There is only one Canoa belong- 
ing to it, which ferves to ferry over Lacenta and 
the reft of them. 

* Perhaps at the junction of the Sabalo with the Cafiaza. The 
Mandingas tribe had its headquarters in this region. — V. R. 



54 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Lacenta 
keeps them 
with him. 



The Indians 
way of 
letting 
Blood. 



The A. 
bleeds 
Lacentds, 
Queen. 



When we were arrived at this Place, Lacenta 
difcharged our Guides, and fent them back 
again, telling us, That 'twas not poffible for us 
to Travel to the North fide at this Seafon; for 
the Rainy Seafon was now in [28] its height, 
and Travelling very bad ; but told us we fhould 
ftay with him, and he would take care of us: 
And we were forc'd to comply with him. 

We had not been long here before an Occur- 
rence happen' d, which tended much to the 
increafmg the good Opinion Lacenta and his 
People had conceiv'd of us, and brought me 
into particular Efteem with them. 

It fo happen 'd, that one of Lacenta 's Wives 
being indifpofed, was to be let Blood; which 
the Lndians perform in this manner : The Patient 
is feated on a Stone in the River, and one with 
a fmall Bow fhoots little Arrows into the naked 
Body of the Patient, up and down; fhooting 
them as faft as he can, and not mining any part. 
But the Arrows are gaged, fo that they pene- 
trate no farther than we generally thruft our 
Lancets: And if by chance they hit a Vein 
which is full of Wind, and the Blood fpurts out a 
little, they will leap and skip about, fhewing 
many Antick Geftures, by way of rejoycing 
and triumph. 

[29] I was by while this was performing on 
Lacenta 's Lady: And perceiving their Igno- 
rance, told Lacenta, That if he pleafed, I would 
fhew him a better way, without putting the 
Patient to fo much Torment. Let me fee, fays 
he ; and at his Command, I bound up her Arm 
with a piece of Bark, and with my Lancet 







IiSou-ag^/culp. 1 rl& lit* 




IJ>*v~a^jZJz>. The. Indians 



WAFER'S DARIEN 55 

breathed a Vein : But this raf h attempt had like 
to have coft me my Life. For Lacenta feeing 
the Blood iffue out in a Stream, which us'd to 
come only drop by drop, got hold of his Lance, 
and fwore by his Tooth, that if fhe did other- 
wife than well, he would have my Heart's Blood. 
I was not moved, but delired him to be patient, 
and I drew off about 12 Ounces, and bound up 
her Arm, and defired fhe might reft till the next 
Day: By which means the Fever abated, and 
fhe had not another Fit. This gained me fo 
much Reputation, that Lacenta came to me, and 
before all his Attendants, bowed, and kifs'd my 
Hand. Then the reft came thick about me, and 
fome kiffed my Hand, others my Knee, and 
f ome my Foot : After which I was taken up into 
a Ham-[3o]mock, and carried on Men's Shoul- The A. 
ders, Lacenta himfelf making a Speech in my much re " 
Praife, and commending me as much Superiour ^ ig e 
to any of their Dodtors. Thus I was carried 
from Plantation to Plantation, and lived in great 
Splendor and Repute, adminiftring both Phyfick 
and Phlebotomy to thofe that wanted. For tho' 
I loft my Salves and Plaifters, when the Negro 
ran away with my Knapfack, yet I preferv'd a 
Box of Inftruments, and a few Medicaments 
wrapt up in an Oil Cloth, by having them in 
my Pocket, where I generally carried them. 

I lived thus fome Months among the Indians, 
who in a manner ador'd me. Some of thefe 
Indians had been Slaves to the Spaniards, and 
had made their Ef capes; which I fuppofe was 
the caufe of their expreffing a deure of Baptifm : 
but more to have a European Name given them, 



56 WAFER'S DARIEN 

than for any thing they know of Chriftianity. 
He goes on During my abode with Lacenta, I often accom- 
Huntmg panied him a Hunting, wherein he took great 
Lacenta delight, here being good Game. I was one 
time, about the beginning of the dry Seafon, 
[31] accompanying him toward the South-Eaft 
Gold River, part of the Country, and we pafs'd by a River 
where the Spaniards were gathering Gold.* I 
took this River to be one of thofe which comes 
from the South-Eaft, and runs into the Gulph 
of St. Michael. When we came near the Place 
where they wrought, we ftole foftly through the 
Woods, and placing our felves behind the great 
Trees, looked on them a good while, they not 
The way of feeing us. The manner of their getting Gold 
gathering it ig as f n ows . They have little Wooden 
Difhes, which they dip foftly into the Water, 
and take it up half full of Sand, which they 
draw gently out of the Water; and at every 
dipping they take up Gold mix'd with the Sand 
and Water, more or lefs. This they fhake and 
the Sand rifeth, and goes over the Brims of the 
Difh with the Water; but the Gold fettles to 
the bottom. This done, they bring it out and 
dry it in the Sun, and then pound it in a Mor- 
tar. Then they take it out and fpread it on 
Paper, and having a Load-ftone they move that 
over it, which draws all the Iron, &c. from it, 
and then leaves the Gold [32] clean from Ore or 
Filth; and this they bottle up in Gourds or 
Calabafhes. In this manner they work during 
the dry Seafon, which is three Months; for in 

* The Balsas or one of the other southern tributaries to the 
Rio Santa Maria. — V. R. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 57 

the wet time the Gold is wafhed from the Moun- 
tains by violent Rains, and then commonly the 
Rivers are very deep ; but now in the gathering 
Seafon, when they are fallen again, they are 
not above a Foot deep. Having fpent the dry 
Seafon in gathering, they imbark in fmall 
Veff els for Santa Maria Town ; and if they meet Santa 
with good Succefs and a favourable Time, they Marta - 
carry with them, by Report, (for I learnt thefe 
Particulars of a Spaniard whom we took at Santa 
Maria under Captain Sharp) 18 or 20 thoufand The Gold 
Pound weight of Gold : But whether they gather carried to 
more or lefs, 'tis incredible to report the ftore j** r ^ 
of Gold which is yearly wafh'd down out of 
thefe Rivers. 

During thefe Progreffes I made with Lacenta, 
my four Companions ftaid behind at his Seat; 
but I had by this time fo far ingratiated my felf 
with Lacenta, that he would never go any where 
without me, and I plainly [33] perceiv'd he 
intended to keep me in this Country all the days 
of my Life ; which raifed f ome anxious Thoughts 
in me, but I conceal'd them as well as I could. 

Purfuing our Sport one Day, it hapned we 
ftarted a Pecary, which held the Indians and 
their Dogs in play the greateft part of the Day; 
till Lacenta was almoft fpent for want of Victu- 
als, and was fo troubled at his ill Succefs, that 
he impatiently wifhed for fome better way of 
managing this fort of Game. 

I now underftood their Language indifferent 
well, and finding what troubled him, I took this ' 

moves for 

opportunity to attempt the getting my Liberty Leave to 
to depart, by commending to him our Englifh depart; 



58 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



and 'tis 
granted. 



He returns 
towards 
Lacenta's, 
Houf e ; 



and arrives 
there. 



Dogs, and making an Offer of bringing him a 
few of them from England, if he would fuffer 
me to go thither for a fhort time. He demurr'd 
at this Motion a while; but at length he fwore 
by his Tooth, laying his Fingers on it, That I 
fhould have my Liberty, and for my Sake the 
other four with me ; provided I would promife 
and fwear by my Tooth, That I would return 
and marry among [34] them ; for he had made 
me a Promife of his Daughter in Marriage, but 
fhe was not then marriageable. I accepted of 
the Conditions : And he further promif ed, that 
at my return he would do for me beyond my 
Expectation. 

I returned him Thanks, and was the next Day 
difmiffed under the Convoy of feven lufty Fel- 
lows; and we had four Women to carry our 
Provifion, and my Cloaths, which were only a 
Linnen Frock and pair of Breeches. Thefe I 
faved to cover my Nakednefs, if ever I fhould 
come among Chriftians again ; for at this time I 
went naked as the Salvages, and was painted by 
their Women; but I would not fuffer them to 
prick my Skin, to rub the Paint in, as they ufe 
to do, but only to lay it on in little Specks. 

Thus we departed from the Neighbourhood of 
the South Seas, where Lacenta was Hunting, to 
his Seat or Palace, where I arrived in about 15 
Days, to the great Joy of my Conforts ; who had 
ftaid there, during this Hunting Expedition I 
made with Lacenta to the South-Eaft. 

[35] After many Salutations on both fides, and 
fome joyful Tears, I told them how I got my 
Liberty of Lacenta, and what I promifed at my 



WAFER'S DARIEN 59 

return : And they were very glad at the hopes 
of getting away, after fo long a ftay in a Savage 
Country. 

I ftayed here fome few Days till I was 
refrefhed, and then with my Companions, He and the 
marched away for the North Seas ; having a reft fet out 
ftrong Convoy of armed Indians for our Guides. ^f a gg a ° 

We travelled over many very high Mountains ; 
at laft we came to one far furpaffmg the reft in The main 
height, to which we were four Days gradually R * d g e of 
afcending, tho' now and then with fome Defcent 
between whiles. Being on the top, I perceived 
a ftrange Giddinef s in my Head ; and enquiring 
both of my Companions, and the Indians, they 
all affured me they were in the like Condition ; 
which I can only impute to the height of the 
Mountains, and the clearnefs of the Air. I take 
this part of the Mountains to have been higher 
than either that which we crofs'd with Captain 
Sharp, or that which Mr. Dampier and the reft 
of our Party crofs'd in their [36] return: For 
from this Eminence, the tops of the Mountains 
over which we paffed before, feem'd very much 
below us, and fometimes we could not fee them 
for the Clouds between ; but when the Clouds 
flew over the tops of the Hill, they would break, 
and then we could difcern them, looking as it 
were thro' fo many Loop-holes. 

I defired two Men to lie on my Legs, while I 
laid my Head over that fide of the Mountain 
which was moft perpendicular; but could fee 
no Ground for the Clouds that were between. 
The Indians carried us over a Ridge fo narrow 
that we were forced to ftraddle over on our 



60 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Indian 

Settlements. 



They come 
to the 
Sea-fide. 



Indians in 
their Gowns. 



The Indians 
fall to 
Conjuring. 



Britches; and the Indians took the fame Care of 
themfelves, handing their Bows, Arrows, and 
Luggage, from one to another. As we 
defcended, we were all cured of our Giddinefs. 

When we came to the foot of the Mountain 
we found a River that ran into the North Seas, 
and near the fide of it were a few Indian Houfes, 
which afforded us indifferent good Entertain- 
ment. Here we lay one Night, it being the firft 
Houfe I had feen for [37] fix Days; my 
Lodging, by the way, being in a Hammock made 
faft to two Trees, and my Covering a Plantain- 
Leaf. 

The next Morning we fet forward, and in two 
Days time arrived at the Sea-fide, and were met 
by 40 of the beft fort of Indians in the Country 
who congratuled our coming, and welcom'd us 
to their Houfes. They were all in their fineft 
Robes, which are long white Gowns, reaching 
to their Ancles, with Fringes at the bottom, and 
in their Hands they had Half Pikes. But of 
thefe Things, and fuch other Particulars as I 
obferv'd during my Abode in this Country, I 
fhall fay more when I come to defcribe it. 

We prefently enquired of thefe Indians, when 
they expected any Ships? They told us they 
knew not, but would enquire; and therefore 
they fent for one of their Conjurers, who imme- 
diately went to work to raife the Devil, to 
enquire of him at what time a Ship would arrive 
here; for they are very expert and skilful in 
their fort of Diabolical Conjurations. We were 
in the Houfe with them, and they [38] firft 
began to work with making a Partition with 



WAFER'S DARIEN 61 

Hammocks, that the Pawawers, for fo they call Pawaw- 
thefe Conjurers, might be by themfelves. in S* 
They continued fome time at their Exercife, 
and we could hear them make moft hideous 
Yellings and Shrieks; imitating the Voices of 
all their kind of Birds and Beafts. With their 
own Noife, they join'd that of feveral Stones 
{truck together, and of Conch-fhells, and of a 
forry fort of Drums made of hollow Bamboes, 
which they beat upon ; making a jarring Noife 
alfo with Strings faften'd to the larger Bones of 
Beafts: And every now and then they would 
make a dreadful Exclamation, and clattering all 
of a fudden, would as fuddenly make a Paufe 
and a profound Silence. But finding that after 
a confiderable Time no Anfwer was made them, 
they concluded that 'twas becaufe we were in 
the Houfe, and fo turn'd us out, and went to 
Work again. But ftill finding no return, after 
an Hour or more, they made a new Search in 

* In the preface to the second edition, Wafer took ' ' this 
Opportunity of vindicating my self to the World, concerning 
some Circumstances in the Relation I have given of the Indian 
way of Conjuring (called by them Pawawing) and of the 
White Indians [p. 134] ; at which several of the most eminent 
Men of the Nation seem'd very much startled. . . . Mr. 
Davis .... desired me, in a late Conference I had with 
him, to acquaint the World, that if the said Relation had not 
been printed off before I talk'd with him about it, he would 
himself have given a large Account of it ; declaring, That the 
Pawawing of the Indians that follow'd Don Pedro in that 
Expedition was the principal Reason that induc'd some of the 
English, who were more Superstitious than others, to leave 
the Mines much sooner than they at first intended to have 
done; because the Uneasiness in which the Indians then 
seemed to be, made them likewise apprehensive of some ex- 
traordinary Danger from the Spaniards. ' ' 



62 WAFER'S DARIEN 

our Apartment ; and finding f ome of our Cloaths 
hanging up in a Basket againft the Wall, they 
threw them out of Doors in great [39] Difdain. 
Then they fell once more to their Pawawing; 
and after a little time, they came out with their 
Anfwer, but all in a Muck-fweat ; fo that they 
firft went down to the River and wafh'd them- 
felves, and then came and defiver'd the Oracle 
The Anfwer to us, which was to this Effect: That the 10th 
made to the j) a y f rom that time there would arrive two 

Co?% 7 WKZ71 °" 

*" Ships; and that in the Morning of the 10th 
Day we fhould hear firft one Gun, and fome- 
time after that another: That one of us fhould 
die f oon after ; and that going aboard we fhould 
lof e one of our Guns : All which fell out exactly 
according to the Prediction. 

For on the 10th Day in the Morning we heard 
2 Ships the Guns, firft one, and then another, in that 

arnv'd. manner that was told us ; and one of our Guns 

or Fufees was loft in going aboard the Ships : 
For we five, and three of the Indians went off to 
the Ships in a Canoa; but as we crofs'd the Bar 
of the River, it overfet ; where Mr. Gopfon, one 
of my Conforts, was like to be drowned; and 
tho' we recover* d him out of the Water, yet he 
loft his Gun according to the Prediction. [40] I 
know not how this happen'd as to his Gun; but 
ours were all lafh'd down to the fide of the 
Canoa : And in the WesT;- Indies we never go into 
a Canoa, which a little matter overfets, but we 
make faft our Guns to the Sides or Seats : And 
I fuppofe Mr. Gopfon, who was a very careful 
and fenfible Man, had lafh'd down his alfo, tho' 
not fait enough. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 63 

Being overfet, and our Canoa turn'd up-fide 
down, we got to Shore as well as we could, and 
drag'd Mr. Gopfon with us, tho' with difficulty. 
Then we put off again, and kept more along the 
Shore, and at length ftood over to La Sounds They go off 
Key, where the two Ships lay, an Englifh Sloop, tothe Ships. 
and a Spanifh Tartan, which the Englifh had 
taken but two or three Days before. We knew 
by the make of this laft that it was a Spanifh 
Veffel, before we came up with it: But feeing 
it in Company with an Englifh one, we thought 
they muft be Conforts ; and whether the Spanifh 
Veffel fhould prove to be under the Englifh one, 
or the Englifh under that, we were refolv'd to 
put it to the venture, and get aboard, being 
quite tir'd with our [41] ftay among the wild 
India?is. The Indians were more afraid of its 
being a Veffel of Spaniards, their Enemies as 
well as ours : For this was another Particular 
they told us 10 Days before, when they were 
Pawawing, that when their Oracle inform 'd 
them that two Veffels would arrive at this time, 
they underftood by their Daemons Anfwer that 
one of them would be an Etiglifh one ; but as to 
the other, he fpake fo dubioufly, that they were 
much afraid it would be a Spanifh one, and 'twas 
not without great difficulty that we now per- 
fuaded them to go aboard with us : Which was 
another remarkable Circumftance ; fince this 
Veffel was not only a Spanifh one, but actually 
under the Command of the Spaniards at the 
time of the Pawawing, and fome Days after, till 
taken by the Englifh* 

* Dampier, who should have known, states on p. 30 that this 



64 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



They and 
the Indians 
receiv'd 
aboard. 



The A. 
wafhes off 
his Paint. 



We went aboard the Englifh Sloop, and our 
Indian Friends with us, and were received with 
a very hearty welcome. The four Englifh Men 
with me were prefently known and carefs'd by 
the Ships Crew ; but I fat a while cringing upon 
my Hams among the Indians, after their Fafhi- 
[42] on, painted as they were, and all naked but 
only about the Waift, and with my Nofe-piece 
(of which more hereafter) hanging over my 
Mouth. I was willing to try if they would know 
me in this Difguife; and 'twas the better part 
of an Hour before one of the Crew, looking 
more narrowly upon me, cry'd out, Here's our 
Dodtor ; and immediately they all congratulated 
my Arrival among them. I did what I could 
prefently to wafh off my Paint, but 'twas near a 
Month before I could get tolerably rid of it, 
having had my Skin fo long ftain'd with it, and 

Spanish tartan was captured several weeks before this, by- 
Captain Wright, who gave it to Dampier and those who came 
with him, not long after they rejoined the buccaneer fleet in 
the Gulf. Wright left them to go in search of provisions, while 
the tartan and her crew, ' ' cruising in among these Islands, at 
length we came again to La Sound's Key ; and the day before 
having met with a Jamaica Sloop that was come over on the 
Coast to trade, she went with us. It was in the evening when 
we came to an Anchor, and the next morning we fir'd two 
Guns for the Indians that lived on the Main to come aboard ; 
for by this time we concluded we should hear from our five 
men, that we left in the heart of the Country among the 
Indians, this being about the latter end of A ugust, and it 
was the beginning of May when we parted from them. 
According to our expectation the Indians came aboard, and 
brought our friends with them : Mr Wafer wore a Clout about 
him, and was painted like an Indian ; and he was some time 
aboard before I knew him. One of them, named Richard 
Cobson, dyed within 3 or 4 days after, and was buried in La 
Sound's Key." — Dampier, p. 40. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 65 

the Pigment dried on in the Sun : And when it 
did come off, 'twas ufually with the peeling off 
of Skin and all. As for Mr. Gopfon, tho' we Mr. Gop/on 
brought him alive to the Ship, yet he did not dies - 
recover his Fatigues, and his drenching in the 
Water, but having languifh'd aboard about 
three Days, he died there at La Sound's Key; 
and his Death verified another part of the 
Pawawers, Prediction. Our Indians, having The Indians 
been kindly entertain 'd aboard for about 6 or 7 return 
Days ; and many others of them, who went to a ore ' 
and fro with their Wives and [43] Children, and 
Lacenta among the reft, vifiting us about a Fort- 
night or three Weeks, we at length took leave of 
them, except 2 or 3 of them who would needs 
go with us to Windward; and we fet Sail, with They let 
the Tartan in our Company, firft to the more Sai1 toward s 
Eaftern Ifles of the Sambaloes, and then towards ageT ' 

the Coaft of Cartagene. 

But I fhall not enter into the Difcourfe of our 
Voyage after this, Mr. Dampier, who was in the 
fame Veffel, having done it particularly. It 
may fuffice juft to intimate, That I was cruifing The A.'s 
with him up and down the Weft-India Coaft and Coafting 
Iflands, partly under Capt. Wright, and partly a ^° U jJ^ 
under Capt. Yanky\ till fuch time as Capt. Yanky w ith Mr. 
left Mr. Dampier and the reft under Capt. Wright, Dampier, 
at the Ifle of Salt Tortuga, as Mr. Dampier relates 
in the 3d Chapter of his Voyage round the World, 
p. 58. I went then away with Capt. Yanky, a , nd with 
firft to the Ifle of Afh, where the French took yanky* 
us, as he relates occafionally, Chap. 4. p. 68. f 1. oi Afh. 

* Also known as " Yankey Duch," or " the Dutchman." 

t Dampier, p. 68: " M r . Cook being Quarter-master under 



66 WAFER'S DARIEN 

as alf o their turning us there af hore ; our being 
taken in by Capt. Trijiian, another French Man ; 
his carrying us [44] with him almoft to Petit- 

Captain Yanky, the second place in the Ship, according to the 
Law of Privateers, laid claim to a Ship they took from the 
Spaniards ; and such of Capt. Yanky 's Men as were so dis- 
posed, particularly all those who came with us over Land went 
aboard this Prize Ship under the new Capt. Cook. This dis- 
tribution was made at the Isle of Vacca, or the Isle of Ash, 
as we call it ; and here they parted also such Goods as they had 
•taken. But Capt. Cook having no Commission, as Captain 
Yanky, Captain Tristian^Sxid some other French Command- 
ers had, who lay then at that Island, and they grutching the 
English such a Vessel, they all joined together, plundered 
the English of their Ship, Goods, and Arms, and turned them 
ashoar. Yet Capt. Tristian took in about 8 or 10 of these 
English, and carried them with him to Petit-Guavers: of 
which number Captain Cook was one, and Capt. Davis 
another, who with the rest found means to seize the Ship as 
she lay at anchor in the Road, Capt. Tristian and many of 
his Men being then ashoar: and the English sending ashoar 
such French Men as remained in the Ship and were mastered 
by them, though superior in number, stood away with her 
immediately for the Isle of Vacca, before any notice of this 
surprize could reach the French Governor of that Isle; so 
deceiving him also by a Stratagem, they got on board the rest 
of their Country-men, who had been left on that Island ; and 
going thence they took a Ship newly come from France, laden 
with Wines. They also took a Ship of good Force, in which 
they resolved to embark themselves, and make a new Expedi- 
tion into the South Seas, to cruise on the Coast of Chili and 
Peru. But first they went for Virginia with their Prizes; 
where they arrived the April after my coming thither. The 
best of their Prizes carried 18 Guns: this they fitted up there 
with Sails, and every thing necessary for so long a Voyage ; 
selling the Wines they had taken for such Provisions as they 
wanted. My self, and those of our Fellow-travellers over the 
Isthmus of America, who came with me to Virginia the year 
before this, (most of which had since made a short Voyage to 
Carolina, and were again return' d to Virginia,') resolved 
to join our selves to these new Adventurers: and as many 
more engaged in the same design as made our whole Crew 



WAFER'S DARIEN 67 

Guaves;* our Men feizing the Ship when he 

was gone afhore, carrying it back to the Me of 

A/h, and there taking in the reft of our Crew: 

The taking the French Ship with Wines, and the 

other in which Capt. Cook, who was then of our 

Crew, went afterwards to the South Seas, after 

having firft been at Virginia : So that we His Arrival 

arrived in Virginia with thefe Prizes about 8 or in Virginia. 

9 Months after Mr. Dampier came thither. I fet He goes into 

out with him alfo in that new Expedition to, the the s - Seas 

South Seas under Capt. Cook, tho' he forgot to T. 1 

r to Dampier; 

mention me in that part of his Voyages. We 
went round Terra del Fuego, and f o up the South- 
Sea Coaft, along Chili, Peru and Mexico, as he 
relates at large in his 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th 
Chapters. There, p. 223, he tells how Capt. 
Davis, who had fucceeded Capt. Cook at his 
Death, broke off Confortfhip with Capt. Swan, 
whom we had met with in the South Seas. 
That himfelf being defirous to ftand over to the and parts 
Eaft-Indies, went aboard Capt. Swan : But I with him 
remain'd aboard the fame Ship, now under Capt. 
Davis, and return'd with [45] him the way I 
came. Some few Particulars that I obferv'd in 
that Return, I fhall fpeak of at the Conclufion 
of this Book : In the mean while having given This Reia- 
this Summary Account of the Courfe of my tlon dlfcon - 
Travels, from my firft parting with Mr. Dampier defcri ^ e ° th 
in the IJlhmus, till my laft leaving him in the ijihmus. 

consist of about 70 Men. So having furnish'd our selves with 
necessary Materials, and agreed upon some particular 
Rules, especially of Temperance and Sobriety, by reason of 
the length of our intended Voyage, we all went on board 
our Ship." 
* A town on the coast west of Port au Prince in Haiti. 



68 WAFER'S DARIEN 

South Seas, I fhall now go on with the particular 
Defcription of the IJlhmus of America, which was 
the main Thing I intended in publifhing thefe 
Relations. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 69 



[46] Mr. Wafer's Defcription of the Ifthmus 
of America. 

THE Country I am going to defcribe is the Ifthmus of 
narroweft part of the IJihmus of America, Garten. 
which is more peculiarly call'd the IJihmus 
of Darien ; probably, from the great River of River of 
that Name, wherewith its Northern Coaft is Da- rien - 
bounded to the Eaft :* For beyond this River the Extent of 
Land fpreads fo to the Eaft and North-Eaft, as «**#*»**• 
that on the other Coaft does to the South and 
South- Eaft, that it can no further be call'd an 
IJihmus. It is moftly comprehended between Breadth. 
the Latitudes of 8 and 10 N. but its breadth, in 
the narroweft part, is much about one Degree. 
How far it reaches in length Weftward under Length, 
the Name of the IJihmus of Darien ; whether as 
far as Honduras, or Nicaragua, or no further 
than the River Chagre, or the Towns of Portobel 
and Panama, I cannot fay. 

[47] This laft is the Boundary of what I mean 
to defcribe; and I fhall be moft particular as to 
the middle part even of this, as being the Scene 
of my Abode and Ramble in that Country : Tho' 

* The Atrato River, which empties into the Gulf of Darien. 
According to local usage, the name Darien River belongs more 
properly to the Tuyra or Santa Maria River, which debouches 
on the opposite coast. This identity in name for the two 
rivers has led to some curious historical blunders. — V. R. 



70 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Bounds of 
what is 
ftridtly the 
IJlhmus. 



Its 
Situation. 



Iflands on 
each fide. 



Bay of 
Panama. 



what I fhall have occafion to fay as to this part 
of the IJlhmus, will be in fome meafure applic- 
able to the Country even beyond Panama. 

Were I to fix particular Limits to this nar- 
roweft part of the American IJlhmus, I would 
affign for its Weftern Term, a Line which 
fhould run from the Mouth of the River Chagre, 
where it falls into the North Sea, to the neareft 
part of the South Sea, Weitward of Panama; 
including thereby that City, and Portobel, with 
the Rivers of Cheapo and Chagre. And I fhould 
draw a Line alfo from Point Garachina, or the 
South part of the Gulph of St. Michael, diredtly 
Eaft, to the neareft part of the great River of 
Darien, for the Eaftern Boundary, fo as to take 
Caret Bay into the IJlhmus. On the North and 
South it is fufhciently bounded by each of thofe 
vaft Oceans : And considering that this is the 
narroweft Land that dif-[48]joins them, and 
how exceeding great the Compafs is that muft 
be fetch'd from one Shore to the other by Sea, 
fince it has the North and South America for 
each Extreme, 'tis of a very fmgular Situation, 
verjr pleafant and agreeable. 

Nor doth either of thefe Oceans fall in at once 
upon the Shore, but is intercepted by a great 
many valuable Iflands, that lie fcatter'd along 
each Coaft: The Bajlimentds and others, but 
efpecially the long Range of the Samfraloe's,* on 
the North fide; and the Kings or Pearl Iflands, 
Perica and others in the Bay of Panama, on the 



*The Mulatas, consisting of neighboring groups of small 
islands, " more numerous than the days of the year," accord- 
ing to a local saying. — V. R. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 71 

South-fide. This Bay is caus'd by the bending 
of the IJihmus : And for the bignefs of it, there 
is not, it may be, a more pleafant and advanta- 
geous one any where to be found. 

The Land of this Continent is almoft every The Face of 
where of an unequal Surface, diftinguifh'd with the Land- 
Hills and Valleys, of great variety for heigth, Hills and 
depth, and extent. The Valleys are generally Vales, 
water'd with Rivers, Brooks, and Perennial Waters. 
Springs, with which the Country very much 
abounds. They fall fome into the North, and 
[49] others into the South Sea; and do moft of 
them take their Rife from a Ridge or Chain Main Ridge 
of higher Hills than the reft, running the length of Hllls - 
of the IJihmus, and in a manner parallel to the 
Shore; which for diftindtion's-fake, I fhall call 
the Main Ridge. 

This Ridge is of an unequal Breadth, and 
trends along bending as the IJihmus it felf doth. 
'Tis in moft parts neareft the Edge of the 
North Sea, feldom above 10 or 15 Miles diftant. 
We had always a fair and clear View of the 
North Sea from thence, and the various makings 
of the Shore, together with the adjacent Iflands, Fine 
render'd it a very agreeable Profpedt; but the Profpedt. 
South Sea I could not fee from any part of the 
Ridge. Not that the diftance of it from the 
South Sea is fo great, as that the Eye could not 
reach fo far, efpecially from fuch an Eminence, 
were the Country between a Level or Cham- 
pian : But tho' there are here and there Plains 
and Valleys of a confiderable Extent, and fome 
open Places, yet do they lie intermix 'd with 
confiderable Hills; and thofe too fo cloath'd 



72 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Hills to the 
S. of the 
main Ridge. 



N. fide all a 
Forreft. 



Breaks in 
the main 
Ridge. 



R. Chagre. 



with tall Woods, that they [50] much hinder 
the Profpedt there would otherwife be. Neither 
on the other fide is the main Ridge difcern'd 
from that fide, by reafon of thofe Hills that lie 
between it and the South Sea ; upon afcending 
each of which in our Return from the South Sea, 
we expedted to have been upon the main Ridge, 
and to have feen the North Sea. And tho' ftill 
the further we went that way, the Hills we 
crofs'd feemed the larger; yet, by this means, 
we were lefs fenfible of the heigth of the main 
Ridge, than if we had climb 'd up to it next way 
out of a low Country. 

On the North fide of the main Ridge, there 
are either no Hills at all, or fuch as are rather 
gentle Declivities or gradual Subfidings of the 
Ridge, than Hills diftindt from it: And tho' 
this fide of the Country is every where covered 
with Woods, and more univerfally too, for it is 
all one continued Forreft, yet the Eye from 
that heigth commands the lefs diftant Northern 
Shore with much Eafe and Pleafure. 

Nor is the main Ridge it felf carried on every 
where with a continued [51] Top; but is rather 
a Row or Chain of diftindt Hills, than one pro- 
longed : And accordingly hath frequent and large 
Valleys disjoining the feveral Eminencies that 
compofe its length : And thefe Valleys, as they 
make even the Ridge it felf the more ufeful and 
habitable, fo are they fome of them fo deep in 
their Defcent, as even to admit a PafTage for 
Rivers. For thus the River Chagre, which rifes 
from fome Hills near the South Sea, runs along 
in an oblique North Wefterly Courfe, till it 



WAFER'S DARIEN 73 

finds it felf a Paffage into the North Sea; tho' 
the Chain of Hills, if I miftake not, is extended 
much farther to the Weft, even to the Lake of 
Nicaragua. 

The Rivers that water this Country are fome The Rivers, 
of them indifferent large; tho' but few Navig- Brooks & 
able, as having Bars and Sholes at the Mouths. f?" 1 ^ * 

& the N. Coaft. 

On the North Sea Coaft the Rivers are for the 

moft part very f mall ; for riling generally from 

the main Ridge, which lies near that Shore, 

their Courfe is very fhort. The River of Darien R. of 

is indeed a very large one ; but the depth at the Darien. 

Entrance is not anfwerable to the widenefs of 

its [52] Mouth, tho' 'tis deep enough further in: 

But from thence to Chagre, the whole length of 

this Coaft, they are little better than Brooks: 

Nor is the River of Conception any other, which River of 

comes out over againft La Sound's Key in the Conception. 

Sambaloe s. The River of Chagre is pretty con- R. Chagre. 

fiderable; for it has a long bending Coaft [i. e., 

Course], riling as it does from the South and 

Eaft-part of the IJlhmus, and at fuch a diftance 

from its Outlet. But in general, the North 

Coaft is plentifully water'd; yet is it chiefly 

with Springs and Rivulets trickling down from 

the Neighbouring Hills. 

The Soil on this North Coaft is various ; gen- 
erally 'tis good Land, riling in Hills; but to the 
Sea there are here and there Swamps, yet feldom 
above half a Mile broad. 

Inclufively from Caret Bay, which lies in the The Soil by 
River of Darien, and is the only Harbour in it, Caret Bay. 
to the Promontory near Golden IJland, the Shore 
of the IJlhmus is indifferently fruitful, partly 



74 WAFER'S DARIEN 

Sandy Bay ; but part of it is drowned, f wampy, 
Mangrove Land, where there is no going afhore 
but up to the middle in Mud. The Shore of 
[53] this Coaft rifes in Hills prefently; and the 
main Ridge is about 5 or 6 Miles diftant. Caret 
Bay hath 2 or 3 Rivulets of frefh Water falling 
into it, as I am inform'd, for I have not been 
there. It is a little Bay, and two fmall Iflands 
lying before it, make it an indifferent good Har- 
bour, and hath clear Anchoring Ground, with- 
out any Rocks. Thefe Iflands are pretty high 
Land, cloathed with variety of Trees. 
Bay near the To the Weftward of the Cape at the Entrance 
Entrance of Q f t ^ e Rj ver Darien, is another fine Sandy Bay. 

Darien * n t ne C°<1 °^ it ^ es a little, l° w > fwampy Ifland ; 

I. in the Cod about which 'tis Shole-water and dirty Ground, 
[i.e., inner- not fit for Shipping; and the Shore of the 
most part] of j n hmus behind and about it, is fwampy Land 

the Bay. J . \ 

over-grown with Mangroves; till after three or 
four Mile the Land afcends up to the main 
Ridge. But though the Cod of this Bay be fo 
bad, yet the Entrance of it is deep Water, and 
hard fandy bottom, excellent for anchoring; and 
has three Iflands lying before it, which make it 
an extraordinary good Harbour. The Eaftermoft 
Golden I. of thofe three is Golden IJland, [54] a fmall one, 
with a fair deep Channel between it and the 
Main. It is rocky and fteep all round to the 
Sea, (and thereby naturally fortified) except only 
Good the Landing-place, which is a fmall Sandy Bay 

Harbour. on the South fide, towards the Harbour, from 
whence it gently rifes. It is moderately high, 
and cover' d with fmall Trees or Shrubs. The 
Land of the IJlhmus oppofite to it, to the South 



WAFER'S DARIEN 75 

Eaft, is excellent fruitful Land, of a black Mold, 
with Sand intermix'd ; and is pretty level for 4 
or 5 Mile, till you come to the foot of the Hills. 
At this Place we landed at our going into the 
South Seas with Capt. Sharp. I have been 
afhore at this Golden IJland, and was lying in the 
Harbour near it for about a Fortnight together, 
before I went into the South Seas. Near the 
Eaftern Point of the Bay, which is not above 
three or four Furlongs diftant from Golden IJland, 
there is a Rivulet of very good Water. 

Weft of Golden IJland lies the biggeft of the Another 
three that face the Bay ; it is, as a large low Wand, 
fwampy Ifland, fo befet with Mongroves, that it 
is difficult to go afhore; nor did any of us [55] 
care to attempt it, having no bufmefs in fuch 
bad Ground. It lies very near a Point of the 
IJlhmus, which is fuch a fort of Ground too, for 
a Mile or two further Weftward; and fuch alfo 
is the Ground on the other fide, quite into the 
Cod of the Bay. This Ifland is fcarce parted 
from the IJlhmus but at High-water ; and even 
then Ships cannot pafs between. 

The Ifland of Pines is a fmall Ifland to the ifland of 
North of the other two, making a kind of Tri- Pines. 
angle with them. It rifes in two Hills, and is 
a very remarkable Land off at Sea. It is cover'd 
all over with good tall Trees, fit for any ufe; 
and has a fine Rivulet of frefh Water. The 
North of it is Rocky, as is the oppofite Shore of 
the IJlhmus. On the South fide you go afhore 
on the Ifland at a curious Sand-bay, inclofed 
between two Points like a Half-moon ; and there 
is very good Riding. You may fail quite round 



76 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



The Shore 
to Point 
San ba lias. 



Tickle me 

quickly 

Harbour. 

Sambaloes 
Ifles. 



the Ifland of Pines; but to go to Golden IJland 
Harbour, you muft enter by the Eaft-end of 
Golden Iflands, between that and the Main ; for 
there is no paffing between it and the great low 
Ifland. 

[56] From thefe Iflands, and the low fwampy 
Point oppofite to them, the Shore runs North 
Wefterly to Point Sanballas; and for the firft 3 
Leagues 'tis guarded with a Riffe of Rocks, fome 
above, and fome under Water, where a Boat 
cannot go afhore : The Rocks lie fcatter'd un- 
equally in breadth, for a Mile in fome Places, 
in others two from the Shore. At the North 
Weft end of thefe Rocks, is a fine little Sandy 
Bay, with good anchoring and going afhore, as 
is reported by f everal Privateers : And the end 
of the Rocks on the one fide, and fome of the 
Sambaloes Iflands (the Range of which begins 
from hence) on the other fide, guard it from the 
Sea, and make it a very good Harbour. This, 
as well as the reft, is much frequented by Priva- 
teers; and is by thofe of our Country call'd 
Tickle me quickly Harbour. 

All along from hence to Point Sanballas, ly the 
Samballoe s Iflands, a great multitude of them 
fcattering in a Row, and collaterally too, at very 
unequal Diftances, fome of one, fome two, or 
two Mile and an half, from the Shore, and from 
one another; [57] which, with the adjacent 
Shore, its Hills and perpetual Woods, make a 
lovely Landfchape off at Sea. There are a great 
many more of thefe Iflands than could well be 
reprefented in the Map; fome of them alfo 
being very fmall. They feem to lie parcell'd 



WAFER'S DARIEN 77 

out in Clufters, as it were; between which, 
generally, there are Navigable Channels, by 
which you may enter within them ; and the Sea 
between the whole Range and the IJihmus is 
Navigable from end to end, and affords every 
where good anchoring, in hard Sandy Ground, 
and good Landing on the Iflands and Main. In 
this long Channel, on the Infide of fome or 
other of thofe little Keys or Iflands, be the 
Winds how they will, you never fail of a good 
Place for any number of Ships to ride at ; f o that 
this was the greateft Rendezvous of the Priva- 
teers on this Coaft ; but chiefly La Sound's Key, La Sounds 
or Springer 's Key, efpecially if they ftay'd any Key. 

time here; as well becaufe thefe two Iflands P rm S er 

' Key. 

afford a good Shelter for Careening, as becaufe 

they yield Wells of frefh Water upon digging, 

which few of the reft do. The Sambaloe 's [58] 

are generally low, flat, fandy Iflands, cover' d Trees in the 

with variety of Trees; [efpecially with Mam- Sambaloe" $. 

mees, Sapadilloes, and Manchineel, &c. befide 

the Shell-fifh, and other Refrefhmentsthey afford 

the Privateers].* The outermoft Keys toward 

the main Sea, are rocky on that fide (and are 

called the Riffe Keys) ; tho' their oppolite Sides 

are Sandy, as the innermoft Keys or Iflands are. 

And there is a Ridge alfo of Rocks lying off at 

Sea on the outfide, which appear above Water 

at fome half a Mile diftance, and extend in 

length as far as La Sounds Key, if not further; 

and even the Sea between, and the Shore of the 

Sambaloes it felf on that fide, is all rocky. 

The long Channel between the Sambaloes and 

* Brackets thus in original. 



78 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Channel 
of the 
Sambaloes. 



R. of Con- 
ception and 
adjacent 
Coaft. 



Good 
Landing. 



Point 
Sanballas. 



the IJlhmus is of two, three, and four Miles 
breadth ; and the Shore of the IJlhmus is partly 
Sandy Bays, and partly Mangrove Land, quite 
to Point Sanballas. The Mountains are much 
at the fame diftance of 6 or 7 Miles from the 
Shore ; but about the River of Conception, which 
comes out about a Mile or two to the Eaftward 
of La Sound's Key, the main Ridge [59] is fome- 
what further diftant. Many little Brooks fall 
into the Sea on either fide of that River, and 
the Outlets are fome of them into the Sandy 
Bay, and fome of them among the Mangrove 
Land; the Swamps of which Mangroves are (on 
this Coaft) made by the Salt Water, fo that the 
Brooks which come out there are brackif h ; but 
thofe in the Sandy Bay yield very fweet Water. 
None of thofe Outlets, not the River of Concep- 
tion it felf , are deep enough to admit any Veffel 
but Canoas, the Rivers on this part of the Coaft 
being numerous but f hallow ; but the fine Riding 
in the Channel makes any other Harbour need- 
lefs. I have been up and down moft parts of 
it, and upon many of the Iflands, and there the 
going afhore is always eafy. But a Sea-wind 
makes a great Sea fometimes fall in upon the 
IJlhmus, efpecially where a Channel opens 
between the Iflands ; f o that I have been overf et 
in a Canoa going afhore in one River, and in 
putting off to Sea from another. The Ground 
hereabouts is an excellent Soil within Land, 
riling up gently to the main Ridge, and is a 
continued Foreft of ftately Timber-Trees. 

[60] Point Sanballas is a Rocky Point, pretty 
longhand low, and is alfo fo guarded with Rocks 



WAFER'S DARIEN 79 

for a Mile off at Sea, that it is dangerous coming 
near it. From hence the Shore runs Weft, and 
a little Northerly, quite to Portobel. About 
three Leagues Weftward from this Point lies 
Port Scrivan. The Coaft between them is all 
Rocky, and the Country within Land all Woody, 
as in other Parts. 

Port Scrivan is a good Harbour, when you are Port 
got into it; but the Entrance of it, which is Scrtvan - 
fcarce a Furlong over, is fo befet with Rocks on 
each fide, but efpecially to the Eaft, that it is 
very dangerous going in : Nor doth there feem 
to be a depth of Water fufficient to admit Veff els 
of any Bulk, there being in moft Places but 
eight or nine Foot Water. The Infide of the 
Harbour goes pretty deep within the Land ; and 
as there is good Riding, in a Sandy bottom, 
efpecially at the Cod of it, which is alfo fruitful 
Land, and has good frefh Water, fo there is 
good Landing too on the Eaft and South, where 
the Country is low for two or three Miles, and 
very firm Land; but the Weft-fide is a Swamp 
[61] of Red Mangroves. It was here at this Red 
Swamp, as bad a Paffage as it is, that Capt. Mangroves. 
Coxon, La Sound, and the other Privateers landed 
in the Year, 167I. when they went to take Por- 
tobel. They had by this means a very tedious 
and wearifome March; but they chofe to land 
at this diftance from the Town, rather than at 
the Bajlimento'' s or any nearer Place, that they 
might avoid being difcover'd by the Scouts 
which the Spaniards always keep in their Neigh- 
bourhood, and fo might furprize them. And 
they did, indeed, by this means avoid being 



80 WAFER'S DARIEN 

difcern'd, till they came within an Hours march 
of the Town; tho' they travelled along the 
Country for five or fix Days. The Spaniards 
make no ufe of this Port Scrivan; and unlefs a 
Privateer, or a rambling Sloop put in here by 
chance, no Veffel vifits it in many Years. 

From Port Scrivan to the Place where ftood 
formerly the City of Nombre de Bios, 'tis further 
Weftward about 7 or 8 Leagues. The Land 
between is very uneven, with fmall Hills, fteep 
againft the Sea; the Valleys between them 
water'd [62] with forry little Rivers. The Soil 
of the Hills is Rocky, producing but fmall 
fhrubby Trees; the Valleys are fome of good 
Land, fome of Swamps and Mangroves. The 
main Ridge here feems to lie at a good diftance 
from the Sea ; for it was not dif cernible in this 
March of the Privateers along the Shore to Por- 
Nombre de tobel. The Place where Nombre de Dios ftood is 
Dios. the bottom of a Bay, clofe by the Sea, all over- 

grown with a fort of Wild-Canes, like thofe 
us'd by our Anglers in England. There is no 
Sign of a Town remaining, it is all fo over-run 
with thefe Canes. The Situation of it feems to 
have been but very indifferent, the Bay before 
it lying open to the Sea, and affording little 
Shelter for Shipping; which I have heard was 
one Reaf on why the Spaniards f orf 00k it : And 
another, probably, was the Unhealthinefs of the 
Country it felf , it being fuch low fwampy Land, 
and very lickly ; yet there is a little Rivulet of 
very fweet Water which runs clofe by the Eaft- 
fide of the Town. The Mouth of the Harbour 
is very wide ; and tho' I have heard that there 



WAFER'S DARIEN 81 

lie before it two [63] or three little Keys, or 
Rocks, yet they afforded no great Security to it. 
So that the Spaniards were certainly much in 
the right, for quitting this Place to fettle at 
Portobel; which tho' it be alfo an unhealthy 
Place, yet has it the advantage of a very good 
and defenfible Harbour. 

About a Mile or two to the Weftward of thefe 
fmall Iflands, at the Mouth of the Bay of Nombre 
de Dios, and about half a Mile or more from the 
Shore, lie a few Iflands called the Bajlimentds, 1. Bajii- 
for the moft part pretty high, and one peeked, mentd's. 
and all cloathed with Woods. On one of them, 
(part of which alfo was a Sandy Bay, and a good 
Riding and Landing-place) there is a Spring of 
very good Water. I was afhore at this Ifland, 
and up and down among the reft of them ; and 
all of them together make a very good Harbour 
between them and the IJlhmus. The Bottom 
affords good Anchoring; and there is good 
coming in with the Sea- wind between the Eaft- 
ermoft Ifland and the next to it, and going out 
with the Land-wind the fame way, this being 
the chief Paffage. Further Weft, before you 
come to [64] Portobel, lie two fmall Iflands, flat 2 other Ifles. 
and without Wood or Water. They are pretty 
clofe together; and one of them I have been 
afhore upon. The Soil is fandy, and they are 
environ 'd with Rocks towards the Sea; and they 
lie fo near the IJlhmus that there is but a very 
narrow Channel between, not fit for Ships to 
come into. 

The Shore of the IJlhmus hereabouts confifts 
moftly of Sandy Bays, after you are paft a Ridge 



82 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



The Neigh- 
bouring 
Shore of the 
Ijlhmus. 



Spanijh 
Indians. 



Portobel. 

The 
Harbour. 



The Forts. 



of Rocks that run out from the Bay of Nombre 
de Dios, pointing towards the Bajlimento' s. 
Beyond the Bajlimento 's to Portobel, the Coaft is 
generally Rocky. Within Land the Country is 
full of high and fteep Hills, very good Land; 
moft Woody, unlefs where clear' d for Planta- 
tions by Spanifh Indians, tributary to Portobel, 
whither they go to Church. And thefe are the 
firft Settlements on this Coaft under the Spanifh 
Government, and lie fcattering in lone Houfes 
or little Villages, from hence to Portobel and 
beyond ; with fome Look-outs or Watches kept 
towards the Sea, for the Safety of the Town. 
In all the reft of the North- [6 5] fide of the 
Ijlhmus, which I have defcrib'd hitherto, the 
Spaniards had neither Command over the Indians, 
nor Commerce with them while I was there, 
though there are Indians inhabiting all along the 
Continent ; yet one has told me fmce, that the 
Spaniards have won them over to them.* 

Portobel is a very fair, large and commodious 
Harbour, affording good Anchoring and good 
Shelter for Ships, having a narrow Mouth, and 
fpreading wider within. The Galleons from 
Spain find good Riding here during the time of 
their Bufinefs at Portobel; for from hence they 
take in fuch of the Treafures of Peru as are 
brought thither over Land from Panama. The 
Entrance of this Harbour is fecur'd by a Fort 
upon the left Hand going in ; it is a very itrong 
one, and the Paffage is made more fecure by a 
Block-houfe on the other fide, oppofite to it. 

* Chiefly through the efforts of the well-known Bishop 
Piedrahita.— V. R. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 83 

At the bottom of the Harbour lies the Town, 
bending along the Shore like a Half-moon: In 
the middle of which upon the Sea, is another 
fmall low Fort, environ 'd with Houfes except 
only to the Sea : And [66] at the Weft end of 
the Town, about a Furlong from the Shore, 
upon a gentle Rifing, lies another Fort, pretty- 
large and very ftrong, yet overlook 'd by a 
Neighbouring Hill further up the Country, 
which Sir Henry Morgan made ufe of to take the 
Fort. In all thefe Forts there may be about 2 
or 300 Spanifh Souldiers in Garifon. The Town The Town, 
is long and narrow, having two principal Streets 
belides thof e that go acrof s ; with a fmall Parade 
about the middle of it, furrounded with pretty 
fair Houfes. The other Houfes alfo and 
Churches are pretty handfome, after the Spanifh 
make. The Town lies open to the Country 
without either Wall or Works ; and at the Eaft- 
fide of it, where the Road to Panama goes out, Road to 
(becaufe of Hills, that lie to the Southward of Panama. 
the Town, and obftrudt the diredt Paffage) there 
lies a long Stable, running North and South from 
the Town, to which it joins. This is the King's The K'.s 
Stable for the Mules that are imployed in the Stable. 
Road betwixt this and Panama. The Govern- The Gover- 
ours Houfe is clofe by the great Fort, on the nours 
fame Rifing, at the Weft of the Town. [67] 
Between the Parade in the middle of the Town, 
and the Governours Houfe, is a little Creek or 
Brook, with a Bridge over it; and at the Eaft- 
end, by the Stable, is a fmall Rivulet of frefh Rivulet 
Water. I have already faid that it is an un- Bad Air. 
healthy Place. The Eait-fide is low and 



84 WAFER'S DARIEN 

fwampy ; and the Sea at low Water leaves the 
Shore within the Harbour bare, a great way from 
the Houfes; which having a black filthy Mud, 
it ftinks very much, and breeds noifome Vapours, 
thro' the Heat of the Climate. From the South 
and the Eaft- fides the Country rifes gently in 
Hills, which are partly Woodland and partly 
Savannah; but there is not any great Store 
either of Fruit-trees or Plantations near the 
Town. This Account I have had from feveral 
Privateers juft as they return 'd from Portobel; 
but I have not been there my felf . 
The Coaft The Country beyond this Weftward, to the 

hence to Mouth of the River Chagre, I have f een off at 
agre ' Sea: But not having been afhore there, I can 
give no other Account of it, but only that it is 
partly Hilly, and near the Sea very much 
Swampy ; and I have [68] heard by feveral that 
there is no Communication between Portobel and 
the Mouth of that River. 

I have been yet further Weftward on this 

Coaft, before I went over the IJihmus with Capt. 

_ Sharp, ranging up and down and careening at 

Bocca Toro ' ,,-. t^ ■, » • '• .^ 

& Bocca Bocca Toro and Bocca Drago ; but this is without 

Drago. the Verge of thofe Bounds I have fet my felf. 

The s. Sea Having thus Survey 'd the North-Coaft of the 

Coaft of the ijihmus, I f hall take a light View of the South 

IJihmus. alfo ; But j fhaU the lefs need tQ be particu i ar j n 

it, becaufe Mr. Dampier hath in fome meafure 

defcrib'd this part of it in his Voyage round the 

World. 
Point Gar a- To begin therefore from Point Garachina, 
china. which makes the Weft- fide of the Mouth of the 

River of Sambo, this Point is pretty high faft 



WAFER'S DARIEN 85 

Land; but within, towards the River, it is low, 
drowned Mangrove, and fo are all the Points of Cape St. 
Land to Cape Saint Lorenzo. Lorenzo. 

The River of Sambo I have not f een ; but it is r. Sambo. 
faid to be a pretty large River. Its Mouth 
opens to the North ; and from thence the Coaft 
bears North Eaft to the Gulph of St. Michael. Guiph of 
[69] This Gulph is made by the Outlets of fev- s - Michael. 
eral Rivers, the moft noted of which are the 
River of Santa Maria, and the River of Congo-, 
tho' there are others of a confiderable bignefs. 
Of thefe Rivers, to the Southward of Santa 
Maria, one is called the Gold River, affording Gold R. 
Gold Duft in great plenty: For hither the 
Spaniards of Panama and Santa Maria Town 
bring up their Slaves to gather up the Gold 
Duft. 

The next to the Gold River is that of Santa R. Santa 
Maria, fo called from the Town of that Name Maria. 
feated on the South-fide of it, at a good diftance 
from the Sea. It was along this River we came,* 
when we firft entred the South Seas with Cap- 
tain Sharp, ftanding over it, from the Bay by 
Golden Ifland, where we landed. We then took 
the Town of Santa Maria in our way ; which Santa 
was garrifon'd with about 200 Spanifh Soldiers, Maria 
but was not very ftrong, having no Walls ; and Town - 
the Fort it felf was fecur'd with Stockadoes 
only, or Palifadoes. This is but a new Town, 
being built by the Spaniards of Panama, partly 

* They followed the Sucubti, which rises in the mountains 
back of Caledonia Harbor, down to the main stream of the Chu- 
gtmaque and down this stream to the town of Santa Maria. 
The Tuyra and the Santa Maria were the gold rivers. — V. R. 



86 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



The Coun- 
try about. 



Scuchadero 
V. 



R. Congo. 



Gulph of 
S. Michael. 



for a Garifon and Magazine of Provifion, [70] 
and partly for Quarters of Refrefhment, and a 
retiring Place for their Workmen in the Gold 
River. The Country all about here is Woody 
and Low, and very unhealthy ; the Rivers being 
fo Oazy, that the {linking Mud infects the Air: 
But the little Village of Scuchadero, which lies 
on the right fide of the River of Santa Maria, 
near the Mouth of it, is feated on faft riling 
Ground, open to the Gulph of St. Michael, and 
admitting frefh Breezes from the Sea; fo that 
this is pretty healthy, and ferves as a Place of 
Refrefhment for the Mines; and has a fine 
Rivulet of very fweet Water; whereas thofe 
Rivers are brackifh for a conflderable way up 
the Country. 

Between Scuchadero and Cape St. Lorenzo, 
which makes the North-fide of the Gulph of St. 
Michael, the River of Congo falls into the Gulph ; 
which River is made up of many Rivulets, that 
fall from the Neighbouring Hills, and join into 
one Stream. The Mouth of it is muddy, and 
bare for a great way at low Water, unlefs juft 
in the depth of the Channel; and it affords 
little Entertainment for Ship-[7i]ping. But 
further in, the River is deep enough; fo that 
Ships coming in at high Water might find it a 
very good Harbour, if they had any Bufinefs 
here. The Gulph it felf has feveral Iflands in 
it; and up and down in and about them, there 
is in many Places very good Riding; for the 
molt part in Oazy Ground. The Iflands alfo, 
efpecially thofe towards the Mouth, make a good 
Shelter ; and the Gulph hath room enough for 



WAFER'S DARIEN 87 

a multitude of Ships. The Sides are every- 
where furrounded with Mangroves, growing in 
wet fwampy Land. 

North of this Gulph is a fmall Creek, where The Land to 
we landed at our Return out of the Seas ; * and ^ e N - of the 
the Land between thefe is partly fuch Mangrove 
Land as the other, and partly Sandy Bays. 
From thence the Land runs further on North, 
but gently bending to the Weft : And this Coaft 
alfo is much fuch a mixture of Mangrove Land 
and Sandy Bay, quite to the River Cheapo; and 
in many Places there are Sholes, for a Mile or Sholes. 
half a Mile off at Sea. In feveral parts of this 
Coaft, at about five or fix Miles [72] diftance 
from the Shore there are fmall Hills ; and the 
whole Country is covered with Woods. I know 
but one River worth obferving between Congo 
and Cheapo : Yet there are many Creeks and 
Outlets ; but no frefh Water, that I know of, in 
any part of this Coaft, in the dry Seafon ; for 
the Stagnancies and Declivities of the Ground, 
and the very droppings of the Trees, in the wet 
Seafon, afford Water enough. 

Cheapo is a confiderable River, but has no r. Cheapo. 

good entring into it for Sholes. Its Courfe is The Land 

long, rifing near the North Sea, and pretty far here - 

from towards the Eaft. About this River the 

Country fomething changes its Face, being 

Savannah on the Weft-fide; though the Eaft- 

fide is Woodland, as the other. Cheapo Town Cheapo T. 

* Dampier, p. 7 : " We just got about Cape St. Lorenzo in 
the morning ; and sailed about 4 miles farther to the West- 
ward, and run into a small Creek within two Keys, or little 
Islands, and rowed up to the head of the Creek, being about a 
mile up, and there we landed May 1. 1681." 



88 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Savannah's. 



R. Chagre. 



Vent a de 
Cruzes. 



Carriage to 
Portobel. 



3 Rivers. 



Old Pan- 
ama. 



ftands on the Weft-fide, at fome diftance from 
the Sea; but is fmall, and of no great Confe- 
quence. Its chief Support is from the Paftur- 
age of black Cattle in the Savannah's. 

Thefe Savannah's are not level, but confift of 
fmall Hills and Valleys, with fine Spots of 
Woods intermix 'd ; and from fome of thefe Hills 
not far [73] from Cheapo, the River of Chagre, 
which runs into the North Sea, takes its rife. 
It runs Weft for a while ; and on the South-fide 
of it, at no great diftance from Panama, is Vent a 
de Cruzes, a fmall Village of Inns and Store- 
houfes; whither Merchandifes that are to be 
fent down the River Chagre are carried from 
Panama by Mules, and there embark 'd in Canoa's 
and Pereagoe's ; but the Plate is carried all the 
way by Land on Mules to Portobel. The Coun- 
try here alfo is Savannah and Woodland inter- 
mix'd; with thick fhort Hills, efpecially towards 
Panama. 

Between the River of Cheapo and Panama, 
further Weft, are three Rivers, of no great 
Confequence, lying open to the Sea. The Land 
between is low even Land, moft of it dry, and 
cover'd here and there by the Sea, with fhort 
Bufhes. Near the moft Wefterly of thefe Old 
Panama was feated, once a large City ; but noth- 
ing now remains of it, befides Rubbifh, and a 
few Houfes of poor People. The Spaniards 
were weary of it, having no good Port or Land- 
ing-place ; and had a defign to have left [74] it, 
before it was burnt by Sir Henry Morgan. But 
then they no longer deliberated about the Mat- 
ter ; but inftead of rebuilding it, raifed another 



WAFER'S DARIEN 89 

Town to the Weftward, which is the prefent 
City of Panama. The River of Old Panama runs R. of 
between them ; but rather nearer the new Town Panama - 
than the Old; and into this River fmall Barks 
may enter. 

The chief Advantage which New Panama New 
hath above the Old, is an excellent Road for Panama - 
fmall Ships, as good as a Harbour ; for which it The 
is beholden to the Shelter of the Neighbouring Harb ° ur - 
Ifles of Perica, which lie before it, three in num- ifles of 
ber, in a Row parallel to the Shore. There is Perica - 
very good Anchoring between, at a good diftance 
from the Town ; but between the Road and the 
Town is a Shole or Spit of Land ; f o that Ships shole. 
cannot come near the Town, but lie neareft to 
Perica ; but by this means the Town has them 
lefs under Command. Panama ftands on a level 
Ground, and is furrounded with a high Wall, 
efpecially towards the Sea. It hath no Fort 
befides the Town- Walls; upon which the Sea, 
[75] which wafhes it every Tide, beats fo ftrong- 
ly, fometimes, as to throw down a part of them. 
It makes a very beautiful Profpedt off at Sea, Fine Prof- 
the Churches and chief Houfes appearing above P e<5t of 
the reft. The Building appears white; efpe- 
cially the Walls, which are of Stone; and the 
Covering of the Houfes red, for probably they 
are Pan-tile, which is much ufed by the Span- 
iards all over the WesT;- Indies. The Town is 
furrounded with Savannahs, gentle flat Hills, 
and Copfes of Wood, which add much to the 
Beauty of the Profpedt ; and among thef e are fcat- 
ter'd here and there fome Eftantion s or Farm- Ejiantioris. 
houfes for the managing their Cattel; which 



90 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Its Jurif 
diction. 



Bad Air. 



The great are Beeves, Horfes and Mules. This Town is 
refort to ^ e g rea t Rendezvous of this part of the South - 
fea Coaft; being the Receptacle of the Treafures 
from Lima, and other Sea-ports of Peru ; trading 
alfo towards Mexico, though very little beyond 
the Gulph of Nicaragua. The King of Spain 
hath a Prefident here, who adts in Concert with 
his Council; and the Governour of Portobel is 
under him. His Jurif didtion comprehends 
Nata, Lavelia, Leon, [76] Realeja, &c. till he 
meets with the Government of Guatimala ; and 
Eaftward he commands over as much of the 
IJlhmus, on both Seas, as is under the Spaniards. 
The Place is very fickly, though it lies in a 
Country good enough; but poffibly 'tis only fo 
to thofe who come hither from the dry pure Air 
of Lima and Truxillio, and other Parts of Peru ; 
who grow indifpos'd prefently, and are forc'd to 
cut off their Hair. Yet is it very healthy in 
comparifon of Portobel. 

About a League to the Weft of Panama is 
another River, which is pretty large, and is 
Rio Grande, called by fome Rio Grande. It is Shole at 
entrance, and runs very fwift; and fo is not fit 
for Shipping. On the Weft-banks of it are 
Eftantiori 's and Plantations of Sugar; but the 
Shore from hence beginning to trend away to 
the Southward again, I fhall here fix my Weft- 
ern Boundary to the South-fea Coaft of the 
IJlhmus, and go no further in the Defcription 
of it. 

The Shore between Point Garachina and this 
River, and fo on further to Punta Mala, makes 
a very regular [yj~\ and more than Semi-circular 



WAFER'S DARIEN 91 

Bay, called by the name of the Bay of Panama. Bay of 
In this are feveral as fine Iflands as are any Panama. 
where to be found, the King s or Pearl Iflands, 
Pacheque, Chepelio, Perica, &c. with great variety 
of good Riding for Ships: Of all which Mr. 
Dampier hath given a particular Account in the 
7th Chapter of his Voyage round the World; fo 
that I fhall forbear to fay any thing more of 
them. 'Tis a very noble delightful Bay; and 
as it affords good anchoring and fhelter, fo the 
Iflands alfo yield plenty of Wood, Water, 
Fruits, Fowls and Hoggs, for the accommoda- 
tion of Shipping. 

The Soil of the Inland part of the Country is The Soil, 
generally very good, for the moft part, of a 
black fruitful Mould. From the Gulph of St. 
Michael, to the Ridge of Hills lying off Caret 
Bay, it is a Vale Country, well water'd with the 
Rivers that fall into that Gulph : But near the 
Gulph 'tis very fwampy and broken, fo as that 
it is fcarce poffible to travel along the Shore 
thereabouts. Weftward of the River of Congo, 
the Country grows more Hilly and Dry, with 
pleafant [78] and rich Vales intermix'd, till you 
are paffc the River Cheapo; and thus far the 
whole Country is all, as it were, one continued 
Wood. The Savannah Country commences 
here, dry and grafly; with fmall Hills and 
Woods intermix'd: And the Hills are every 
where fertile to the top (tho' more fruitful 
nearer the bottom) and even the tops of the 
main Ridge are cover 'd with very flourifhing 
Trees. Yet the Hills from which the Gold 
Rivers fall, near Santa Maria, are more barren 



92 WAFER'S DARIEN 

towards the top, and bear fhort Shrubs fcatter'd 
here and there. The Soil feems capable of any 
Productions proper to the Climate : I believe we 
have nothing that grows in Jamaica but what 
would thrive here alfo; and grow very luxuri- 
antly, confidering the exceeding richnefs of the 
Soil. 
The Woods. The Woods of this Country are not the fame 
on the tops or fides of the Hills in the Inland 
Country, as they are near the Sea. For in the 
drier and more rifing Inland Country, the Woods 
are rather a large Foreft of Timber-trees, or a 
Delightful Grove of Trees of feveral kinds, 
very large [79] and tall, with little or no Under- 
wood: And the Trees are plac'd at fuch a 
diftance from each other, as that a Horfe might 
gallop among them for a great way, and decline 
them with eafe. The tops of thefe Trees are 
generally very large and fpreading ; and I pre- 
fume, 'tis the fhade and dropping of thefe 
which hinders any thing elfe from growing in 
the rich Ground among them : For in the open 
Savannahs, or where the Ground is clear 'd by 
Induftry for Plantations, there grow f mailer 
Vegetables in great abundance. But on the 
Swampy Sea-Coaft, where the Soil is often fwampy 
Thickets. drown'd Land, efpecially near the Mouths of 
Rivers, the Trees are not tall but fhrubby, as 
Mangroves, Brambles, Bamboe's, &c. Not 
growing in the manner of Groves or Arbours, 
f cattering at convenient diftances ; but in a con- 
tinued Thicket, fo clofe fet, that 'tis a very 
difficult matter to work ones way through thefe 
Moraffes. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 93 

The Weather is much the fame here as in The 
other places of the Torrid Zone in this Lati- Weather, 
tilde ; but inclining rather to the Wet Extreme. 
The [80] Seafon of Rains begins in April or seafon of 
May ; and during the Months of June, July and the Rains. 
Augujl, the Rains are very violent. It is very- 
hot alfo about this time, where-ever the Sun 
breaks out of a Cloud : For the Air is then very 
fultry, becaufe then ufually there are no Breezes 
to fan and cool it, but 'tis all glowing hot. 
About September, the Rains begin to abate : But 
'tis November or December, and it may be, part of 
January e're they are quite gone: So that 'tis a 
very wet Country, and has Rains for Two 
Thirds, if not Three Quarters of a Year. Their 
firft coming is after the manner of our fuddain Thunder 
April Showers, or hafty Thunder Showers, one and Light- 
in a Day at firft. After this, two or three in a 
Day; at length, a Shower almoft every Hour: 
and frequently accompanied with violent Thun- 
der and Lightning: During which time, the Air 
has often a faint Sulphureous Smell, where 
pent up among the Woods. After this variable 
Weather, for about four or fix Weeks, there will 
be fettled continued Rains of feveral Days and 
Nights, without Thunder and Lightning, but 
exceeding vehement, [81] confidering the length 
of them. Yet at certain Intervals between 
thefe, even in the wetteft of the Seafon, there 
will be feveral fair Days intermix' d, with only 
Tornado's or Thunder-Showers ; and that fome- 
times for a Week together. Thefe Thunder- 
Showers caufe ufually a fenfible Wind, by the 
Clouds preffing the Atmofphere, which is very 



mng. 



94 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Moskito's. 



Land- 
Floods. 



refreshing, and moderates the Heat: But then 
this Wind fhaking the Trees of this continued 
Fore ft, their dropping is as troublefome as the 
Rain it felf . When the Shower is over, you fhall 
hear for a great way together the Croaking of 
Frogs and Toads, the humming of Moskito's or 
Gnats, and the hiffing or f hrieking of Snakes and 
other Infedts, loud and unpleafant; fome like the 
quacking of Ducks. The Moskito's chiefly 
infeft the low fwampy or Mangrove Lands, near 
the Rivers or Seas: But however, this Country 
is not fo pefter'd with that uneafie Vermin, as 
many other of the warm Countries are. When 
the Rains fall among the Woods, they make a 
hollow or ratling found: But the Floods caus'd 
by them often bear down the [82] Trees ; as I 
obferv'd in relating my Paffage over Land. 
Thefe will often Barricado or Dam up the River, 
till 'tis clear' d by another Flood that fhall fet 
the Trees afloat again. Sometimes alfo the 
Floods run over a broad Plain ; and for the time, 
make it all like one great Lake. The cooleft 
time here is about our Chriftmas, when the fair 
Weather is coming on. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 95 



[83] Of the Trees, Fruits, &c. in the Ifthmus 
of America. 

AS this Country is very Woody, fo it con- Trees, &*c. 
tains great variety of Trees, of feveral 
Kinds unknown to us in Europe, as well 
Fruit-Trees as others. 

The Cot ton- tree is the largeft of any, and Cotton-tree. 
grows in great plenty in moft parts of the 
Ifthmus ; but I do not remember that I have 
feen it in the Samballoes, or any other of the 
adjacent IJla?ids. It bears a Cod about as big as 
a Nutmeg, full of fhort Wool or Down, which 
when ripe burfts out of the Cod, and is blown 
about by the Wind, and is of little ufe. The 
chief Advantage that is made of thefe Trees, is 
by forming them into Canoa's and Periago's; 
which laft differ from the other, as Lighters 
and fmall Barges do from Wherries.* The 

* Both were made from the single trunk of a tree, hollowed 
out by burning and scraping. " A Canow is like a little 
Wherry-boat made of one only Tree, without the help of any 
other Instrument but fire only, which they set to the root of 
the Tree, governing it with such industry, as nothing is burnt 
but that that they would have, thus by this only Instrument 
they put it into such a form, as makes it capable to Sail three 
or fourscore Leagues without hazard." — History of the Buca- 
niers (London, Malthus, 1684, i2mo), p. 181. 



96 WAFER'S DARIEN 

Indians burn the Trees hollow ; but the Spaniards 
hew and chizzel them ; and the Wood is very 
foft and eafy [84] to work upon, being fofter 
than Willow. 
Cedar. The Cedars of this Country are valuable for 

their heighth and largenefs; there are very 
ftately ones on the Continent, but I remember 
not any in the IJlands. They grow towards 
each of the Sea Coajls, but efpecially towards the 
North. The Wood is very red, of a curious fine 
Grain, and very frag[r]ant. But thef e are put to 
no better ufe than the Cotton-trees, ferving only 
to make Canoa's and Periago's: And their 
plenty you may judge of by this, that if the 
Indians want to cut one for a Canoa, they will 
not trouble themfelves about any a Furlong off, 
tho' never fo fine; having enough ufually to 
fell by the fide of the River into which they 
intend to Launch it. 

There are on the Continent feveral Trees of 
the Palm-kind, of which fort we may reckon 
Macaw- the Macaw-tree. It grows in great plenty in 
tree. fwampy or moift Grounds ; and I remember not 

that I faw them any where but on the South- 
fide of the IJlhmus, which is moftly of fuch a 
Soil. It is not very tall, the Body riling ftreight 
up [85] to about ten Foot or more, furrounded 
with protuberant Rings at certain diftances, 
and thofe thick-fet with long Prickles. The 
middle of the Tree is a Pith like Elder, taking 
up above half the Diameter of the Body. The 
Body is naked without Branches till towards 
the top ; but there it puts out Leaves or Branches 
12 or 14 Foot long, and a Foot and an half wide, 



WAFER'S DARIEN 97 

leffening gradually toward the Extremity. The 
Rib or Seam of this Leaf is befet all along with 
Prickles, on the out-fide ; and the Leaf it f elf is 
jagged about the Edges and as thick as ones 
Hand, at the broader end of it. At the top of 
the Tree, and amidft the Roots of thefe Leaves 
grows the Fruit, a fort of Berries fprouting up 
in Clutters, each about the fize of a fmall Pear, 
but many fcore of them together. They incline 
to an oval Figure, and are of a yellow or reddif h 
Colour when ripe. There is a Stone in the 
middle, and the outfide is ftringy, and llimy 
when ripe ; of a tart Taft, harfh in the Mouth, 
yet not unpleaf ant : And the way of eating the 
Fruit is to bite the Flefhy part from the Stone, 
and having chew'd it, [86] to fpit out the 
remaining ftringy Subftance. The Indians fre- 
quently cut down the Tree only to get the 
Berries; but fuch of them as are more low and 
flender, you may bend down to your Hand. 
The Wood of the Tree is very hard, black, and 
ponderous, and is of great ufe. It fplits very 
eafily, and the Indians make of it many Conve- 
niences for their Building and other Occafions, 
fplitting the Tree into fmall Planks or Rafters 
which they ufe about their Houfes. The Men 
make Arrow-heads of this Wood; the Women 
Needle-Shuttles to weave their Cotton, &c. 

Upon the Main alfo grows the Bibby Tree, fo Bzbby-tre&. 
called from a Liquor which diftills from it, and 
which our Englifh call Bibby. The Tree hath a 
ftreight flender Body no thicker than ones 
Thigh, but grows to a great heighth, 60 or 70 
Foot. The Body is naked of Leaves or Branches, 



98 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



but prickly. The Branches put out at the top, 
and among them grow the Berries abundantly, 
like a Garland round about the Root of each of 
the Branches. The Tree hath all along the 
infide of [87] it a narrow Pith; the Wood is very 
hard, and black as Ink. The Indians do not cut, 
but burn down the Tree to get at the Berries. 
Thefe are of a whitifh Colour, and about the 

Nut-Oil. fize of a Nutmeg. They are very Oily ; and the 
Indians beat them in hollow Mortars or Troughs, 
then boil and ftrain them ; and as the Liquor 
cools, they skim off a clear Oil from the top. 
This Oil is extraordinary bitter: The Indians 
ufe it for anointing themf elves, and to mix with 
the Colours wherewith they paint themfelves. 

The Bibby. When the Tree is young they Tap it, and put a 
Leaf into the Bore; from whence the Bibby 
trickles down in great quantity. It is a wheyifh 
Liquor, of a pleafant tart Tafte ; and they drink 
it after it hath been kept a Day or two. 

Coco. There are Coco-trees in the Iflands, but none 

on the IJlhmus that I remember ; and no Cacao- 
trees on either. 

Anonymous. On the Main grows a Tree that bears a Fruit 
like a Cherry; but full of Stones, and never foft. 

Plantains. On the Main alfo are Plantains in great abun- 
dance, which have a Body confifting of feveral 
Leaves or Coats, [88] that grow one from under 
another, fpiring upwards into an oblong Fruit at 
the top; the Coats or Leaves, which are very 
long and large, fpreading off from the Body, 
and making a Plume all round. None of them 
grow wild, unlefs when fome are brought down 
the Rivers in the Seafon of the Rains, and being 



WAFER'S DARIEN 99 

left aground, fow themf elves. The Indians fet 
them in Rows or Walks, without under- wood; 
and they make very delightful Groves. They 
cut them down to get at the Fruit; and the 
Bodies being green and fappy, they are cut 
down with one Stroke of an Axe. 

The Bonano's alfo grow on the IJlhmus very Bonano's. 
plentifully. They are a fort of Plantains. The 
Fruit is fhort and thick, f weet and mealy. This 
eats beft raw, and the Plantain boil'd. 

On the IJlands there are a great many Mam- Mammee. 
mee-trees, which grow with a clear, ftreight 
Body, to 60 Foot high, or upwards. The Fruit 
is very wholefome and delicious; fhap'd fome- 
what like a Pound-pear, but much larger, with 
a fmall Stone or two in the middle. 

[89] The Mammee-Sappota differs fomething Mammee 
from the other, and is a fmaller and firmer Sappota. 
Fruit, of a fine beautiful Colour when ripe. It 
is very f carce on the IJlands ; and neither of thef e 
grow on the Continent. 

So neither are Sapadillo's found growing on Sapadillo's. 
the IJlhmus, though there is great plenty of them 
in the IJlands. The Tree is not fo high as thofe 
laft; it grows without Branches to the top, 
where it fpreads out in Limbs like an Oak. 
The Fruit is very pleafant to the Taft. It is 
fmall as a Bergamafco Pear, and is coated like a 
Ruff et- Pippin. 

On the IJlhmus grows that delicious Fruit 
which we call the Pine- Apple, in fhape not much Pine- Apple. 
unlike an Artichoke, and as big as a Mans Head. 
It grows like a Crown on the top of a Stalk 
about as big as ones Arm, and a Foot and a half 

ILofC.a 



100 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Prickle 
Pear. 



Popes 
Heads. 



Sugar- 
Canes. 



Manchinel. 



high. The Fruit is ordinarily about fix Pound 
weight; and is inclos'd with fhort prickly- 
Leaves like an Artichoke. They do not ftrip, 
but pare off thefe Leaves to get at the Fruit; 
which hath no Stone or Kernel in it. 'Tis very 
juicy ; and fome fancy it to ref emble the [90] 
Taft of all the moft delicious Fruits one can 
imagine mix'd together. It ripens at all times 
of the Year, and is rais'd from new Plants. 
The Leaves of the Plant are broad, about a Foot 
long, and grow from the Root. 

On the Main alfo grows the Prickle Pear, 
which is a thick-leav'd Plant about four Foot 
high, full of Prickles all over. That which they 
call the Pear grows at the Extremity of the 
Leaf. It's a good Fruit, much eaten by the 
Indians and others. 

There are Popes Heads, as we call them, on 
the Main. They are a Plant or Shrub growing 
like a Mole-hill, and full of Spurs a Span long, 
fharp, thick and hard, with a black Point. 
They make a very good Fence, galling the Feet 
and Legs of any who come among them. 

They have Sugar- Canes on the IJlhmus\ but 
the Indians make no other ufe of them, than to 
chew them and fuck out the Juice. 

There is on the IJlands, a Tree which is called 
Manchinel, and its Fruit the Manchinel Apple. 
'Tis in Smell and Colour like a lovely pleafant 
Apple, fmall and fragrant, but of a poifonous 
[91] Nature; for if any eat of any Living Crea- 
ture that has happen 'd to feed on that Fruit, 
they are poifoned thereby, tho' perhaps not 
mortally. The Trees grow in green Spots ; they 



WAFER'S DARIEN 101 

are low, with a large Body, fpreading out and 
full of Leaves. I have heard that the Wood hath 
been us'd in fine carv'd or inlay 'd Works; for 
it is delicately grain'd. But there is danger in 
cutting it, the very Sap being fo poifonous, as 
to blifter the part which any of the Chips ftrike 
upon as they fly off. A French-man of our 
Company lying under one of thefe Trees, in 
one of the Samballoes , to refrefh himfelf, the 
Rain-water trickling down thence on his Head 
and Breaft, bliftered him all over, as if he had 
been beftrewed with Cantharides* His Life was 
faved with much difficulty; and even when 
cured, there remained Scars, like thofe after 
the Small- Pox. 

The Maho Tree, which grows here is about as Maho Tree. 
big as an Afh. Another fort of Maho, which is 
more common is fmaller, and grows in moift 
fwampy Places, by the fides of Rivers, or near 
the Sea. Its Bark is [92] ragged like tattered 

* Ringrose, p. 44, says that, while bathing in the pond from 
which the ship's water-casks were being filled, at Cayboa 
Island, north of Panama, "as I was washing my self, and 
standing under a Manzanilla-tree, a small shower of rain 
hapned to fall on the tree, and from thence dropped on my 
skin. These drops caused me to break out all over my body 
into red spots, of which I was not well for the space of a week 
after." In the History of the Bticaniers (London, Malthus, 
1684), p. 181, it is said that " the Tree called Mane anil I a, or 
the Dwarf Apple, is found here, whose Fruit is of a most 
venemous quality, for being eaten by any Person, immediately 
he changeth colour, and is taken with such a thirst, that no 
water can quench, and within a little dies perfectly mad. Yea, 
if a Fish eat of it (as sometimes they do) it is poisonous. ' ' 
The sap of the manchineel is very injurious to the eyes, but 
otherwise not as dangerous, at least not to persons in good 
health, as the above would imply. 



102 WAFER'S DARIEN 

Canvafs; if you lay hold on a piece of it, 'twill 
rip off in Strings to the top of the Tree ; the 
Strings are of a great length, (lender, and very 
ftrong. Ropes are made of it for Cables, and 
Rigging for fmall Veffels. The way the Indians 
order it, is thus: They ftrip off the Bark in 
great flakes : Out of them they draw greater or 
leffer Strings as they pleafe. Thefe they beat 
and clean, and twift into Threads and Cords, by 
rolling them between the Palm of the Hand, 
and the top of the Knee or Thigh, as our Shoo- 
makers twift their Ends, but much quicker. Of 
thefe they make Nets for Fifhing, but only for 
great Fifh as Tarpoms, or the like. 
Calaba/h The Tree which bears the Calabafh is fhort 

Tree. an( j thick, the Calabafh grows up and down 

among the Boughs, as our Apples do. It is of a 
Globular figure, the out-fide of it an hard Shell, 
holding the quantity of 2, 3, 4, or 5 Quarts. 
Thefe Shells the Indians ufe as Veffels for 
many occafions. There are two forts of thefe 
Trees, but the difference is chiefly in the Fruit ; 
that of the one being fweet, [93] the other 
bitter. The Subftance of both is Spongy and 
Juicy. That of the fweeter fort does yet incline 
to a tart, fourifh Taft. The Indians, however, 
eat them frequently in a March, tho' they are 
not very delightful. They only fuck out the 
Juice, and fpit out the reft. The bitter fort is 
not eatable, but is very Medicinal. They are 
good in Tertian's; and a Decodtion of them in a 
Clyfter is an admirable Specifick in the Tortious 
of the Guts or dry Gripes. The Calabafh Shells 
are almoft as hard as thofe of the Coco-nuts, but 



WAFER'S DARIEN 103 

not half fo thick. The Darien Calabafh is 
painted, and much efteem'd by the Spaniards. 

There are Gourds alfo which grow creeping Gourds. 
along the Ground, or climbing up Trees in great 
quantities, like Pompions or Vines. Of thefe 
alfo there are two Sorts, a Sweet and a Bitter : 
The Sweet eatable, but not defirable ; the Bitter 
medicinal in the PaJJio Iliaca, Tertian's, Coftive- 
nefs, &c. taken in a Clyfter. But the Indians 
value both forts chiefly for their Shells ; and the 
larger fort of thefe ferve them by way of Pails 
and Buck-[94]ets, as Calabafhes do for Difhes, 
Cups and Drinking- Veffels. 

They have a Plant alfo which is of good ufe Silk-Grafs. 
to them, call'd by us Silk-Grafs ; tho' 'tis indeed 
a kind of Flag. It grows in great quantities in 
moift Places on the fides of Hills. The Roots 
are knobbed, and fhoot out into Leaves like a 
Sword-blade, as thick as ones Hand in the 
middle of the Leaf towards the Root, thinner 
towards the Edges and the top ; where it ends 
in a fharp Point, altogether like our Flags, fave 
that the Leaf is much broader, and a yard or 
two in length, and jagged at the Edges like a 
Saw or fome Reap-hooks. The Indians cut 
thefe Leaves when of a convenient Growth, and 
having dried them well in the Sun, they beat 
them into Strings like fine Flax, extraordinary 
ftrong, beyond any of our Flax or Hemp : For 
the Leaf it felf feems to be nothing but a Con- 
geries of Strings inclos'd with a Skin on each 
fide. They twift thefe Strings as they do thofe 
of the Mako-tvee, and make of them Ropes for 
Hammocks, Cordage of all forts, but efpecially 



104 WAFER'S DARIEN 

a finer kind of Nets for fmall Fifh. In Jamaica 
[95] the Shoomakers ufe this for Thread to few 
with, as being ftronger than any other. The 
Spanifh Women make Stockins of it, which are 
call'd Silk-grafs Stockins, and are fold very dear. 
They make of it alfo a kind of yellowifh Lace, 
which is much bought and worn by the Moftefa- 
women * in the Weft-Indian Plantations. 

There grows here a Tree about the bignefs 
of an Elm, the Wood of which is very light, and 
Light-wood, we therefore call it Light-wood. The Tree is 
itreight and well-bodied, and has a great Leaf 
like a Wall-nut. A Man may carry on his Back 
a great quantity of the Wood when cut down : 
Its Subftance refembles Cork, and is of a whitifh 
Colour ; but the Grain of it is rougher than Fir, 
or courfer yet, like that of the Cotton-tvee. I 
know not whether it has that fpongy Elafticity 
that Cork has ; yet I fhould think it an excellent 
Wood for making Tomkins, or Stopples for the 
Muzzles of great Guns. 'Tis fo very light in 
Water that three or four Logs of it, about as 
thick as ones Thigh and about four Foot long, 
fhall make a Rafter on which two or [96] three 
Men may go out to Sea. The Indians make 
large Rafters of it upon occafion, after this 
manner : They take Logs of this Wood not very 
big, and bind them together collaterally with 
Mako-Cords, making of them a kind of Floor. 
Then they lay another Range of Logs acrofs 
thefe, at fome diftance from each other, and 
peg them down to the former with long Pins of 

* Mestizo, half-breeds of European fathers. Commonly- 
reputed beautiful and otherwise attractive. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 105 

Macaw-wood ; and the Wood of the Float is fo 
foft, and tenacious withal, that it eafily gives 
admittance to the Peg upon driving, and clofes 
fait about it. The Floats, were they boarded, 
would refemble our Dyers-floats in the Thames at 
London ; and the Indians ufe them chiefly for 
Paffage crofs a great River where Canoa's or 
other Trees are wanting ; or for Fifhing. 

Another Tree they have which we call White- White- 
wood. The Body of it grows in heighth about ™ ood - 
1 8 or 20 Foot, like a large Willow, and about as 
thick as ones Thigh. The Leaf is like Senna, 
very fmall. The Wood is very hard, clofe and 
ponderous, and exceeding White, beyond any 
European Wood that ever I faw, and of a [97] 
very fine Grain : So that I cannot but think it 
would be very good for inlaying, or other 
Cabinet-work. I never faw this Tree any 
where but in this IJihmus. 

They have Tamarinds here of the brown fort, Tamarind. 
and good, but not well Manur'd. The Tree is a fair 
fpreading one, and very large of the kind. The 
Tree grows ufually in a fandy Soil, near a River. 

The Tree alfo that bears the LocuJt-fru.it, Locuji- 
grows here. The Wild fort is found in great Tree - 
abundance, 'tis not much unlike the Tamarind. 

They have a Bajiard-Cinnamon alfo, bearing a Bajiard- 
Cod fhorter than a Bean-cod, but thicker, it Cinnamon. 
grows only on the Main. 

Bamboes grow here but too plentifully, like Bamboes. 
a Briar, whole Copfes of them. The Branches 
or Canes grow in clufters 20 or 30 or more of 
them from one Root, and guarded with Prickles. 
They render the Places where they grow 



106 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Hollow- 
Bamboes. 



Mangrove. 



almoft impaffable, which are generally fwampy 
Grounds, or the fides of Rivers. They are 
found moftly on the Main, the IJlands having 
only foine few of them. 

[98] The Hollow Bamboes are on the Main only. 
They grow twenty or thirty Foot in heighth, 
and as thick as ones Thigh. They have Knots 
all along at the diitance of about a Foot and an 
half. All the Space from Knot to Knot is hol- 
low, and of the Capacity ufually of a Gallon or 
more, and thefe are ferviceable on many Occa- 
fions. The Leaves of this Shrub are like Eldern- 
leaves, in a Clufter at the top of each Cane, 
and thefe alfo grow thick together in Copfes. 

Mangrove-Trees grow out of the Water, both 
in the Iflands and the Main, riling from feveral 
Roots like Stilts entangled one among another. 
The Roots or Stumps appear fome Feet above 
Water, riling from a pretty depth alfo from 
under the Surface of it, and at length they 
unite all together, Arbour- wife, into the Body 
of a lufty tall Tree, of a Foot or two Diameter. 
There is fcarce any palling along where thefe 
Trees grow, the Roots of them are fo blended 
together. The Bark of the Mangroves that 
grows in Salt Water is of a red Colour, and is 
us'd for tanning of Leather. I have fome 
Reafon to [99] think that the Tree from whence 
the Peruvian or Jefuits Bark is fetcht is of the 
Mangrove kind; * for when I was laft at Arica in 
Peru, I faw a Caravan of about 20 Mules with 
this Bark juft come in, and then unlading at a 

* Except that the bark of both is used in medicine, the two 
are nowise related. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 107 

Store-houfe. One of our Company, who fpake 
Spanifh, ask'd a Spaniard who guided the Drove, 
from whence he fetch' d that Bark? He 
anfwered, from a great frefh Water Lake behind 
a Mountain a great way within Land; at the 
fame time pointing at a very high Ridge of 
Hills we faw at a great diftance from us, and 
the Sea. Being further examined as to the Tree 
it grew on, he fo defcrib'd it, by thefe intangled 
Stilts, and other Particulars, that our Interpreter 
laid to him, Sure it muft be a Mangrove-Tree I 
The Spaniard anfwer'd, Yes, a frefh-water 
Mangrove : Yet he faid it was a very fmall Tree, 
which the Mangrove is not, unlefs this fhould 
be a Dwarf kind of it. We brought away with 
us feveral Bundles of this Bark, and I found it 
to be the right fort, by the frequent ufe I 
made of it in Virginia and elfewhere; and I 
have fome of it now by me. 

[ioo] They have two forts of Pepper, the one Pepper* 
called Bell-Pepper, the other Bird-Pepper, and 
great quantities of each, much ufed by the 
Indians. Each fort grows on a Weed, or Shrub- 
by Bufh about a Yard high. The Bird-Pepper 
has the fmaller Leaf, and is by the Indians 
better efteemed than the other, for they eat a 
great deal of it. 

There is on the Main a Red fort of Wood that Red Wood.\ 
might be of good ufe for Dyers. It grows 
moftly towards the North-Sea Coaft, upon a 
River that runs towards the Samballoes, about 
two Miles from the Sea-fhore. I faw there 

* Capsicum, or chillies. 

t Logwood, also known as Campeachy wood. 



108 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Potato's. 

Yams. 

Caffava. 



great quantities of thefe Trees : They are thirty 
or forty Foot high, about as big as ones Thigh, 
and the out-fide is all along full of Cavities or 
Notches in the Bark. When the Wood is cut, 
it appears of a Yellowifh Red. With this, and 
a kind of Earth which they have up the Coun- 
try, the Indians die Cottons for their Hammocks 
and Gowns. I tried a little of it, which upon 
boiling two Hours in fair Water, turn'd it Red 
as Blood. I dipt therein a piece of Cotton, 
which it died of a good Red ; and when I wafh'd 
it, it turn'd [101] but a little paler, which I im- 
puted to the want only of fomething to fix the 
Colour; for no wafhing could fetch out the 
Tindture. 'Twas a bright and gloffy Red, very 
lively. 

The Indians have feveral Roots which they 
plant ; efpecially Potato's, which they roaft and 
eat. 

They do the fame alfo by Yams, of which 
they have two forts, a White and a Purple. 

They have a Root call'd Caffava, not much 
unlike a Parfnip. There are two forts alfo of 
thefe, a Sweet and a Poifonous. The Sweet Sort 
they roaft and eat as they do Potato s or Yams. 
Of the Poifonous they make Bread, having firft 
prefs'd out the Juice, which is noxious. Part 
of the remaining Subftance they grate to a 
Powder; and having a Baking- ft one or Trivet 
fet over a Fire, they ftrew the Flower over the 
hot Stone gradually, which bakes it all to a 
Cake, the bottom hard-bak'd and brown, the 
reft rough and white, like our Oat-cakes ; they 
ufe to hang them on the Houfes or Hedges, 




jJuInJ/^ £&M*ir Holes inCeunttl^ wXSf 



my hbacxr af?<?K&kir way- 



yZueftu P. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 109 

where they dry and grow crifp. In Jamaica 
they ufe them fre-[i02]quently inftead of Bread ; 
and fo in other of the Wejl-Indian Iflands. 

Thefe Indians have Tobacco among them. It Tobacco. 
grows as the Tobacco in Virginia, but is not fo 
ftrong : Perhaps for want of tranfplanting and 
manuring, which the Indians don't well under- 
stand ; for they only raife it from the Seed in 
their Plantations. When 'tis dried and cured 
they ftrip it from the Stalks ; and laying two or 
three Leaves upon one another, they roll up all 
together fide-ways into a long Roll, yet leaving 
a little hollow. Round this they roll other 
Leaves one after another, in the fame manner 
but clofe and hard, till the Roll be as big as 
ones Wrift, and two or three Feet in length. 
Their way of Smoaking when they are in Com- Indian 
pany together is thus : A Boy lights one end of wa y of # 
a Roll and burns it to a Coal, wetting the part 
next it to keep it from wafting too faft. The 
End fo lighted he puts into his Mouth, and 
blows the Smoak through the whole length of 
the Roll into the Face of every one of the Com- 
pany or Council, tho' there be 2 or 300 of them. 
Then they, fitting in their ufual Pofture upon 
[103] Forms, make, with their Hands held hol- 
low together, a kind of Funnel round their 
Mouths and Nofes. Into this they receive the 
Smoak as 'tis blown upon them, fnuffing it up 
greedily and ftrongly as long as ever they are 
able to hold their Breath, and feeming to blefs 
themfelves, as it were, with the Refrefhment 
it gives them. 



110 WAFER'S DARIEN 



[104] Of the Animals ; and firft of Beafts 
and Reptiles. 

THE Variety of Beafts in this Country is not 
very great; but the Land is fo fertile, 
that upon clearing any confiderable part 
of the Woods it would doubtlef s afford excellent 
Pafture, for the maintaining black Cattle, 
Swine, or whatever other Beafts 'tis ufual to 
bring out of Europe into thefe Climates. 

The Country has of its own a kind of Hog, 
Pecary. which is call'd Pecary, not much unlike a Vir- 

ginia Hog. 'Tis black, and has little fhort Legs, 
yet is pretty nimble. It has one thing very 
ftrange, that the Navel is not upon the Belly, 
but the Back : And what is more ftill, if upon 
killing a Pecary the Navel be not cut away from 
the Carkafs within three or four Hours after at 
fartheft, 'twill fo taint all the Flefh, as not only 
to render it [105] unfit to be eaten, but make it 
ftink infufferably. Elfe 'twill keep frefh fev- 
eral Days, and is very good wholefome Meat, 
nourifhing and well-tafted. The Indians barbe- 
cue it, when they would keep any of it longer : 
The manner in which they do it I fhall defcribe 
elfewhere. Thefe Creatures ufually herd 
together, and range about in Droves; and the 



WAFER'S DARIEN 111 

Indians either hunt them down with their Dogs, 
and fo ftrike them with their Lances, or elfe 
fhoot them with their Arrows, as they have 
opportunity. 

The Warree is another kind of Wild- Hog they Warree. 
have, which is alfo very good Meat. It has 
little Ears, but very great Tusks ; and the Hair 
or Briftles 'tis cover'd with, are long, ftrong 
and thickfet, like a courfe Furr all over its 
Body. The Warree is fierce, and fights with 
the Pecary, or any other Creature that comes in 
his way. The Indians hunt thefe alfo as the 
other, and manage their Flefh the fame way, 
except only as to what concerns the Navel ; the 
Angularity of which is peculiar to the Pecary. 

[106] They have confiderable flore of Deer Deer. 
alfo, refembling moft our Red Deer; but thefe 
they never hunt nor kill ; nor will they ever eat 
of their Flefh, tho' 'tis very good; but we were 
not fhy of it. Whether it be out of Superfti- 
tion, or for any other Reafon that they forbear 
them, I know not: But when they faw fome of 
our Men killing and eating of them, they not 
only refus'd to eat with them, but feem'd dif- 
pleas'd with them for it. Yet they preferve 
the Horns of thefe Deer, fetting them up in 
their Houfes; but they are fuch only as they 
fhed, for I never faw among them fo much as 
the Skin or Head of any of them, that might 
fhew they had been kill'd by the Indians; and 
they are too nimble for the Warree, if not a 
Match for him. 

The Dogs they have are fmall, not well-fhap'd, Dogs. 
their Hair rough and ftragling, like our 



112 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Mtmgrels. They ferve only to bark and ftart the 
Game, or by their barking give notice to the 
Hunters to fhoot their Arrows. They will run 
about in this manner from Morning to Night ; 
but are fuch meer whiffling Curs, that of 2 or 
300 [107] Beafts ftarted in a Day, they fhall fel- 
dom kill above two or three ; and thef e not by 
running them down, but by getting them at a 
Bay and befetting them, till the Hunters can 
come up with them. Large ftrong Dogs would 
make better Work here ; and it might be a very 
acceptable Thing to the Indians to tranfport 
hither a Breed of fuch : But then they muft keep 
to their Houfes, or they would be in danger of 
running Wild, in this Country. 

Rabbits. Here are Rabbits, call'd by our Englifh, Indian 

Conies. They are as large as our Hares; 
but I know not that this Country has any 
Hares. Thefe Rabbits have no Tails, and 
but little fhort Ears; and the Claws of their 
Feet are long. They lodge in the Roots of 
Trees, making no Burrows; and the Indians 
hunt them, but there is no great plenty of them. 
They are very good Meat, and eat rather 
moifter than ours. 

Monkeys. There are great Droves of Monkeys, fome of 

them white, but moft of them black ; fome have 
Beards, others are beardlefs. They are of a 
middle Size, yet extraordinary fat at the [108] 
dry Seafon, when the Fruits are ripe ; and they 
are very good Meat, for we ate of them very 
plentifully. The Indians were fhy of eating 
them for a while ; but they f oon were perf uaded 
to it, by feeing us feed on them fo heartily. In 



WAFER'S DARIEN 113 

the Rainy Seafon they have often Worms in 
their Bowels. I have taken a handful of them 
out of one Monkey we cut open ; and f ome of 
them 7 or 8 Foot long. They are a very wag- 
gifh kind of Monkey, and plaid a thoufand 
antick Tricks as we march 'd at any time through 
the Woods, skipping from Bough to Bough, with 
the young ones hanging at the old ones Back, 
making Faces at us, chattering, and, if they had 
opportunity, piffing down purpofely on our 
Heads. To pafs from top to top of high Trees, 
whofe Branches are a little too far afunder for 
their Leaping, they will fometimes hang down 
by one anothers Tails in a Chain ; and fwinging 
in that manner, the lowermoft catches hold of a 
Bough of the other Tree, and draws up the reft 
of them.* 

[109] Here are no Bullocks, Horfes, AfTes, No Euro- 
Sheep, Goats, or other fuch Beafts as we have for $ ean Cattel - 
Food or Service. They are exceedingly pefter'd 
with Mice and Rats, which are moftly Grey ; and Rats and 
a Brood of Cats therefore to deftroy thefe, might Mtce% 
be as acceptable a Prefent to them as better Cats much 
Dogs for their Hunting. When I left the IJlhmus, efteem ' d - 
2 of the Indians who came aboard the fame Veffel 
at the Samballoe's, went a Cruifmg with us 
towards the Corn-Ijlands and Cartagene : And 
when they were difpos'd to return, and we were 
ftudying to oblige 'em with fome Prefent, one 
of them fpied a Cat we had aboard, and beg'd 

*The " Member of the Royal Society " in the second edition 
describes the black and satyr monkeys, of whom the latter 
" are bigger than the last and black like them, with very long 
Beards ; these are very leacherous, and often fall foul on the 
Negro Women." 



114 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Infects and 
Vermin. 



Soldier- 
Infedt.t 



Delicious 
Meat. 



it: Which we had no fooner given him, but he 
and his Confort, without flaying for any other 
Gift, went immediately into their Canoa, and 
padled off with abundance of Joy. They had 
learnt the ufe of Cats while they were aboard.* 

They have Snakes, but of what kind I don't 
well remember ; nor did I fee or hear any Rattle- 
Snakes. Spiders they have many, very large, 
but not poifonous. They have Lice in their 
Heads; which they feel out [no] with their 
Fingers, and eat as they catch them. 

There is a fort of Infedt like a Snail in great 
plenty among the Samballoe's, which is call'd 
the SoMier-InieiSt; but I don't remember I faw 
any of them upon the Main. The reafon of the 
Name, is becaufe of the Colour; for one third 
part of his Body, about his Head, which is out 
of the Shell, is in Shape and Colour like a boil'd 
Shrimp, with little Claws, and 2 larger like 
thofe of a Crab. That part within the Shell, 
the Tail efpecially, is eatable, and is good Food, 
very well tafted and delicious, like Marrow. 
We thruft a Skuer through this part, and roaft 
a pretty many of them in a row. The forepart 
is bony, and ufelefs. They feed upon the 
Ground, eating what falls from Trees: And 
they have under the Chin a little Bag, into 
which they put a referve of Food. Befide this, 
they have in them a little Sand Bag, which muft 

* The ' ' Member of the Royal Society ' ' describes twenty- 
nine beasts, of which No. 27 is " The Sloath. Is a very slow 
paced Animal, taking a whole Day in going fifty Paces: he is 
about the bigness of a middling Fox ; living on Trees, eating 
the Leaves, but never drinks. ' ' 

t A variety of the hermit crab. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 115 

always be taken out when they are to be eaten. 

This Bag is commonly pretty full of Sand : And Sand-bag. 

Conchs and Welks, and other Shell-flfh, have 

ufually Sand in a Vef-[m]fel that runs the 

length of the Body, in manner of a Gut; 

which we are forc'd to take out, for elfe they 

would be gritty in ones Teeth. If thefe Soldiers 

eat of any of the Manchineel- Apples which drop Poifonous if 

from the Trees, their Flefh becomes fo infedted fed with 

with that virulent Juice, as to poifon in a manner 

thofe who eat of it : And we have had fome of 

our Company very fick by eating fuch as had 

fed on Manchineel; but after a while 'twould 

wear off again, without further damage. The 

Oil of thefe Infects is a moft Soveraign Remedy The Oil 

for any Sprain or Contufion. I have found it an excellent 

Salve 
f o, as many others have done frequently : The 

Indians ufe it that way very fuccefsfully, and 
many of the Privateers in the Wes2-Indies : And 
our Men fought them as much for the Oil, as 
for the fake of eating them. The Oil is of a 
yellow Colour, like Wax, but of the Confiftency 
of Palm-Oil. 

On the Samballoe s I think there are alfo Land- Land- 
Crabs, tho' but few : But in the Caribbee-Iftands, Cral>s < 
among which I have been Cruifing, and efpe- 
cially on Anguilla, they are very numerous, and where. 
fome very large, as big as the [112] largelt Sea- 
Crabs that are fold at London. They have them 
alfo in other of the Wejl- India Iflands ; but on 
Anguilla they fwarm ; and a little Ifland near it Anguilla. 
has fuch multitudes of them, that 'tis call'd 
Crab-Ifiand. They are excellent good Meat, Cra6-ma.ua. 
and are the main Support of the Inhabitants, Good Meat, 



116 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



fatten 'd 

with 

Potato's. 

Alligators. 



Guano's. 



Lizards* 



who range about a Crabbing, as they call it. 
After a Shower of Rain they will come abroad ; 
and then is the beft time to look out for them. 
They live in Holes or Burrows like Rabbits, 
which they dig for themfelves with their Claws. 
When they are upon the March they never go 
about, nor turn their Backs, but crawl over any 
thing that lies in their way, guarding with their 
great Claws, while they creep with the small 
ones ; and whatever they lay hold of they pinch 
very feverely. The Inhabitants of fome of 
thefe Ifles, when they take any of them, put 
them for three or four Days into a piece of 
Potato-ground., to fatten them ; for which they 
are faid to eat much the better. 

Alligator's and Guano's, which are alfo very 
good Meat, efpecially the Tail of the Alligator, 
I have eaten in [113] feveral Parts of the Weft- 
Indies; but I don't remember my feeing either 
of them in the Ifthmus. The Guano is all over 
very good Meat, prefer 'd to a Pullet or Chick- 
en, either for the Meat or Broth. Their Eggs 
alfo are very good; but thofe of the Alligator 
have too much of a musky Flavour, and fome- 
times fmell very ftrong of it. There are up 
and down the Ifthmus a great many Lizards, 

*The " Member of the Royal Society " describes six lizards 
of which No. 5 is " The House Lizzard. Is a friendly Animal ' 
for if it sees you in danger of any hurtful Creature whilst 
asleep, it will come and awake you. 

" 6. The Blew-taiVd Lizzard. Is not thicker than a 
Swan-quill, and but three Inches long ; its body smooth and 
squarish ; these are said to be poysonous, and thirst after the 
Blood of breeding Women : and they report, that if a Woman, 
or but her cloaths do touch this Creature, she will afterwards 
prove barren." 



WAFER'S DARIEN 117 

green, and red-fpeckled; but thofe in the 
Swampy Land and Thickets look more black 
or rufty. They are none of them large ; gen- 
erally lefs than a Span. I never faw the Indians 
eat of them. They are pretty innocent familiar 
Creatures, and the Indians fuffer them to creep 
up and down their Houfes. 

They have Frogs and Toads, and other 
f mailer Infedts ; but I took no particular Notice 
of them. 



118 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



[114] The Birds, and flying Infedls. 

THEY have feveral forts of Birds, fome of 
Kinds unknown to us; and remarkable 
both for their Beauty, and the good 
Relifh of their Flefh. 

There is one ftately kind of Land-bird, pretty 
common among the Woods on the Ifthmus, 

CMcaly- which is call'd by the Indians Chicaly-Chicaly. 

Chicaly. j ts Nc-ife is fomewhat like a Cuckow's, but 
fharper and quicker. 'Tis a large and long 
Bird, and has a long Tail, which he carries 
upright like a Dunghill Cock. His Feathers 
are of great variety of fine lively Colours, red, 
blue, &c. The Indians make a fort of Aprons,* 
fometimes, of the Feathers which grow on his 
Back ; but thef e they f eldom wear. This Bird 
keeps moftly on the Trees, flying from one to 
another, and but rarely to the Ground. He 
feeds on Fruit. His Flefh is blackifh, and of a 
courfe Grain, yet pretty good Meat. 

Quam j [115] The Quam is alfo a large and long Land- 

bird. He feeds alfo upon Fruits, and flies up 
and down the Trees. His Wings are of a Dun 

* Ceremonial or festival garments. 

t Dampier, p. 19, says that, on the day after he parted from 
Wafer, " This evening I killed a Quaum, a large Bird as big 
as a Turkey, wherewith we treated our Guides. ' ' 



WAFER'S DARIEN 119 

Colour, but his Tail is very dark, fhort, ftumpy, 
and upright. This Bird is much better Meat 
than the other. 

There is alfo a Ruffet-colour'd Land-bird, Anonymous, 
fhap'd not unlike a Partridge; but has a longer 
Neck and Legs, yet a fhort Tail. He runs moft 
on the Ground, and feldom flies. His Flefh is 
very good Meat. 

The Corrofou is a large, black Land-bird, Corro/ou. 
heavy and big as a Turkey-hen ; but the Hen is 
not fo black as the Cock. The Cock has on his 
Head a fine Crown or Comb of yellow Feathers, 
which he moves to and fro as he pleafes : He 
has Gills alfo like a Turkey ; but the Hen has 
neither Plume nor Gills. They live on the 
Trees, and feed on Fruits. They Sing or make 
a Noife big and grofs, yet very fweet and 
delightful; efpecially to the Indians, who in- 
deavour to imitate them : And the Indians and 
they will fometimes anfwer one another this 
way, and the Indians dif cover their Haunts by 
it. The old [116] ones alfo call their young 
ones by this Sound. The Flefh is fomewhat 
tough, but otherwife very good and well-tafted 
Meat. The Indians either throw the Bones of 
the Corrofou into the River, or make a Hole and 
bury them, to keep them from their Dogs, 
being thought unwholfome for the Dogs to 
eat; and the Indians fay they will make the 
Dogs run mad: Neither do the Englifh in the 
Weft- Indies let the Dogs eat of them. The 
Indians fhoot down all thefe Birds with their 
Arrows. 

They have Parrots good ftore, fome blue and Parrots. 



120 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Parakites. 



Macaw- 
birds. 



fome green, for Shape and Size like the gen- 
erality of the Parrots we have from Jamaica. 
There is here great variety of them, and they 
are very good Meat. 

They have alfo many Parakites, moft of them 
Green; generally much the fame as in other 
Places. They don't fort with the Parrots, but 
go in large Flights by themfelves. 

Macaw-birds are here alfo in good plenty. 
'Tis fhap'd not much unlike a Parrot, but is as 
large again as the biggeft of them. It has a 
Bill like a Hawk's; and a bufhy Tail, with [117] 
two or three long ftragling Feathers, all Red 
or Blue : The Feathers all over the Body are of 
feveral very bright and lovely Colours, Blue, 
Green and Red. The Pinions of the Wings of 
fome of them are all Red, of others all Blue, 
and the Beaks yellow. They make a great 
Noife in a Morning, very hoarfe and deep, like 
Men who fpeak much in the Throat. The 
Indians keep thefe Birds tame, as we do Parrots, 
or Mag-pies : But after they have kept them clofe 
fome time, and taught them to fpeak fome 
Words in their Language, they fuffer them to 
go abroad in the Day-time into the Woods, 
among the wild ones ; from whence they will on 
their own accord return in the Evening to the 
Indian s Houfes or Plantations, and give notice 
of their arrival by their fluttering and prating. 
They will exadtly imitate the Indian' 's Voices, 
and their way of Singing, and they will call the 
Chicaly-Chicaly in its own Note, as exadtly as the 
Indians themfelves, whom I have obferv'd to be 
very expert at it. 'Tis the moft beautiful and 



WAFER'S DARIEN 121 

pleafant Bird that ever I [118] faw; and the 
Flefh is fweet-tafted enough, but black and 
tough. 

There is alfo a fort of Wood-pecker, with fuch Wood- 
a long flender Bill as that kind of Birds have. P ecker - 
Thefe have ftrong Claws, wherewith they climb 
up and down the Bodies of Trees, and ftick 
very clofe to them. They are pied like our 
Mag- pies, white and black; but more finely, 
being a fmaller Bird. The Flefh is of an earthy 
unpleafant Taft. I tafted of them as I was 
travelling with my Companions, for Hunger 
then made us glad of any thing of Food ; but 
the Indians don't eat of them. 

They have great plenty of Poultry tame about Dunghil 
their Houfes, of 2 forts, a greater and a lefs. Fowl - 
The larger fort are much like ours, of different 
Colours and Breed, as Copple-crown'd, the com- 
mon Dunghil Cock and Hen, and of the Game 
kind; tho' thefe Indians don't delight in Cock- 
fighting as thofe of Java do. The fmaller fort 
are feather'd about the Legs like Carrier- 
pigeons, and have very bufhy Tails, which they 
carry upright ; and the tips of the Wings are 
generally black. This fmall fort keep a-[no/] 
part from the other. They all keep the fame 
Crowing Seafon, before Day, as our Cocks do. 
They are conftantly about the Houfes, not rang- 
ing far into the Woods; and both their Flefh 
and their Eggs are as well-tafted as any we have 
in England; and they are generally fatter; for 
the Indians give them Maiz good ftore, which is 
very fattening. 

Thefe are all the kinds of Land-birds I noted 



122 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Small Birds, among them : Though there are many f mall 
ones which I did not f o particularly obferve ; 
and thefe generally very pretty and mufical.* 

About the Sambaloes and the other Iflands, and 
the Sea-Coaft, on the North-fide efpecially, 

Sea-fowl. there are great numbers of Sea-fowl. The 
South-Sea Coaft, more to Windward, has many 
of them too ; but whether it be that the Bay of 
Panama does not afford fo many Fifh to invite 
them, for 'tis not near fo well-ftock'd with Fifh 
as the Coaft about the Samballoes, there are but 
very few Sea-fowl on the South-Sea Coaft of the 
IJihmus, to what there are on the North-Coaft ; 

Pelican. and as to Pelicans particularly, which [120] are 
very frequent among the Samballoes, and all 
along the Weft-India Coafts, I don't remember 
that I ever faw one of them any where in the 
South Seas. 

*The " Member of the Royal Society " describes 118 birds, 
of which No. 5 is "The Christmas- Bird. Is almost as big as a 
Pidgeon, it has about the Throat many inch-long black Watles ; 
it never cries but in December and begginning of January, 
but then may be heard a great way off. . . . 

"8. The Unicorn-Bird. Has a Horn on his Head above 
two Inches long, which is said to be a great Counter-poyson. 
The Female bigger than a Swan, and the Male twice that 
bigness. . . . 

"20. The red-legg'd Duck. The Feet of these when 
roasted dye both Hands and Linnen red. 

"21. The crested Eagle. His cry is like a Hen that has 
lost its young. . . . 

" 60. The Great Wide-Mouth. Is as big as an Owl; 
when it gapes one may easily put in ones fist. . . . 

" 67. The Little Tame-Owl. Its of the bigness of a 
Throstle; and plays with Men, making divers antick 
Faces. . . . 

" 81. The Brown-headed Parrakeet. Is a beautiful 
Bird." 



WAFER'S DARIEN 123 

The Pelican is a large Bird, with a great Beak, 
fhort-legg'd like a Goofe; and has a long Neck, 
which it holds upright like a Swan. The 
Feathers are of dark Grey; 'tis Web-footed. 
Under the Throat hangs a Bag or Pouch, which, 
when fiU'd, is as large as both ones Fifts. The 
Subftance of it is a thin Membrane, of a fine, 
grey, afhy Colour. The Seamen kill them for 
the Sake of thefe Bags, to make Tobacco-pouches 
of them ; for, when dry, they will hold a Pound 
of Tobacco; and by a Bullet hung in them, they 
are foon brought into Shape. The Pelican flies 
heavy and low ; we find nothing but Fif h in his 
Maw, for that is his Food. His Pouch, as well 
as Stomach, has Fifh found in it: So that it 
feems likely that the Pouch is a Bag intended 
to keep a Referve of Food. I have never feen 
any of the old Pelicans eaten; but the young 
ones are faid to be Meat good enough, but I 
have never eaten of any of them. 

[121] There are Cormorants alfo among the Cormo- 
Samballoes, which for Size and Shape are like rants - 
Ducks, but rather lefs. They are black, but 
have a white Spot on the Breaft. Tho' they are 
Web-footed, as other Water-fowl are, yet they 
pitch on Trees and Shrubs by the Water- fide. 
I have never heard of any one's eating of thefe, 
for their Flefh is thought to be too courfe and 
rank. 

There are a great many Sea- Gulls alfo and Sea-Gulls 
Sea-Pies, on that Coaft ; both of them much like and Sea - 
ours, but rather fmaller. The Flefh of both Pies ' 
thefe is eaten commonly enough, and 'tis toler- 
able good Meat, but of a Fifhy Taft, as Sea- fowl 



124 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Flying 
Infedts 



ufually are. Yet to correct this Taft, when we 
kill'd any Sea-Gulls, Sea- Pies, Boobies, or the 
like, on any Shore, we us'd to make a Hole in 
the hot Sand, and there bury them for eight or 
ten Hours, with their Feathers on, and Guts in 
them : And upon dreffmg them afterwards, we 
found the Flefh tenderer, and the Taft not fo 
rank nor fifhy. 

Bats. There are Bats, on the IJlhmus, the Bodies of 

which are as large as [122] Pigeons, and their 
Wings extended to a proportionable length and 
breadth ; with Claws at the Joints of the Wings, 
by which they cling to any thing. They much 
haunt old Houfes and deferted Plantations. 

Of Flying Infedts, befide the Moskito's or 
Gnats before-mention'd, there are up and down 
the IJlhmus Wafps and Beetles, and Flies of 

Shining Fly. feveral kinds: particularly the Shining Fly, 
which fhines in the Night like a Glow-worm ; 
and where there are many of them in a Thicket, 
they appear in the Night like fo many Sparks 
of Fire. 

Bees, They have Bees alfo, and confequently Hony 

and Wax. The Bees are of two forts ; the one 
fhort and thick, and its Colour inclining to Red ; 
the other blackifh, long and flender. They neft 
on the tops and in the holes of Trees; which 
the Indians climb, and thruft their Arms into 
their Neft, to get the Combs. Their Arms will 
be cover' d with Bees, upon their drawing them 
back; yet I never perceiv'd they were ftung by 
them : And I have had many of them at a time 
upon my naked Body, with-[i23]out being 
ftung; fo that I have been inclin'd to think 



WAFER'S DARIEN 125 

they have no Stings: But that's a thing I never 
examin'd. The Indians fometimes burn down 
the Trees to get at the Combs, efpecially if they 
be high and difficult to climb. The Hony they Hony. 
mix with Water, and drink it : But they make 
no ufe of the Wax, that ever I faw ; ufing for Wax. 
Candles a fort of light Wood, which they keep 
in their Houfes for that purpofe. 

They have Ants with Wings, large and long, Ants. 
as well as thofe which are Reptile only. They 
raife Hillocks like ours: They fting, and are 
very troublef ome ; efpecially when they get into 
the Houfes, as they frequently do. They 
fwarm up and down the Samballoes and the other 
Neighbouring Ifles, as well as on the IJihmus it 
f elf ; and there is no lying down to Reft on any 
piece of Ground where they are. Neither do 
the Indians care to tie their Hammocks to any 
Trees near the Ant-hills; for the Ants would 
climb up fuch Trees, and foon get into their 
Hammocks. 



126 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



[124] Of the Fifh. 



Sea-fifh. 



Tarpom. 



Sharks. 



Dog-fifh. 
Cavally. 



THE North-Sea Coaft, as I intimated, abounds 
in Fifh, and has great variety of them. 
Thofe which I have had the opportunity 
of feeing, are chiefly thefe : 

The Tarpom, which is a large and firm Fifh, 
eating in Flakes like Salmon or Cod. They are 
fome of 50 or 60 Pound weight and upwards. 
One of them afforded a good Dinner once to 
about ten of us, as we were cruifing towards the 
Coaft of Cartagene ; befide a good quantity of Oil 
we got out of the Fat. 

Sharks are alfo found in thefe Seas; tho' not 
fo commonly about the Samballoes, as on other 
of the Weft- India Coafls. 

There is a Fifh there like the Shark, but 
much fmaller and fweeter Meat. Its Mouth is 
alfo longer and narrower than the Sharks; 
neither has he more than one Row of Teeth. 
Our Seamen us'd to call this the Dog-fifh. 

[125] The Cavally is found among the Sambal- 
loes. 'Tis a fmall Fifh, clean, long and flender, 
much about the fize of a Macarel ; a very fine 
lively Fifh, with a bright, large Eye; and 'tis 
very good Meat, moift and well-tafted. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 127 

Old-wives, which is a flat kind of Fifh, and Old-wives. 
good Meat, are there alfo. 

They have Paracoods alfo, which are a long Paracoods. 
and round Fifh, about as large as a well-grown 
Pike, but ufually much longer. They are gen- 
erally very good Meat; and here efpecially: 
But there are fome particular Banks off at Sea, 
where you can take no Paracoods but what are 
poifonous. Whether it be from fome particular 
Feed they have there, or from what other Caufe, 
I know not; but I have known feveral Men 
poifon'd with them, to that degree as to have 
their Hair and Nails come off; and fome have 
died with eating them. The Antidote for this 
is faid to be the Back-bone of the Fifh, dried and 
beaten to a Powder, and given in any Liquor. 
I can't vouch for the Succefs of this my felf ; 
but feveral have told me, That they have us'd 
it themf elves, [126] when they have found 
themfelves fick with eating any Paracood; but 
that upon taking the Bone thus powder'd, they 
have found no other ill Effect, but only a Num- 
mednefs in their Limbs, and a Weaknefs for 
fome time after. Some will pretend to diftin- 
guifh a poifonous Paracood from a wholefome 
one, by the Liver; which as foon as they have 
taken the Fifh, they pull out and taft. If it 
taft fweet, they drefs and eat the Fifh without 
any Fear; but if the Liver be bitter, or bite the 
Tongue like Pepper, they conclude the Fifh to 
be naught, and throw it away. 

There is another fort of Fifh on the North- 
Sea Coaft, which our Sea-men call Gar-Mh.: Gar-fiih. 
Some of them are near two Foot long. They 



128 WAFER'S DARIEN 

have a long Bone on the Snout, of about a 3d 

part the length of the Body ; and 'tis very fharp 

at the end. They will glide along the Surface 

of the Water as fwift as a Swallow, gliding thus 

on the Surface, and leaping out of the Water, 

alternately, 30 or 40 times together. They 

move with such a Force, that, as I have been 

inform 'd, they will run their Snout through the 

[127] fide of a Canoa; and 'tis dangerous for a 

Man who is Swimming to meet with them, left 

they ftrike through him. The Back-bone looks 

blewifh, of a Colour towards a Saphire. The 

Flefh is very good Meat. 

Sculpins. There are Sculpins alfo, a Fifh about a Foot 

long, with Prickles all about him: They ftrip 

them of their prickly Skin, and then drefs them. 

They are very good Meat. 

Sting-rays, There are in the North- Sea many other Fifh 

Parrot- fifh, -fo^fe thefe, as Sting-rays, Parrot-fifh, Snooks, 

Conger- Conger-Eels, &c. and many others, probably, 

Eels, &c. that I have neither feen nor heard of; for 'tis a 

Sea very well ftor'd with Fifh. 
Sheii-fifh. Of Shell-fifh, there are Conchs all along the 

Conchs. Samballoes in abundance. Their Shells are very 

large, winding within like a Snail-fhell; the 
Mouth of the Shell is flat, and very wide, pro- 
portionably to the bignefs of the Shell. The 
Colour of it within is like Mother of Pearl; but 
without, 'tis courfe and rugged. The Fifh is 
(limy, the out-parts of it efpecially, and muft 
therefore be fcour'd with Sand before 'tis 
drefs' d for Eating. But within, the Sub fiance 
is hard and tough; for [128] which Reafon they 
beat them after they have fcour'd the out-fide: 



WAFER'S DARIEN 129 

But when they have been thus managed, they 
are a very fweet and good Fifh. 

There are Periwinkle 's good ftore among the Periwin- 
Rocks; which are alfo good Meat. We pick kles - 
them out of the Shells with Pins. 

The Limpits alfo ffcick to the Rocks hereabouts ; Limpits. 
and are rather better Meat than the other. 

There are no Oyfters nor Lobfters on the 
Coaft of the IJlhmus; but a few Crabs: and a Sea-Crabs. 
fort of Craw-fifh among the Rocks of the Sambal- Craw-fi/h. 
loes, as large as fmall Lobfters, but wanting the 
two great Claws. Thefe laft are very delicious 
Meat; but the Sea-Crabs are not very good. 

There are Fifh in the Rivers alfo of the Frefh-water 
IJlhmus; but I am not acquainted with many of Flfh - 
the kinds of them. 

There is one fort like our Roach, blackifh Anonymous, 
and very bony, in length about a Foot, very 
fweet, firm, and well-tafted. 

There is another Fifh in fhape like the Para- 
cood, but much fmaller, and a very good Fifh. 

[129] There is a Fifh like our Pike or Jack 
for Shape; but not above 8 or 10 Inches long. 
His Mouth is fomewhat like a Rabbits, his 
Teeth a little way within : His Lips are Cartila- 
ginous. 'Tis a very good Fifh. 

What other Fifh their Rivers yield, I know 
not ; for I took no very particular notice even of 
thefe. 

But I was more obferving of the Indians man- Manner of 
ner of Fifhing, at which they are very expert, Flfhin g- 
and manage it differently, according to the Place 
where they Fifh. In the Rivers Mouths, and 
upon the Sea-Coafts, in Sandy-bays where there 



130 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Dreffing 
their Fifh. 



Salt, how 
made. 



are no Rocks, they ufe Nets like our Drag-nets, 
made of Ma/io-batk, or Silk-grafs; which they 
carry out in their Canoa's. But in the Hill- 
Country, where the Streams are clear, and the 
Banks in many places Rocky, they go along the 
Banks up the River, looking narrowly into the 
Water to view the Fifh. When they fpy any 
to their Mind, they leap into the Water, and 
wade or f wim up and down after them ; and if 
the Fifh, through the Fright, betake themfelves 
into the holes in the Banks for Shelter, as they 
[130] frequently do, the Indians feel them out 
with their Hands and take them thence, as we 
do Chubs or Craw -fifh in our Rivers. By Night 
they bring with them Torches of Light-wood, 
and with thefe they fpy out the Fifh, and fo 
jump in, and purfue them into their Holes. 

For dreffing their Fifh ; they fir ft gut them, 
and then either boil them in an Earthen Pot, or 
elfe barbecue or broil them. 

For Salt, they have it out of the Sea- water; 
which they boil up and evaporate in Earthen 
Pots, till the Salt is left in a Cake at the bottom, 
which they take out and break in pieces for ufe : 
But as this is a tedious way, fo they have but 
little, and are very choice and f paring of it.* 
They don't fait their Fifh for keeping; but 
when they eat it, they boil abundance of Pepper 
with it, as they do with every thing elfe. But 
their Cookery I fhall fpeak of elfewhere. 

* Much of the salt used by the inhabitants of the isthmus 
is still obtained by this method. — V. R. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 131 



[i3 J ] Of the Indian Inhabitants ; their Man- 
ners, Cuftoms, &c. 

THE Indian Inhabitants of the IJihmus are Indian 
not very numerous, but they live thickeft Inhabitants. 
on the North-fide, efpecially along the 
fides of Rivers. The wild Indians of the South- 
fide live moft towards Peru : But there are 
Indians fcatter'd up and down all parts of the 
IJihmus. 

The fize of the Men is ufually about 5 or 6 Their 
Foot. They are ftreight and clean-limb'd, stature - 
big'd-bon'd, full-breafted, and handfomly Sha P e - 
fhap'd. I never faw among them a crooked or 
deformed Perfon. They are very nimble and 
active, running very well. But the Women are 
fhort and thick, and not fo lively as the Men. 
The young Women are very plump and fat, 
well-fhap'd; and have a brisk Eye. The elder 
Women are very ordinary; their Bellies and 
Breafts [132] being penfile and wrinkled. Both 
Men and Women are of a round Vifage, with Features. 
fhort bottle Nofes, their Eyes large, generally 
grey, yet lively and fparking when young. 
They have a high Forehead, white even Teeth, 
thin Lips, and Mouth moderately large. Their 
Cheeks and Chin are well proportion'd ; and in 



132 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Hair. 



Combs of 

Macaw- 

fticks. 



general they are handfomly featur'd, but the 
Men more than the Women. 

Both Sexes have ftreight, long, black Hair, 
lank, courfe and ftrong, which they wear ufually 
down to the middle of the Back, or lower, hang- 
ing loofe at its full length ; only the Women tie 
it together with a String juft behind the Head, 
below which it flows loofe as the Mens. Both 
Men and Women pride themfelves much in the 
length of the Hair of the Head ; and they fre- 
quently part it with their Fingers, to keep it 
difentangled ; or comb it out with a fort of 
Combs they make of Macaw-wood. This Comb 
is made of feveral fmall Sticks, of about 5 or 6 
Inches long, and tapering to a point at each end 
like our Glovers Sticks. Thefe being tied 10 
or 12 of them together about [133] the middle 
where they are thick, the Extremities of them 
both ways open from each other, and ferve at 
either end for a Comb : which does well enough 
to part the Hair; but they are forc'd to ufe 
their Fingers to fetch the Lice out of their 
Heads. They take great delight in Combing 
their Hair, and will do it for an Hour together. 
All other Hair, except that of their Eye-brows 
and Eye-lids, they eradicate : For tho' the Men 
have Beards if they would let them grow, yet 
they always have them rooted out: And the 
Women are the Operators for all this Work; 
ufmg two little Sticks for that purpofe, between 
which they pinch the Hair, and pluck it up. 
But the Men upon fome occasions cut off the 
Hair even of their Heads, it being a Cuftom 
they have to do fo by way of Triumph, and as 



WAFER'S DARIEN 133 

a diftinguifhing Mark of Honour to him who 
has kill'd a Spaniard, or other Enemy. He alfo 
then paints himfelf black (which is not ufual 
upon any other occahon) continuing painted of 
this Colour till the firft New- moon (as I remem- 
ber) after the Fad: is done. 

[134] Their Natural Complexion is a Copper- Complexion, 
colour, or Orange-tawney ; and their Eye-brows 
are naturally black as Jet. They ufe no Art to 
deepen the Colour either of their Eye-brows, or 
the Hair of their Head ; but they daub it with Anointing 
Oil to make it fhine ; for like other Indians they themselves. 
anoint themf elves all over, whether for Beauty to 
make the Skin fmooth and fleek, or to fupple it 
and keep it from parching, or to hinder too much 
Perfpiration in this hot Country, I know not. 

There is one Complexion fo fmgular, among White 
a fort of People of this Country, that I never Indians - 
faw nor heard of any like them in any part of 
the World. The Account will feem ftrange, 
but any Privateers who have gone over the 
IJlhmus muft have feen them, and can atteft the 
main of what I am going to relate; tho' few 
have had the opportunity of fo particular an 
Information about thefe People as I have had. 

They are White, and there are of them of 
both Sexes; yet there are but few of them in 
comparifon of the Copper-colour' d, poffibly but 
one to [135] two or three hundred. They differ 
from the other Indians chiefly in refpedt of 
Colour, tho* not in that only. Their Skins are 
not of fuch a White as thofe of fair People Milk-white 
among Europeans, with fome tindture of a Blufh Skins P- e -> 
or Sanguine Complexion; neither yet is their mos -'' 



134 WAFER'S DARIEN 

Complexion like that of our paler People, but 'tis 
rather a Milk-white, lighter than the Colour of 
any Europeans, and much like that of a white 
Horfe. 

For there is this further remarkable in them, 
that their Bodies are bef et all over, more or lef s, 

Down, with a fine fhort Milk-white Down, which adds 

to the whitenef s of their Skins : For they are 
not fo thick fet with this Down, efpecially on 
the Cheeks and Forehead, but that the Skin 
appears diftindt from it. The Men would prob- 
ably have white Briftles for Beards, did they 
not prevent them by their Cuftom of plucking 
the young Beard up by the Roots continually : 
But for the Down all over their Bodies, they 

and Hair. never try to get rid of it. Their Eye-brows are 
Milk-white alfo, and fo is the Hair of their 
Heads, and very fine withal, about the length 
of fix or [136] eight Inches, and inclining to a 
Curl. 

Smaller than They are not fo big as the other Indians-, and 
what is yet more ftrange, their Eye-lids bend 
and open in an oblong Figure, pointing down- 
ward at the Corners, and forming an Arch or 
Figure of a Crefcent with the Points down- 
wards. From hence, and from their feeing fo 
clear as they do in a Moon-fhiny night, we us'd 

Moon-ey'd. to call them Moon-ey d. For they fee not very 
well in the Sun, poring in the cleareft Day; 
their Eyes being but weak, and running with 
Water if the Sun fhine towards them ; f o that 
in the Day-time they care not to go abroad, 
unlefs it be a cloudy dark Day. Be fides they 
are but a weak People in comparifon of the 



the other 
Indians. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 135 

other, and not very fit for Hunting or other 

laborious Exercife, nor do they delight in any 

fuch. But notwithftanding their being thus 

fluggifh and dull and reftive in the Day-time, 

yet when Moon-fhiny nights come, they are all 

Life and Activity, running abroad, and into the Adtive by 

Woods, skipping about like Wild-Bucks; and Moon fhine. 

running as faft by Moon-light, even in the 

Gloom [137] and Shade of the Woods, as the 

other Indians by Day, being as nimble as they, 

tho' not fo ftrong and lufty. 

The Copper-colour'd Indians feem not to 
refpect thefe fo much as thofe of their own 
Complexion, looking on them as fomewhat 
monftrous. They are not a diftinc5t Race by 
themfelves, but now and then one is bred of a 
Copper-colour'd Father and Mother; and I have Of Copper- 
feen a Child of lefs than a Year old of this fort, colour'd 
Some would be apt to fufpedt they might be 
the Ofl-fpring of fome European Father: But 
befides that the Europeans come little here, and 
have little Commerce with the Indian-women 
when they do come, thefe white People are as 
different from the Europeans in fome refpects, 
as from the Copper-colour'd Indians in others. 
And befides, where an European lies with an 
Indian-woman, the Child is always a Mojlefe, or 
Tawney, as is well known to all who have been 
in the West-Indies; where there are Mojlefas, 
Mulatto 's, &c. of feveral Gradations between the 
White, and the Black or Copper-colour'd, 
according as the Parents are; even to Decom- 
pounds, as a Mu-[i28]latto-Fina, the Child of a 
Mulatto-man, and Mojlefa-women, &c. 



136 WAFER'S DARIEN 

and Parents But neither is the Child of a Man and Woman 
of fuch. f thef e white Indians, white like the Parents, 

but Copper-colour'd as their Parents were. For 
fo Lacenta told me, and gave me this as his Con- 
jecture how thefe came to be White, That 'twas 
through the force of the Mother's Imagination, 
looking on the Moon at the time of Conception ; 
but this I leave others to judge of. He told me 
withal, that they were but fhort-liv'd. 
Painting Both thefe and the Copper-colour'd Indians 

their Bodies n { e painting their Bodies, even of the Sucking 
Children fometimes. They make Figures of 
Birds, Beafts, Men, Trees, or the like, up and 
down in every part of the Body, more efpecially 
the Face : But the Figures are not extraordinary 
like what they reprefent, and are of differing 
Dimenfions, as their Fancies lead them. 
Women- The Women are the Painters, and take a great 

Painters. delight in it. The Colours they like and ufe 
moft are Red, Yellow and Blue, very bright and 
lovely. They temper them with fome [139] 
kind of Oil, and keep them in Calabafhes for ufe ; 
and ordinarily lay them on the Surface of the 
Skin with Pencils of Wood, gnaw'd at the end 
to the foftnefs of a Brufh. So laid on, they will 
laft fome Weeks, and are renew 'd continually. 
This way they painted me. 

But finer Figures, efpecially by their greater 
Artifts, are imprinted deeper, after this manner. 
They firft with the Brufh and Colour make a 
rough Draught of the Figure they deGgn ; then 
Pricking the they prick all over with a fharp Thorn till the 
Skin. Blood gufhes out ; then they rub the place with 

their Hands, firft dipp'd in the Colour they 



WAFER'S DARIEN 137 

defign; and the Pidture fo made is indelible: 
But fcarce one in forty of them is painted this 
way. 

One of my Companions defired me once to 
get out of his Cheek one of thefe imprinted 
Pidtures, which was made by the Negroes, his 
Name was Bullman\ which yet I could not 
effectually do, after much fcarifying and fetch- 
ing off a great part of the Skin. The Men, 
when they go to War, paint the Faces all over 
with Red ; and the Shouldiers, Breaft, and the 
[140] reft of the Bodies, here with Black, and 
there with Yellow, or any other Colour at pleaf- 
ure, in large Spots ; all which they wafh off at 
Night in the River before they go to flee p. 

They wear no Cloaths, ordinarily; but only Womens 
the Women have a Clout or piece of Cloth about Garb - 
their middle, tied behind with a Thread, and 
hanging down to their Knees; or Ankles, if 
they can get one large enough. They make 
thefe of Cotton ; but f ometimes they meet with 
fome old Cloaths got by trucking with their 
Neighbour Indians fubjedt to the Spaniards ; and 
thefe they are very proud of. Mr. Dampier 
relates how we prevail' d with a morofe Indian^ 
by prefenting his Wife with a Sky-colour'd 
Petticoat : And nothing will oblige the Women 
more than to give them Cloaths, efpecially of 
Gaudy Colours.* 

* Dampier, p. ; 13, describes the efforts to get information 
from the old Indian at whose house the party stopped on the 
third day's march: " At first he seemed to be very dubious in 
entertaining any discourse with us, and gave very impertinent 
answers to the questions that we demanded of him ; he told 
us that he knew no way to the North side. . . . We could 



138 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Men naked. 



Conick 
Veffel. 



Modefty of 
both Sexes. 



The Men go ordinarily quite naked, without 
fo much as a Clout about them, which few other 
Indians are without. But thefe have only a 
fmall Veffel of Gold or Silver, if they are able, 
or at leaft a piece of Plantain- Leaf, of a Conick 
Figure, like the [141] Extinguifher of a Candle. 
They forceably bear back the Penis within its 
own Tegument, clof e to the Pubes ; and they keep 
it there with this Funnel tied hard upon it, with 
a String coming from it, and going about their 
Waifts. They leave the Scrotum expos'd, hav- 
ing no Senfe of Shame with reference to that, 
as they have with refpedt to the Penis, which 
they never f hew uncover' d: But the Men will 
turn away their Faces even from one another, 
if by any accident it be uncover'd; and when 
they would make Water, they turn their Backs 
to their Companions, and fquatting down, Hip 
off the Funnel with one Hand, and having done, 
put it on again very nimbly. When they would 
go to Stool, they choofe always to go into the 

get no other answer from him, and all his discourse was in 
such an angry tone as plainly declared he was not our friend. 
However, we were forced to make a virtue of necessity, and 
humour him, for it was neither time nor place to be angry 
with the Indians ; all our lives lying in their hand. 

' ' We were now at a great loss, not knowing what course to 
take, for we tempted him with Beads, Money, Hatchets, 
Macheats, or long Knives ; but nothing would work on him, 
till one of our men took a Sky-coloured Petticoat out of 
his bag and put it on his wife ; who was so much pleased 
with the Present, that she immediately began to chatter to 
her Husband, and soon brought him into better humour. He 
could then tell us that he knew the way to the North side, and 
would have gone with us, but that he had cut his foot 2 days 
before, which made him uncapable of serving us himself : But 
he would take care that we should not want a guide. ' ' 



WAFER'S DARIEN 139 

River, both Men and Women ; having a great 
Senfe of Shame as to that particular: And in 
general, they are both a modeft and a cleanly 
People. 

Yet the Men alf o have a value for Cloaths ; The Men's 
and if any of them had an old Shirt given him Robes . on 
by any of us, he would be fure to wear it, and Qccafions 
ftrut about at no ordinary rate. Befides [142] 
this, they have a fort of long Cotton Garments 
of their own, fome white, others of a rufty 
black, fhap'd like our Carter's Frocks, hanging 
down to their Heels, with a Fringe of the fame 
of Cotton about a Span long, and fhort, wide, 
open Sleeves, reaching but to the middle of 
their Arms.* Thefe Garments they put on 
over their Heads ; but they are worn only on 
fome great Occafions, as attending the King or 
Chief, either at a Feaft, a Wedding efpecially; 
or fitting in Council, or the like. They don't 
march in them : But the Women carry thefe and 
their other Ornaments in Baskets after them; 
which they put on when they come to the Place 
of Affembly, and there make themfelves as fine 

as they can. When they are thus affembled, they 

. _ — __ — _ % 

*Ringrose, p. 7, says that the " King or chief Captain of 
these Indians of Darien, ' ' who visited the buccaneers on their 
way across to attack Santa Maria, " was covered with a thin 
white cotton robe, reaching unto the small of his legs, and 
round its bottom a fringe of the same three inches deep. So 
that by the length of this Robe, our sight was impeded, that 
we could see no higher than his naked Ankles. In his hand 
he had a long bright Lance, as sharp as any knife. With him 
he had three Sons, each of them having a white Robe, and 
their Lances in their hands, but standing bare-headed before 
him ; as also were eight or nine persons more of his Retinue, 
or Guard." His crown is described in the note on page 142. 



140 WAFER'S DARIEN 

will fometimes walk about the Place or Planta- 
tion where they are, with thefe their Robes on : 
And I once faw Lacenta thus walking about 
with 2 or 300 of thefe attending him, as if he 
was muttering them: And I took notice that 
thofe in the black Gowns walk'd before him, 
and the white after him, each having their 
Launces of the fame colour with their Robes. 
Plates hang- [143] For an Ornament to the Face, belide 
ing over the their general painting and daubing their Cheeks 
with Red when they go to War, the Men wear 
at all times a piece of Plate hanging over their 
Mouths, generally of Silver, but the principal 
Men have it of Gold. 'Tis of an Oval Figure, 
covering the Mouth from corner to corner ; and 
this is the length of it. It reaches fo low as to 
ly upon the Under-lip with its loweft fide ; and 
there is a piece cut out of the upper fide, near 
the Extremity of it; which Edge being cut 
af under, the whole Plate is like the Figure of a 
Half-moon, only inclining more to an Oval ; and 
gently pinching the Bridle of the Nofe with its 
Points, it hangs dangling from thence. It is in 
the middle of about the thicknef s of a Guinea ; 
but grows thinner gradually towards the Edge. 
The Plates of this fize are fuch as they ufe when 
they go to a Feaft or Council : But that which 
they wear abroad upon a long March, Hunting, 
or at ordinary times, is of the fame Shape, but 
much f mailer, and does not cover their Lips. 
Such an one I wore among them of Gold.* 

* Davis, in the second edition, p. 276, describes the Indians 
who accompanied him across the Isthmus as being about a 
hundred^ ' ' brisk young Fellows, each of them having two 



WAFER'S DARIEN 141 

[144] Inftead of this Plate, the Women wear The 
a Ring hanging down in the fame manner ; and Women's 
the Metal and Size alfo differing according to 
their Rank, and the Occafion. The larger fort 
is of the thicknefs of a Goofe-quill ; and not 
Oval, as the Mens Plates, but Circular. It goes 
through the Bridle of the Nofe; which many 
times, by its weight and long ufe, efpecially in 
Elder Women, it brings down to the Mouth. 

Both Men and Women, at folemn Meals or 
Feafts, when they wear their larger Plates or 
Rings, take them out, and lay them alide till 
they have done Eating; when rubbing them 
very clean and bright, they put them in again. 
At other times, when they eat or drink, they 
content themfelves with lifting up with the left 
Hand, if need be, the fmall Plates or Rings they 
then wear, (and the Womens Rings are feldom 
fo fmall but they lie upon the Lips) while they 
ufe their right Hand in taking up the Cup or 
feeding themfelves. And by the way, they 
always make the chief ufe of their Right Hands : 
And I never perceiv'd a Left-handed [145] Per- None of 
fon among them. Neither the Plates nor Rings them Left " 
hinder much their Speaking, tho' they lie bob- 
bing upon their Lips. 

The King or Chief, and fome few of the great Ear- 
ones, at extraordinary times, wear in each Ear, P endants - 

Lances, two Bows, and about twenty Arrows. They are all 
naked, having long black Hair hanging down to their Wastes, 
and a Horn which they put their Yards into, ty'd with a String, 
and a very large piece of Gold, with a Ring in the shape of 
half Moon, reaching from Ear to Ear, and a Hole in their 
Nose, into which the Ring goes." These rings are illustrated 
in the plate at p. 137. 



142 WAFER'S DARIEN 

faftned to a Ring there, two large Gold Plates, 
one hanging before to the Breaft, and the other 
behind on the Shoulder. They are about a 
Span long, of an Heart fafhion (as that is com- 
monly painted) with the Point downward; 
having on the upper part a narrow Plate or 
Label, about three or four Inches long, by an 
hole in which it hangs to the Ring in the Ear. 
It wears great holes in the Ears by frequent ufe. 
Diadems of I once faw Lacenta, in a great Council, wear 
Gold, a Diadem of Gold-plate, like a Band about his 

Head, eight or nine Inches broad, jagged at top 
like the Teeth of a Saw, and lined on the infide 
with a Net- work of fmall Canes.* And all the 
armed Men, who then attended him in Council, 
wore on their Heads fuch a Band, but like a 
Basket of Canes, and fo jagged, wrought fine, 
and painted very hand-[i46]fomely, for the 
moft part red; but not cover'd over with a 
and of Canes Gold-plate as Lacenta s was. The top of thefe 
& Feathers. was f e ^ round with long Feathers, of feveral of 
the moft beautiful Birds, ftuck upright in a 

*Ringrose, p. 6, describing the "King" of Darien, who 
visited the buccaneers while they were on their way to attack 
Santa Maria, says : ' ' His Crown was made of small white reeds, 
which were curiously woven, having no other top than its 
lining, which was red silk. Round about the middle of it was 
a thin plate of gold, more than two inches broad, laced behind ; 
from whence did stick two or three Ostrich feathers. About 
this plate went also a row of golden beads, which were bigger 
than ordinary pease [i. e. , peas] ; underneath which the red 
lining of the crown was seen. In his nose he wore a large 
plate of gold, in form of an half Moon ; and in each ear a great 
golden Ring, nigh four inches in diameter, with a round thin 
plate of Gold of the same breadth, having a small hole in the 
center, and by that hanging to the ring. ' ' 



WAFER'S DARIEN 143 

Ring or Crown : But Lacenta had no Feathers 
on his Diadem. 

Belide thefe particular Ornaments there are Chains of 
yet other general ones, which they all wear, Beads, &°c. 
Men, Women, and Children of feven or eight 
Years old, in proportion to their Age. Thefe 
are feveral Strings or Chains of Teeth, Shells, 
Beads, or the like, hanging from the Neck their great 
down upon the Breaft, and to the pit of the Mens. 
Stomach. The Teeth-chains are curiously 
made with Teeth jagged like a Saw in feveral 
Rows, fo contriv'd as that the Prominencies of 
the one Row may lie in the Notches of the 
other, and look like one folid Mafs of Bone. 
This was worn only by Lacenta, and fome few 
of the principal Men, on particular Occafions; 
and they put them on over the reft of their 
Beads. We us'd to call thefe, Tygers-teeth, Tygers- 
though I know not for what Reaf on ; for I never teeth - 
faw any fuch Creature [147] there: Yet I have 
been inform' d there are Tygers on this Conti- Tygers on 
nent. Some of our Men who crofs'd the IJlhmus, the Ifthmus. 
told me, they kill'd one there; and at another 
time, when we went over with Capt. Sharp, fome 
of the Men faid they faw a Tyger, who ftood at 
a fmall diftance, and ftar'd upon them. I have 
heard alfo that there is a fmall fort, but very 
fierce, in the Bay of Campechy. 

But for the reft of them, both Men and The Chains 
Women, they wear not any Teeth, but only a howmad e; 
few fcattering fometimes here and there in the 
Chains, among the reft of the Baubles. Each 
of them has, it may be, about the Neck 3 or 400 
Strings of Beads, Shells, or the like, but thefe 



144 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



divided into 7 or 8 Ranks; and the Strings of 
each, by being ttirn'd a little about one another, 
make, as it were, fo many Ropes of them. 
Thefe hang ufually one below another, yet in 
no great order ; and the Women generally have 
theirs hanging all on a Heap or Clufter. What- 
ever Bugles * or other fuch Toys they get, they 
find a place for them among their Chains ; which 
the heavier they be, the more [148] ornamental. 
Their great She is a poor Woman who has not fifteen or 
Weight; twenty Pound weight upon her; fome have 
thirty or more; and the Men have commonly 
near twice as much in weight as the Women, 
according as their Strength is, and their Ability 
to compafs them, 
when worn. When they are in the Houfe, or on Hunting, 
or going to War, they wear none of thefe 
Chains; but only when they would appear in 
State, upon occafion of a Feaft, Wedding, 
Council, or the like. As they go to the place 
of Rendezvous, the Women carry them for 
them, as they do their other Trinkets, in Baf- 
kets ; one at each end of a Pole laid acrof s the 
Shoulder. When they come to the place, they 
put them on, and walk about; and fometimes 
will dance in them; till with the Motion and 
Weight they Sweat extreamly. When they fit 
down to eat, they take them off till they have 
done. 

The Children have only a few f mall Chains ; 
and a String or two of Beads or Bugles they 
will put upon their very Infants. And the 
Women, befides thefe Chains, have fometimes 



Long black glass beads. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 145 

[149] Bracelets about their Arms, of a fmall Womens 
quantity of the fame Materials twifted feveral Bracelets of 
times about. Both Men and Women, when 
painted, and fet out with all thefe Fineries, 
make no ordinary Figure. 

Their Houfes lie moftly thin and fcattering, Their 
efpecially in New Plantations, and always by a Houfe s; 
River-fide. But in fome Places there are a 
pretty many together, fo as to make a Town or 
Village; yet not ftanding clofe or orderly, in 
Rows or Streets, but difpers'd here and there, and how 
like our Villages on Commons, or in Woodlands. Seated. 
They have Plantations lying about them, fome 
at a nearer, others at a greater diftance ; referv- 
ing ftill a Place to build the common War-houfe 
on. They change not their Seats or Houfes, 
unlefs either for fear of the Neighbouring 
Spaniards, if they think them too much ac- 
quainted with the place of their Abode ; or to 
mend their Commons, when the Ground is worn 
out of Heart ; for they never manure not. 

In building, they lay no Foundations, only and built, 
dig Holes two or three Feet af under; in which 
they fet fmall [150] Pofts upright, of an equal 
heighth, of 6, 7, or 8 Foot high. The Walls 
are walled up with Sticks, and daub'd over with 
Earth : And from thefe Walls the Roof runs up 
in fmall Rafters, meeting in a Ridge, and cover'd 
with Leaves of fome Trees of the Palm kind. 

The Building is all irregular. The Length 
is about 24 or 25 Foot; the Breadth proportion- 
able. There is no Chimney, but the Fire is 
made in the middle of the Houfe, on the 
Ground ; the Smoke going out at a hole on the 



Forts. 



146 WAFER'S DARIEN 

top, or at Crevifes in the Thatch. The Houfe 
is not fo much parted into Rooms, as all of it a 
Clufter of Hovels, joining together into one 
Houfe. No Stories, no Doors, nor Shelves; 
nor other Seats, than Logs of Wood. Every- 
one of the Family has a Hammock tied up, 
hanging from end to end of the Hovel or Room. 
The War Several Houfes in a Village or Neighbour- 

houfes or hood, have one War- houfe or Fort in common 
to them; which is generally at leaft 120 or 130 
Foot long, about 25 broad, the Wall about 9 or 
10 Foot high; and in all to the top of the Ridge 
about 20 Foot; [151] and cover' d with Leaves 
as their other Houfes. The Materials and 
Method of Building are alfo much the fame as 
in the other Houfes; but there are no Parti- 
tions. The Sides and Ends of thefe War-houfes 
are full of Holes, each about as wide as ones 
Fift; but made here and there at Random, in 
no regular Figure or Order. Out of thefe they 
view an approaching Enemy, and fhoot their 
Arrows. They have no way of flanking an 
Enemy. Thefe Houfes are always feated on a 
Level, on the Nap or Edge of a gentle Hill; 
and they clear the Coaft of Woods and Shrubs, 
for a Bows-fhoot quite round it. There is a 
Door- way at each end; and to Barricado it, a 
fort of Door made of Macaw-wood and Bamboes, 
both fplit and bound together with Withs ; 'tis 
about a Foot thick : This they have ready to fet 
up againft an Enemies entrance; and two or 
three Pofts in the Ground to fupport it. 'Tis a 
great Inconvenience of thefe Forts that they are 
eafily fet a Fire; and the Spaniards fhoot into 



WAFER'S DARIEN 147 

the Thatch Arrows with long Shanks made red 
hot, for that purpofe. There is ufually a 
Family [152] of Indians living in the War-houfe, 
as a Guard to it, and to keep it clean : And they 
are always kept pretty neat, as their private 
Houfes alfo are. The War-houfes ferve them 
alfo to hold their Councils, or other general 
Meetings. 

In the Plantations, among their Houfes, they Plantations 
fet fo much of Plantains, Maiz, or the like, as andHusban- 
ferves their Occasions. The Country being all ry ' 
a Foreft, the firft thing of their Husbandry is 
ufually to cut down the Trees, and clear a piece 
of Ground. They often let the Trees lie along 
on the Place 3 or 4 Years after they are cut down ; 
and then fet fire to them and the Underwood or 
Stumps, burning all together. Yet in the mean 
time they plant Maiz among the Trees as they 
lie. So much of the Roots of the Trees as are 
under Ground, they fuffer to lie there and rot, 
having no way to grub them up. When the 
Ground is pretty clear, they how [i.e., hoe] it 
up into little Ridges and Hillocks; but in no 
very good Form nor regular Diftance. In each 
of thefe Hillocks they make a hole with their 
Fingers, and throw in 2 or 3 Grains [153] of 
Maiz, as we do Garden-beans; covering it up 
with Earth. The Seed-time is about April; the 
Harveft about September or Oclober. They pluck 
off the Ears of the Maiz with their Hands, as is 
ufual alfo elf e where: And tho' I was not there 
in their Harveft-time, yet I faw the Maiz of the 
preceding Harveft laid up in the Husk in their 
Houfes. Inftead of Threfhing, they rub off 



148 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Maiz-flower 
[i. e., flour, 
or corn- 
meal]. 



Corn- 
Drink ; * 



how fer- 
mented. 



the Grain. They make no Bread of it, nor 
Cakes, but ufe the Flower on many Occafions; 
parching the Corn, and grinding it between two 
Stones, as Chocolate is made. One ufe they 
put the Flower to is to mix it with Water 
in a Calabafh, and fo drink it off; which 
they do frequently when they Travel, and 
have not leifure to get other Provifions. This 
mixture they call Chicha, which I think fignifies 
Maiz. 

They make a Drink alfo of their Maiz, which 
they call Chichah Co-pah\ for Co-pah fignifies 
Drink. They fteep in a Trough of Water a 
quantity of Maiz bruifed, about 20 or 30 Bufh- 
els, if it be againft a Feaft or Wedding ; letting 
it lie fo long till the [154] Water is impregnated 
with the Corn, and begins to turn four. Then 
the Women, ufually fome old Women, who 
have little elfe to do, come together, and chew 
Grains of Maiz in their Mouths, which they 
spit out each into a Gourd or Calabafh: And 
when they think they have a fufficient quantity 
of this Spittle and Maiz in the Calabafhes, they 
empty them into the Trough of Water, after 
having firft taken out the Maiz that was infus'd 
in it; and this ferves inftead of Barm or Yeaft, 
fetting all the Trough of Liquor in a fmall Fer- 
ment. When it has done working, they draw 
it off clean from the Sediment into another 
Trough, and then 'tis ready for ufe. It tafts 
like four fmall Beer, yet 'tis very intoxicating. 
They drink large Quantities of it, and are very 
fond of it: It makes them belch very much. 



* Davis calls this C kitty. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 149 

This is their choice Drink ; for ordinarily they 
drink plain Water or Mi flaw. 

Miflaw is a Drink made of ripe Plantains : Mijlaw of 
There is of two forts, one made of Plantains Plantains.* 
frefh-gather'd, the other of dry ones. The 
former they roaft in its Cod, which peeling off, 
[155] they put the Plantain into a Calabafh of 
Water, and mafh it with their Hands, till 'tis 
all diff olved ; and then they drink it up with the 
Water. The other is made of Cakes or Lumps 
of Plantain dried; for the Plantains when ripe 
and gather' d, will not keep, but quickly grow 
rotten if left in the Cod. To preferve them 
therefore, they make a Mafs of the Pulp of a 
great many ripe Plantains, which they dry with 
a gentle Fire upon a Barbecue or Grate of 
Sticks, made like a Grid-iron. This Lump they 
keep for ufe, breaking off a piece of it when 
they pleafe, and mafhing it in Water for Miflaw. 
They carry a Lump of Plantain with them for 
this end whenever they travel; efpecially into 
Places where they can't hope to get ripe Plan- 
tains, tho' they prefer the dried ones. Green 
and half-ripe ones they eat inftead of Bread 
with Fief h ; but they boil them firft. They do 
the fame with their Yams and Potato's, which 
they f ometimes roaft ; as alf o the Caffava-root : 
And their Plantations are never without fome 
or other of thefe, and ufually in good plenty; 
efpecially the old Plantations. 

[156] I faw no Herbs or Sallading in their 
Plantations, neither did I ever fee them eat any 
kind of Herbs. But they never forget to have 

* Called Mushlaw by Davis, and Miscelaw by Sharp. 



150 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Women, 
Planters. 



The 

Womens 
Drudgery 
voluntary. 



Their good 
Conditions ; 



in their Plantations fome of their beloved Pep- 
per; and they ufually are pretty well ftor'd 
with Pine- Apples, which they have very plen- 
tiful, and eat of them every Day. 

The Men firft clear the Plantations, and bring; 
them into order, but the Women have all the 
trouble of them afterwards ; the digging, howing, 
planting, plucking the Maiz, and fetting Yams, 
and every thing of Husbandry, is left to them, 
but only the cutting down Trees, or fuch Work 
that requires greater Strength. The Women 
alfo have the managing Affairs within Doors, 
for they are in general the Drudges of the 
Family; efpecially the old Women, for fuch 
Works as they are able to do, as Cooking, Wafh- 
ing, and the like. And abroad alfo the Women 
are to attend their Husbands, and do all their 
Servile Work. Nay, they are little better than 
their Pack-horfes, carrying all the Luggage of 
their Houfhold-Utenlils, Victuals, &c. and when 
they [157] come to the place where they are to 
lodge, the Wife dreffes Supper, while the Man 
hangs up the Hammocks; for each of them lies 
in their own Hammock. 

But notwithstanding the Women are put thus 
to all manner of Drudgery about the Houfe and 
Plantations, and in Travelling abroad, and are 
little better than Slaves to their Husbands ; yet 
they do their Work fo readily and cheerfully, 
that it appears to be rather their own Choice 
than any Neceffity laid upon them. They are 
in general very good condition'd, pitiful and 
courteous to one another, but efpecially to 
Strangers ; ready to give any juft attendance or 



WAFER'S DARIEN 151 

affiftance they can. They obferve their Huf- 

bands with a profound Refpedt and Duty upon 

all occafions ; and on the other fide their Huf- and their 

bands are very kind and loving to them. I Husbands. 

never knew an Indian beat his Wife, or give her 

any hard Words: Nor even in the Quarrels 

which they are wont to have in their Cups, do 

they fhew any Roughnefs toward their Women 

who attend them. 

[158] Befide thefe Cares, the Women have Care of their 
that which more immediately belongs to them, Children. 
the Care of their Children. When a Woman is 
deliver'd of a Child, another Woman takes it in Lying-in. 
her Arms within half an hour or lefs after 'tis 
born, and takes the lying-in Woman upon her 
Back, and goes with both of them into the River 
and wafhes them there. The Child for the firft Nurfing. 
Month is tied upon a Board, or piece of Macaw- 
wood fplit (for that ferves them ufually for 
Boards, having no Saws) and this piece of Wood 
is fwathed to the Back of the Child ; and their 
Children generally grow very ftreight. When 
there is occafion to clean the Child, they take it 
off from the Board, and wafh it with cold Water; 
and then fwath it on again. The Mother takes 
up the Child to give it Suck, Board and all, and 
lays it down again in a little Hammock made 
for that purpofe; the upper part of which is 
kept open with fhort Sticks. 

As the Children grow up, the Boys are bred Education 
to their Fathers Exercifes; efpecially f hooting of the Boys-, 
with the Bow and Arrow, and throwing the 
[159] Lance ; at both which they are very expert. 
I have feen Things perform 'd by them with a 



152 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Their 
Dexterity. 



Indulgence. 



Girls Em- 
ployments. 



Dexterity almoft incredible: For Inftance, a 
little Boy of about eight Years old, would fet a 
Cane up on end, and going about twenty Paces 
from it, would fplit it with a Bow and Arrow, 
and not mifs once in feveral Effays. This I 
have feen, and this is the chief of their Exer- 
cife: And as they generally accompany their 
Fathers on Hunting, (efpecially when about 10 
or 12 years old, and big enough to carry their 
own Provilion, and a Calabafh of Corn-drink) fo 
they will fhoot little Birds they meet with, and 
ftrike in with the Hunt. Their young Children 
they never carry abroad with them on a Journey, 
or on a hunting or fighting Expedition. The 
Boys, when grown fomewhat big, always go 
abroad with the Father and Mother, and do 
what little Services they can ; but the Girls ftay 
at home with the old Women. 

They feem very fond of their Children, both 
Fathers and Mothers, and I have fcarce feen 
them ufe any Severity towards them. And the 
[160] Children are fuffer'd to divert themf elves 
which way they will. Swimming in the Rivers 
and catching Fifh, is a great Exercife even for 
the fmall Boys and Girls; and the Parents alfo 
ufe that Refrefhment. They go quite naked, 
both Boys and Girls, till the Age of Puberty; 
when the Girls put on their Clout, and the 
Boys the Funnel. 

The Girls are bred up by their Mothers to 
their Domeftick Employments. They make 
them help to drefs the Victuals, and fet them 
to draw Strings out of Mako-bark, and to beat 
Sz7/£-grafs, for Thread, Cordage, and Nets. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 15S 

They pick the Cotton alfo, and fpin it for their 
Mothers Weaving. For Weaving, the Women The 
make a Roller of Wood, about three Foot long, Womens 
turning eafily about between two Pofts. About 
this they place Strings of Cotton, of 3 or 4 
yards long, at moft, but oftner lefs, according 
to the ufe the Cloth is to be put to, whether for 
a Hammock, or to tie about their Waifts, or for 
Gowns, or for Blankets to cover them in their 
Hammocks, as they lie in them in their Houfes ; 
which are all [161] the Ufes they have for Cloth : 
And they never weave a piece of Cotton with a 
defign to cut it, but of a fize that fhall juft ferve 
for the particular ufe. The Threads thus com- 
ing from the Roller are the Warp ; and for the 
Woof, they twiffc Cotton-yarn about a fmall 
piece of Macaw-wood, notch'd at each end; and 
taking up every other Thread of the Warp with 
the Fingers of one Hand, they put the Woof 
through with the other Hand, and receive it 
out on the other fide : And to make the Threads 
of the Woof lie clofe in the Cloth, they ftrike 
them at every turn with a long and thin piece 
of Macaw-wood like a Ruler, which lies acrofs 
between the Threads of the Warp for that 
purpofe. 

The Girls alfo twift Cotton-yarn for Fringes, 
and prepare Canes, Reeds or Palmeto- Leaves, 
as the Boys alfo do, for Basket-making. But 
the making up the Baskets is the Mens Work ; The Mens 
who firft die the Materials of feveral curious Basket 
lively Colours, and then mix and weave them 
very prettily. They weave little Baskets like 
Cups alfo very neat; with the Twigs [162] 



154 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Modefty of 
the young 
Maids. 



wrought fo very fine and clofe, as to hold any 
Liquor, without any more ado, having no Lacker 
or Varnifh : And they as ordinarily drink out of 
Woven thefe woven Cups, as out of their Calabafhes, 

Cups. which they paint very curioufly. They make 

Baskets of feveral fizes, for carrying their 
Cloths, or other ufes, with great variety of 
Work ; and f o firm, that you may crufh them or 
throw them about, how you will almoft, with 
little or no damage to them. 

The young Maids are fhut up in private by 

their Parents at the time of Puberty, and will 

not be feen by any, but put a piece of Cotton as 

a Vail over their Faces, if any one fhould come 

accidentally into the Place where they are, tho' 

it be their Father. This Confinement lafts not 

long, but they foon go abroad again. They are 

very modeft; and tho' they will lay hold on 

any part of a Man, yet they do it with great 

Simplicity and Innocence. 

Plurality of Lacenta had feveral Wives, as others of them 

Wives. a if had, Lacentas were Seven in number. 

When he went a Progrefs or long Journey, [163] 

'twas fo contriv'd, that he fUll found one of his 

Wives at every new Stage he came to. 

Punifhment Adultery is punifhed among them with the 

of Adultery, Death of both Parties. Yet if the Woman con- 

feffes the Fadt to her Husband, and f wears fhe 

was forc'd, fhe finds Favour: But if fhe conceals 

it, and it be prov'd againft her, fhe is burn'd. 

Theft, Their Laws are fevere alfo in other refpedts; 

for a Thief dies without Mercy, 
and deflour- If a Man debauches a Virgin, they thruft a fort 
ing Virgins. f Bryer up the paffage of his Penis, and then 



WAFER'S DARIEN 155 

turn it round ten or a dozen times : Which is not 
only a great Torment, but commonly mortifies 
the part ; and the Perfon dies of it ; but he has 
liberty to cure himfelf if he can. Thefe Fadts 
muft be proved by Oath; which is by their 
Tooth. 

When they marry, the Father of the Bride, Their 
or the next Man of Kin, keeps her privately in Mar "age. 
the fame Apartment with himfelf the firft feven 
Nights ; * whether to exprefs an unwillingnefs 
to part with her, or for what other Reafon I know 
not; and fhe is then deliver'd to her Husband. 

[164] When a Man difpofes of his Daughter, 
he invites all the Indians within 20 Miles round, 
to a great Feaft, which he provides for them. 
The Men who come to the Wedding bring their Prefents 
Axes along with them, to work with: The brou s ht - 
Women bring about half a Buf hel of Maiz : The 
Boys bring Fruit and Roots: The Girls Fowls 
and Eggs ; for none come empty-handed. They 
fet their Prefents at the door of the Houfe, and 
go away again, till all the reft of the Guefts 
have brought theirs; which are all receiv'd in, 
and difpos'd of by the People of the Houfe. 

* Davis, in the second edition, p. 273, states that he was 
informed by Captain Christian that Pedro, the Indian " King," 
' ' had several wives more [than the one whom the Spaniards 
saw] and that he had had a Child by one of his own Daugh- 
ters, and that that is very common among them ; it is their 
way, that whenever they Marry their Daughters, that the 
Father (if able) lies with them first, if she is a Maid, and if 
the Father is very Old, and past his Labour, then the Eldest 
Son does that Office, and the next day all his and her 
Friends meet, and put them together: This Captain Chris- 
tian is very well acquainted with all their methods, for he 
lived among them some Years." 



156 WAFER'S DARIEN 

Marriage Then the Men return firft to the Wedding, 

Ceremonies. an( j t ^ e Bridegroom prefents each Man with a 
Calabafh of ftrong Drink, and conducts them 
through the Houfe one by one, into fome open 
place behind it. The Women come next, who 
likewife receive a Calabafh of Liquor, and 
march through the Houfe. Then come the 
Boys, and laft of all the Girls ; who all drink at 
the Door, and go after the reft. 

Then come the Fathers of the young Couple, 
with their Son and [165] Daughter: The Father 
of the Bridegroom leads his Son, and the Father 
of the Bride leads his Daughter. The former 
makes a Speech to the Company; and then 
dances about, with many Antick Geftures, till 
he is all on a Sweat. Then kneeling down he 
gives his Son to the Bride; whofe Father is 
kneeling alfo and holds her, having danc'd him- 
felf into a Sweat, as the other. Then the young 
Couple take each other by the Hand, and the 
Bridegroom returns the Bride to her Father; 
and thus ends the Ceremony. 
Working ^Then all the Men take up their Axes, and run 
for the new fhouting and hollowing to a Trac5t of Wood- 
Couple. land ^ whicll is before laid out for a Plantation 
for the young Couple. There they fall to 
work, cutting down the Woods, and clearing 
the Ground as faft as they can. Thus they 
continue about Seven Days, working with the 
greateft Vigour imaginable : And all the Ground 
which they clear, the Women and Children 
plant with Maiz, or whatever elfe is agreeable 
to the Seafon. They alfo build a Houfe for the 
new-married Couple to live in. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 157 

[166] The Seven Days being - ended, and the The Mar- 
young Man fetled with his Wife in his new na & e Feaft - 
Houfe, the Company make merry there with 
Chicha-Co-pah, the Corn-drink before defcrib'd, 
of which they are fure to provide good ftore. 
They alfo make Provifion for Feafting; and the 
Guefts fall to very heartily. 

When their Eating is over, the Men fall to Hard 
hard Drinking: But before they begin, the Drinking. 
Bridegroom takes all their Arms, and hangs 
them to the Ridge-pole of the Houfe, where 
none can come at them but himfelf : For they 
are very quarrelfome in their Drink. They Care to 
continue drinking Night and Day, till all the P revent 
Liquor is fpent ; which lafts uf ually 3 or 4 Days. 
During which fome are always drinking, while 
others are drunk and fleeping: And when all 
the Drink is out, and they have recover'd their 
Senfes, they all return to their own Homes. 

They have Feafting on other Occafions alfo, other Feafts 
as after a great Council held, or any other Meet- & Meal s. 
ing; which they have fometimes only for 
Merriment. The Men conftantly drink to [167] 
one another at Meals, f peaking fome Word, and 
reaching out the Cup towards the Perfon they 
drink to. They never drink to their Women ; 
but thefe conftantly ftand by and attend them 
while they are eating ; take the Cup of any one 
who has drank, throw out the remainder of the 
Liquor, rinfe it, and give it full to another. 
The Women at all Feafts, and in their own 
Houfes, wait on their Husbands till they have 
done ; and then go and Eat by themfelves, or 
with one another. 



158 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



The Mens 
Employ- 
ments. 



Their 
Recreation. 



Dancing. 



The Men, when they are at home, trouble 
themfelves little with any Bulinefs; but that 
they may not be quite idle, they will often be 
making their Cups and Baskets, Arrows and 
Heads for them, Lances, Nets, and the like. 

The Men make alfo a fort of Pipes of fmall 
hollow Bamboes, and fometimes of a ilngle 
Reed. They cut Notches in it, and blow it 
ftrongly, making a whining Noife, but without 
any diftindt Notes : And they frequently enter- 
tain themfelves with fuch Inftruments, as they 
us'd in their Pawawing. They will do any thing 
[168] to make a Noife, which they love much; 
and they keep every one a Humming at the 
fame time to themfelves. 

They Hum alfo when they Dance, which they 
do many times 30 or 40 in a ring, Men only 
together. They ftretch out their Hands, 
laying them on one anothers Shoulders. Then 
they move gently fideways round in the fame 
Circle; and fhake all the Joints of their Bodies 
with a wrigling Antick Gefture, as they move 
along the Ring. 

They pipe and drum often, even at working 
times; but their dancing they ufe chiefly when 
they get together to make merry. When they 
have danc'd fome time, one or other of the 
Company goes out of the Ring, jumps about, 
and plays Antick Tricks, throwing and catching 
his Lance, bending back towards the Ground and 
fpringing forward again, with many other Mo- 
tions like our Tumblers ; but with more Adtivity 
than Art: And when one is tired with his 
Tricks, another fteps out, and fometimes 2 or 3 



WAFER'S DARIEN 159 

together. As foon as ever 'tis over, they jump 
into the [169] River, all in a violent Sweat as 
they are, and there wafh themfelves clean ; and 
when they come out of the Water, they ftroke 
it off from their Hair and Bodies with their 
Hands. A Dancing-bout, if the meeting be 
large, lafts fometimes a whole Day, feldom lefs 
than 5 or 6 Hours ; and 'tis ufually after having a 
f hort drinking Bout : But they dont dance after 
they have drank very hard. 

Thefe, and the huntings and fhooting at a 
Mark, are their chief Divertifements ; for both 
Men and Boys will be letting fly at any thing 
they fee, tho' for nothing but exercife or trial 
of Skill. The Women have Dancings and The 
Merriments by themfelves, when their Huf- Womens 
bands Paftimes are over; for they never feafb 
nor play together with the Men : But they will 
drink by themfelves till they are fuddled. 

The Women take great care of their Huf- Their care 
bands when they have made themfelves drunk. of their 
For when they perceive him in fuch a Condition Husbands 
that he can bear up no longer, they get one or 
two more Women to affift them to take him up, 
and put him [170] into his Hammock; where as 
he lies Snoring, they ftand by and fprinkle 
Water on his Body to cool him, wafhing his 
Hands, Feet and Face ; ftroking off that Water 
with their Hands, as it grows warm, and throw- 
ing on frefh. I have feen 10 or 12 or more, 
lying thus in their Hammocks after a Feafh, and 
the Women {landing by to look after them. 

The Men never ftir abroad upon the moft 
ordinary Occafions, if it be but juft without the 



160 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Hunting Ex- door to make Water, but they take with them 
peditions. fome or other of their Weapons, their Bow and 
Arrow, Lance, Hatchet, or Macheat or Long- 
knife. Their moft frequent Expeditions, in 
time of Peace, are to go a Hunting. For this 
is their way of fupplying themf elves with Flefh ; 
and they go out as often as it fails at home. 
They fometimes go out a Family or two only by 
themf elves; but they have often larger and 
more folemn Huntings, of a great many in com- 
pany together: And there is feldom a Council 
held, or Feaft, but there is fome Hunting-Match 
concluded on before they part ; and a time f et 
for every one to ap-[i7i]pear with their feveral 
Neceffaries, at the general Rendezvous. 

A Hunting- Expedition lafts fometimes 3 or 
4, fometimes 10, 12, 17 or 18 Days, according 
as they meet with the Game, and as the Courfe 
is which they fleer to find it: For fometimes 
they will range to the Borders, to vifit or traffick 
with their Neighbouring Indians; and they will 
hunt all the way as they go and return. They 
hunt more or lef s at all Seaf ons of the Year ; 
never regarding whether their Venifon be in 
Seafon or not. They take with them one or 
two Dogs apiece, to beat about ; and there go as 
well Women as Men. When I went with them 
a Hunting, a young Woman was appointed me 
to wait on me, and carry my Basket of Provi- 
fions. 
Provisions. The Women carry in their Baskets, Plan- 

tains, Bonanoes, Yams, Potatoes and Caffava- 
roots, ready roafted ; but in the Woods, among 
the ruin'd Plantations, they often meet with 



WAFER'S DARIEN 161 

green Plantains which they drefs there, and 

with thefe Roots : So that if they go defignedly 

among fuch Plantations, they carry the lefs with 

them. [172] They carry alfo fome parch'd Maiz 

in Meal or Flower, and fome ripe Plantains raw, 

to make Mijlaw with. This is all their Provi- 

fion. Every Woman carries a Calabafh; and 

there are one or two Pipkins among them all. 

The Men carry Bows and Arrows, and Lances, 

a Tamahock or little Axe, and a Machete. All 

go barefoot, and are often fcratch'd in the 

Woods, but matter it not. They hunt Pecary, The Game. 

Warree, Quaums, Chicaly-Chicalees, Corrofous, or 

any other Beaft or Bird they meet with, except 

Monkeys and Deer. The Fowls, and what will 

not be fo ealily preferv'd, they eat prefently. 

They lodge all Night at any place where they 

happen to be at Sun-fet, fo it be near a Brook 

or River, and on the Nap of a Hill. They 

hang up their Hammocks between two Trees, 

and cover themfelves with a Plantain- Leaf, for 

Shelter from Rain, Wind, &c. with a Fire all 

Night by the Hammock. They never hunt 

after Sun-fet; and begin not again till Sun-rife. 

Their chief Game are the Pecary and Warree; 

neither of which are fwift of foot. They go in 

Droves, often 200 [173] or 300; fo that if the 

Indians come upon them unawares, they ufually 

kill fome by random Shot among them. But 

elfe, they are many times a whole Day without 

getting any ; or f o few, confidering how many 

they ftart, that it feems a great Toil to little 

purpofe. I have feen about 1000 ftarted in a 

Day, in feveral Droves, when I was hunting 



162 WAFER'S DARIEN 

with them; of which we kill'd but two, as I 
remember. Sometimes when they are fhot, 
they carry away the Arrows quite. When the 
Beaft is tir'd, it will ftand at a Bay with the 
Dogs; which will fet him round, lying clofe, 
not daring to feize, but fnapping at the But- 
tocks ; and when they fee their Mailer behind a 
Tree ready to fhoot, they all withdraw to avoid 
the Arrow. As foon as an Indian hath fhot a 
Pecary or Warree, he runs in and lances them ; 
then he unbowels them, throwing away the 
Guts, and cuts them in two acrofs the middle. 
Then he cuts a piece of Wood fharp at both 
ends; flicks the forepart of the Beaft at one end, 
and the hinder part at the other. So each lay- 
ing his Stick acrofs his Shoulder, they go to the 
Rendez-[i74]vous, where they appointed the 
Women to be; after which they carry their 
Meat home, firfl Barbecuing it that Night. 

When they take a Beaft or Bird, they pierce 
it with the Lances, or fhoot Arrows into it, to 
let out the Blood. Then they quarter it (firfl 
Curing the cutting off the Head) ; and if it be a Pecary they 
Meat. f cald off the Hair with hot Water ; if a Warree, 

they flea it. From fome of the Birds they flrip 
the Feathers only, from others the Skin alfo: 
And this not regularly, while the Carkafs is 
whole, but piece-meal, after they have difmem- 
ber'd it; efpecially in their Journies. 

If they intend to preferve any, having little 
Salt, they eredt four forked Sticks 8 or 9 Foot 
afunder, on which they lay two parallel Staves 
that fhall be above a Foot from the Ground, and 
fo make a Barbecue. Acrofs thefe Staves they 



WAFER'S DARIEN 163 

lay the pieces of the Beafts or Birds ; and f pread 
underneath a few live Coals, to make which they 
burn a parcel of Wood on purpofe ; and turn 
the fame pieces, and renew this fmall Fire for 
three or four Days, or a Week, till the Meat be 
as dry as [175] a Chip, or like our fmoak'd Beef. 
This they do abroad if they kill a great many 
Pecary, Birds, &c. and bring the pieces home 
ready dried: And if there be much of it, the 
Men help the Women to carry home the Veni- 
fon. Thefe pieces will keep a great while ; and 
when the Stock is almoft out, they go again a 
hunting. They make a Barbecue at home alfo, 
heaping up thefe dried pieces acrofs, and often 
putting fome Embers underneath, to keep them 
from giving, or growing mufty, in that moift 
Country. From thefe pieces they cut off bits 
for ufe as they want them. 

If they take any parcels of their dried Flefh, Their 
or any newly kill'd, they cut it into fmall pieces, Cookery; 
and throw them into the Pipkin ; putting into 
it fome of the Roots and green Plantains or 
Bonano's, or any other Eatable, and a great deal 
of Pepper ; ftewing all together by a fimmering, 
gentle Heat, never boiling it. The Veffel 
ftands thus clofe cover' d for feven or eight 
Hours, for 'tis fet on very early in the Morning, 
and they ftay till all be brought to Pulp or 
Mafh. This is for fet Meals; for [176] Plan- 
tains and Bonanoes they eat all Day ; but this 
fet Meal of Flefh they eat but once, about Mid- 
day only. The Mafh they pour out into a large 
Earthen Difh or Calabafh, fetting it on the and manner 
great Block which is in every Houfe as a Table, of Ea ting. 



164 WAFER'S DARIEN 

fitting round on little Blocks as on Stools. But 
at great Feafts, for large Companies, they make 
a great Barbecue 10, 12, or 20 Foot long, or 
more, as the Company is, and broad proportion- 
ably: They fpread on it 3 or 4 Breadths of 
Plantain-leaves for a Table- Cloth. Every one 
has a Calabafh of Water ftanding by him at his 
Right Hand, on the Ground. In Eating, they 
dip the two fore Fingers of the Right Hand, 
bent hook-wife, and take up therewith out of 
the Difh, as with a Spoon, as much as they can, 
ftroking it acrofs into their Mouths. At every 
Mouthful they dip their Fingers into the Cala- 
bafh of Water by their Side, whether for 
Cleanlinefs or Cooling, I know not; for they eat 
their Meat exceffive hot, as well as violently 
pepper' d. They eat nothing with it as Bread; 
but when they have a lump of Salt (which is 
rare) at every three [177] or four Mouthfuls they 
ftroke it over their Tongue, to give a Relifh, 
and then lay it down again. 
Their The Indians, when they Travel, guide them- 

Travelhng. f e ^ ves either by the Sun, when it fhines, or by 
fteering towards fuch a determinate Point, 
obferving the bending of the Trees, according 
as the Wind is. If they are at a lofs this way, 
they notch the Barks of Trees, to fee which fide 
is thickeft ; which is always the South, or Sunny 
fide; and their way lies generally through 
Woods. They go alfo through Swamps, Boggs, 
Rivers, &c. where there is no fign of a Path, 
and are often forc'd to turn afide; yet will keep 
their way pretty diredt for f everal Days together ; 
clearing their way through Thickets with their 



WAFER'S DARIEN 165 

Macheats, efpecially if of hollow Bamboes, for 
there is no getting through without it. They 
fwim over Rivers, Men, Women and Children, 
without felling Trees as we did there. But 
down the River they ufe either their Canoas, or 
Bark-Logs made of Light- Wood. 

When any enquire the Way of them, as we 
had feveral times occafion [178] to do in paffmg Shewing the 
and repaffing the IJlhmus, their ufual Method of Wa y and 
informing them as to the Bearing of the Place s . ime y 
they enquire after, is by pointing towards it; 
and as to the Time in which they may hope to 
arrive there, by pointing to fome part of the 
Arc the Sun defcribes in their Hemif phere : For 
according as they point higher or lower, either 
to the Eaft or Weft of the Meridian, they fug- 
gefl the time of the Day, Morning or Afternoon, 
in which you may hope to arrive at the River, 
Plantations, or whatever 'tis you enquire after. 
So the middle diftance between the Eaftern- 
Limb of the Horizon, and the Meridian, fignifies 
9 a Clock in the Morning ; |ths of the South-weft 
Arc of the Suns Diurnal Courfe denotes 4 in the 
Afternoon, &c. If the Time they would inti- 
mate be not of Hours but Days, they turn their 
Faces Southward, and defcribing with their 
Hand the Arc of the Suns Diurnal Courfe from 
Eaft to Weft, when they have brought their 
Hand to point to the Weftern Horizon, they 
then bring it to the fide of their Head ; and lay- 
ing down their Head on that [179] fide upon it, 
and f hutting their Eyes, counterfeit for a 
moment their being afleep. Then repeating the 
Motion with their Hand, and the intervening 



166 WAFER'S DARIEN 

fleeping times, they make you underftand that 
there will be fo many fleeping Times or Nights 
before you arrive at the Place you feek. 
Coinputa- I obferv'd among them no diftindtion of 

tionofTime. Weeks or particular Days; no parting the Day 
into Hours, or any Portions, otherwife than by 
this Pointing : And when they ufe this, or any 
other Sign, yet they fpeak at the fame time, 
and exprefs their Meaning in their own Lan- 
guage, tho' to Europeans who underftand it not. 
They reckon Times paft by no Revolutions of 
the Heavenly Bodies, but the Moons: For 
Lacenta fpeaking of the Havock the Spaniards 
had made to the Weftward, intimated 'twas a 
great many Moons ago. 
Numbers Their Computation is by Unites and Tens, 

and Calcula- an( j Scores, to an Hundred ; beyond which I 
have not heard them reckon. To exprefs a 
Number above this, they take a Lock of their 
Hair, little or great, (in proportion to the 
Number they would [180] intimate) and hold it 
up in their Hands, forting it gradually with 
their Fingers, and fhaking it. To exprefs a 
Thing innumerable, they take up all the Hair 
on one fide of the Head, and fhake it. 

When we went into the South Seas under 
Captain Sharp, we were in number about 336, 
as I remember ; * and a pretty many of the 
Indians of the IJlhmus bore us Company in our 
March. They were willing to take an Account 
of our Number as we march'd; fo one of the 

*Ringrose, p. 6, says 327, not including four men who 
' ' tyred, and returned back unto the Ships ' ' at the end of the 
first day's march. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 167 

Indians fat in the Path, and having a little heap 
of Maiz-grains by him, for every Man of ours 
that pafs'd by him he put one Grain into his 
Basket. When he had thus taken a great part 
of our Number, one of our Men, in palling by, 
gave his Basket purpofely a Tofs, and threw 
out his Corn, and fo fpoil'd his Account. This 
feem'd to difpleafe them: Yet one of them got 
a little before, and fitting clofe in the Wood, at 
a fmall diftance from the narrow Path, which 
we were to pafs one by one, he there took our 
Number in Grains of Maiz. But when he had 
taken his Account, they were put [181] to it to 
caft it up : For two or three Days after, in the 
progrefs of our March, coming among fome of 
the Southern Indians, we faw fome 20 or 30 of 
the graver Men got together, and trying their 
Skill to compute the Grains in the Basket ; which 
when they had laid upon a Plantain- Leaf, 
feveral of them indeavour'd to tell one after 
another: But when they could tell no further, 
(the Number, probably, exceeding their Arith- 
metick) and feem'd to grow very hot, and earneft 
in their Debates about it ; one of them ftarted up, 
and forting out a Lock of his Hair with his Fin- 
gers, and fhaking it, feem'd to intimate the Num- 
ber to be great and unknown ; and f o put an end 
to the Difpute. But one of them came after us, 
and enquir'd our Number in broken Spanifh. 

Their Cardinal Numbers, One, Two, Three, 
they name thus: 

1. Conjugo. Numeral 

2. Poquah. Names. 

3. Pauquah. 



168 WAFER'S DARIEN 

4. Pakequah. 

5. Eterrah. 
[182] 6. Indricah. 

7. Coogolah. 

8. Paukopah. 

9. Pakekopah. 

10. Anivego. 

11. Anivego Conjugo. 

12. Anivego Poquah. 

13. Anivego Pauqua, &c. 
20. Tbc/tf Boguah. 

40. 7W# Guannah. 

And fo on to 100.* 
Under 10 they content themf elves with nam- 
ing the particular Number at once ; which they 
do readily. But at the fame time that they 
name Anivego, or 10, they clap together their 
expanded Hands. And for n, 12, 13, &c. to 
20. they clap together their Hands, and fay 
Anivego; and then feparating them, they ftrike 

* The most convincing proof of the honesty and reliability 
of Wafer's observations is furnished by the vocabularies of the 
Indians of this region printed by Sr. Restrepo. The first was 
collected by General Joaquin Acosta in 1820, and the second by 
Dr. Cullen whose Darien Ship Canal was published in 1853. 





Acosta: 


Cullen : 


I. 


Cuencheco. 


Cuinchecua. 


2. 


Pogua. 


Pocoa. 


3- 


Pagua. 


Paqua. 


4- 


Paquegua. 


Paquegua. 


5- 


A tale. 


Aptali. 


6. 


Nergua. 


Nercua. 


7- 


Anvege. 


Cugle. 


8. 


Cugule. 


Pabagi. 


9- 




Paquebag. 


10. 




Atnbe. 


20. 




Tulaquena. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 169 

in order the Fingers of the left Hand, one by- 
one, with the Fore-finger of the right, faying, 
Anivego Conjugo, Anivego Poqua, Anivego Pauqua, 
&c. to the Number they would exprefs, if 
under 20. 

When they would exprefs 20, they clap their 
Hands twice, (once at every 10) and fay Toola 
Boguah. Toola [183] feems to fignifie the fame 
with them, as Score with us. For 21, they fay 
Toola boguah Conjugo; 22, Toola boguah Poquah, 
&c. To exprefs 30, they clap their Hands 
thrice, and fay Toola boguah Anivego, (Twenty 
and Ten); for 31, Toola boguah Anivego Conjugo, 
(Twenty and Eleven), and fo on to 40; when 
again they clap their Hands four times, and fay, 
Toolaguannah, implying another Score ; 41, Toola 
guannah Conjugo, &c. 50, Toola guannah Anivego, 
(Two Score and Ten); 51, Toola guannah Anivego 
Conjugo, (Two Score and Eleven), &c. The Name 
of the other Scores to 100, I know not; and 
there are few of them can reckon fo far: For 
while I was among them, I was induftrious to 
learn their Numbers, and 'twas a Diverfion I 
had with them ; for they liked well my trying 
to imitate them, and would be very merry upon 
it : But 'twas not every one could readily carry 
me much farther than I have now reckon 'd, or 
fet me right if I was out. 

Their way of Reckoning thus from Score to Reckoning 
Score, is no more than what our old Englifh way b y Scores - 
was: But their [184] faying inftead of 31, 32. 
One Score and Eleven, One Score and Twelve, 
&c. is much like the High-Landers of Scotland 
and Ireland, reckoning Eleven and Twenty, 



170 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Irifh and 
Scotch 
Highland- 
ers Num- 
bers. 



Twelve and Twenty, &c. fo for 53, the High- 
Landers fay Thirteen and Twofcore, as the 
Darien Indians would, Two Score and Thirteen, 
only changing the Place. In my Youth I was 
well acquainted with the High-Land, or Primi- 
tive Irifh Language ; both as it is f poken in the 
North of Ireland, particularly at the Navan upon 
the Boyne, and about the Town of Virgini upon 
Lough Rammer in the Barony of Cajlle Raghen, 
in the County of Cavan; and alfo in the High- 
Lands of Scotland, where I have been up and 
down in feveral Places. Their way of Reckon- 
ing may be a Curiofity to fome; for which 
Reaf on I have here inf erted a Table of it ; fpelt, 
not according to the Orthography, but the Pro- 
nunciation. 
[185] 1. Hean. 

2. Ds>. 

3. Tree. 

4. Caher. 

5 . Cooig. 

6. Shae. 

7. Shaucht. 

8. Oacht. 

9. Nnye. 

10. Deh. 

1 1 . Heanegg. 

12. Dibeegg. 

13. Treedeegg. 

14. Caherdeeg. 

1 5 . Cooigdeegg. 

16. Shae de egg. 

17. Shauchtdeegg. 

18. Oachtdeegg. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 171 

19. Nnyedeegg. 

20. Feh. A Score. 

21. Hean augus fek. Briefly ausfek; augus 

[fignifies and. 

22. Ds> augus feh. Two and a Score. 

23. 7>v£ augus feh. Three, &c. 

30. Z>M augus feh. Ten and a Score. 

31. Heanegg augus feh. Eleven and a 

[Score. 
[186] 32. Dtieegg augus feh. 

40. Yoyiht. 

41. Hean augus tti yoyiht. 

42. Z^d» augus tti yoyiht. 

50. ZV/z augus tti yoyiht. 

5 1 . Heanegg augus tti yoyiht. 

52. Da>eegg augus tti yoyiht. 

60. Tree feht. 

61. Hean augus Tree feht. 
70. ZWz augus Tree feht. 
80. Careh-fehth. 

90. Zte^ augus Careh-fehth. 
100. Cooig fehth; or £Vz^, a Hundred. 
200. Oychead. 
1000. Meelah. 
1 000000. Meelioon. 

My Knowledge of the High-Land Language Indian Pro- 
made me the more capable of learning the nunciatlon 
^ . r t. T -. x compar'd 

Danen Indians Language, when I was among with theirs> 

them. For there is fome Affinity, not in the 
Signification of the Words of each Language, 
but in the Pronunciation, which I could eafily 
imitate ; both being f poken pretty much in the 
Throat, with frequent Afpirates, and much the 
fame fharp or circumflex Tang or Cant. I 



172 WAFER'S DARIEN 

learn 'd a great deal [187] of the Darien Language 

in a Months Converfation with them ; for I was 

always asking what they call' d this and that: 

And Lacenta was continually talking with me ; 

who fpake alfo a few Words of broken Spanifh. 

I took no care to retain any of the Indians Lan- 
guage ; but f ome few Words that I ftill remem- 
ber, I have here put as a Specimen. 
Indian Tautah. Father. 

Words. Naunah, Mother. 

Poonah, Woman. 

Roopahy Brother. 

Bidama foquah Roopoh ? How do you Brother ? 

Neenah, a Girl. 

Nee, the Moon. 

Chaunah, Go. 

Chaunah Weemacah; Make haft, run. 

Shennorung; big, a great Thing. 

Eechah, ugly. 

Paeecha ; f oh ! ugly ! 

Eechah Malooquah, (an Expreflion of great dif- 
like). 

Cote hah, fleep. 

Caupahy a Hammock. 

Cotchah Caupah ? Will you go fleep in the 
Hammock ? 

[188] Pa poonah eetah Caupah? Woman, have 
you got the Hammock? 

Doolah, Water. 

Doolah Copah ? Will you drink Water? 

Chicha-Copah, Maiz-drink. 

Mamaubah, Fine. 

Cah, Pepper. 

Aupah eenahf What do you call this? 



WAFER'S DARIEN 173 



[189] Mr. Wafer's Voyages, &c. 

HAVING thus gone over the IJlhmus, and The Rela- 
made fuch Obfervations about it as tionofthe 

occurr'd to me, I fhall now refume the oya f e con " 

tmued. 

Thread of my Voyage, which I broke in the See p. 44. 
South Sea, at Realeja on the Coaft of Mexico, Harbour of 
where I parted with Mr. Dampier, after my Reale J a - 
fecond being with him in thofe Seas. Captain 
Swan, in the Cygnet, was going to the Weft- 
ward ; and Mr. Dampier chofe to go with him. 
I ftaid with Captain Davis, in the Batchelors 
Delight; and he was for going again to the 
Southward. 

So we left them in the Harbour of Realeja, See Dam- 
when we fet out Aug. 27. 1685. with three other P&r>sVoy- 
Veffels in our Company. But our Men growing jj 8 ^ 
very fick when we were got out to Sea, we foon 
put into the Gulph of Amapalla. There we lay Gulph of 
feveral Weeks at a fmall Ifland, on which we Amapalla. 
built Huts for our fick Men, whom we put 
afhore. In our 4 fmall Ships, we had then 
above 130 lick [190] of the Spotted Fever, many 
of whom died: Yet tho' I attended them every 
Day, I thank God I efcap'd the Infedtion. But 
'tis not my Intention to particularize as to all 
the Places or Occurrences we met with ; for I 



174 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



kept no Journal: But fome fuch Things as I 
took more particular Notice of, and thought 
worth remarking, I fhall briefly fpeak of as I go 
along. 

Being in great want of Provifion while we lay 
here, we went afhore, in order to fupply our 
Neceflities at a Beef-Eftantion on the Continent, 
at the South of the Cod of the Bay, which lay 
from the Landing-place about three Miles. In 

Hot River, our way we were forced to pafs a hot River in 
an open Savannah, altho' we made fome diffi- 
culty at it by reafon of its Heat. This River 
iffued out from under a Hill: But it was no 
Vulcan, tho' there are feveral on this Coaft. I 
had the Curiofity to wade up the Stream as far 
as I had Day-light to guide me: The Water 
was clear and fhallow, but the Steams under 
the Hill were like thof e of a boiling Pot, and my 
Hair was wet with them. The [191] River 
without the Hill reek'd for a great way. Many 
of our Men who had the Itch bath'd themf elves 
here, and growing well foon after, they imputed 
it to the Sulphuroufnefs, or other Virtue of this 

Fierce Water. In this place are a multitude of Wolves, 

Wolves. w hich are the boldeft that ever I met with ; for 
they would come fo near, as to be almoft ready 
to pull the Flefh out of our Hands: Yet we 
durft not fhoot them for fear the noife of our 
Guns fhould call more to their Affiftance, and 
we went but ftragling up and down. 

Our Men being tolerably well recover 'd, we 
flood away to the Southward, and came to the 

I. Cocos, Ifland Cocas, in 5 Deg. 15 Min. N. Lat. 'Tis fo 
call'd from its Coco-Nuts, wherewith 'tis plenti- 



WAFER'S DARIEN 175 

fully ftor'd. 'Tis but a fmall Ifland, yet a very 
pleafant one : For the middle of the Ifland is a a pleafant 
fteep Hill, furrounded all about with a Plain, Place - 
declining to the Sea. This Plain, and particu- 
larly the Valley where you go afhore, is thick 
fet with Coco-nut Trees, which flourifh here 
very finely, it being a rich and fruitful Soil. 
They grow alfo on the [192] Skirts of the hilly 
Ground in the middle of the Ifle, and fcattering 
in Spots upon the fides of it, very pleafantly. 
But that which contributes moft to the Pleafure 
of the Place is, that a great many Springs of 
clear and fweet Water rifing to the top of the 
Hill, are there gather' d as in a deep large Bafon 
or Pond, the Top fubfiding inwards quite round ; 
and the Water having by this means no Chan- 
nel whereby to flow along, as in a Brook or 
River, it overflows the Verge of its Bafon in 
feveral Places, and runs trickling down in many 
pretty Streams. In fome Places of its overflow- 
ing, the Rocky Sides of the Hill being more 
than perpendicular, and hanging over the Plain 
beneath, the Water pours down in a Cataract, as Arched 
out of a Bucket, fo as to leave a Space dry Cataradts. 
under the Spout, and form a kind of Arch of 
Water; which, together with the advantage of 
the Profpect, the near adjoining Coco-nut Trees, 
and the frefhnefs which the falling Water 
gives the Air in this hot Climate, makes it a 
very charming Place, and delightful to feveral 
of the Senfes at once. 

[193] Our Men were very much pleas'd with 
the Entertainment this Ifland afforded them: 
And they alfo fill'd here all their Water-Casks; 



176 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Numbed- 
nefs with 
drinking 
Coco-milk. 



\.\Galla- 
pago's. 

Land-Tor- 
toife, &*c. 



for here is excellent frefh Water in the Rivulet, 
which thofe little Cataradts form below in the 
Plain ; and the Ship lay juft at its Outlet into 
the Sea, where there was very good Riding: 
So that 'tis as Commodious a Watering- Place 
as any I have met with. 

Nor did we fpare the Coco-nuts, eating what 
we would, and drinking the Milk, and carry 
feveral Hundreds of them on board. Some or 
other of our Men went afhore every Day: And 
one Day among the reft, being minded to make 
themfelves very merry, they went afhore and 
cut down a great many Coco-trees ; from which 
they gather' d the Fruit, and drew about 20 
Gallons of the Milk. Then they all fat down 
and drank Healths to the King, Queen, &c. 
They drank an exceffive quantity ; yet it did not 
end in Drunkennefs: But however, that fort of 
Liquor had fo chilled and benumb'd their 
Nerves, that they could neither go nor ftand: 
Nor could they return on board the [194] Ship, 
without the Help of thofe who had not been 
Partakers in the Frolick : Nor did they recover 
it under 4 or 5 Days time. 

From hence we ftood on ftill to the South, 
and came to one of the Ga/lapago-Iftands, lying 
under the Line. Upon one of thefe Iflands we 
found a great many very large Land-Tortoife, 
of that fort which we us'd to call Hecatee. Upon 
this Ifland is no Water to be found, but in one 
place, whither I obferv'd thefe Animals fre- 
quently go to drink ; but they go not into the 
Water. 

At this Ifland there was but one Watering- 



WAFER'S DARIEN 177 

place, and there we Careen' d our Ship. Hither 

many Turtle- Doves and other Birds reforted for 

Water ; which were at firft f o familiar with us, 

that they would light upon our Heads and Arms ; 

infomuch that for feveral Days we maintained 

the Ships Company with them : But in a little 

time they began to be fo fhy, that we could kill 

none, but what we fhot. Here are alfo Guano's Guano's. 

very plentiful, which are very good Food. 

There grows a fort of Wood in this Ifle very 

fweet in fmell. [195] 'Tis but a low Tree, not 

fhrubby, but like a Pear-tree, tho' thicker ; and 

full of very fweet Gum. While we lay here at 

the Gallapago's, we took in at one of the Iflands 

there 500 Packs of Flower, which we had form- Flower left 

erly left there upon the Rocks ; * but the Turtle- there - 

Doves had devour' d a great deal of the Flower, 

for the bags lay expos' d to the Air. 

When we left the Gallapagd s we went cruifmg Cruifmg on 
upon and down about feveral of the Iflands and tne Coaft of 
Coafts of Peru ; the Particulars of which I f hall 
not trouble the Reader with. We had Engage- 
ments at Guavra, Guacha and Pifca ; and the two 
laft very fharp ones, yet we took the Towns. 
There was with us then in Company Captain 
Knight only; for the other two Veffels that 

*In May, 1684, the buccaneers took on one day three ships 
laden with flour, bound from Guanchaquo, the seaport of 
Truxillo, to Panama, while near the Lobos Islands. Thence 
they sailed to the Gallapagos Islands, where " we stay'd but 
12 days ; in which time we put ashoar 5000 packs of Flower, for 
a reserve, if we should have occasion of any before we left 
these Seas. . . . Captain Davis came hither a second 
time ; and then he went to other Islands on the West side of 
these." — Dampier, pp. 109-110. 



Peru. 



178 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Monkeys 
and Oyfters 
at Gorgonia, 



La Nafca 
Wine. 



Coquimbo. 



Its Gold 
River. 



came with us from Amapalla, had left us at the 
Ifland Cocas. 'Twas July 1686. when we were 
at Pifca, and Capt. Knight and we kept Com- 
pany almoft all that Year. 

Among other Places we were at the Ifland 
Gorgonia, where we clean'd; and I took notice 
of feveral Monkeys there who liv'd partly upon 
Oyfters, [196] which they got out of the Sea at 
low Water. Their way was to take up an 
Oyfter, and lay it upon a Stone; and with 
another Stone to keep beating of it, till they had 
broke the Shell to pieces. 

We were together alfo at La Nafca, which is 
a fmall Port, in the Lat. of 15 S. It affords 
abundance of rich, ftrong Wine, (as Pifca and 
other Places on that Coaft alfo do) tafted much 
like that of Madera. 'Tis brought down out of 
the Country to this Port, to be fhipt for Lima, 
Panama, or other Places. It lies here fometimes 
many Years ftopt up in Jars of about eight Gal- 
lons apiece : But the Jars are under no Shelter, 
but fland expos 'd to the hot fcorching Sun; 
being plac'd along the Bay, and between the 
Rocks, every Merchant having his own Mark'd. 
We took in ftore of this Wine. 

We were alfo together at Coquimbo, a large 
Town with nine Churches in it, lying in about 
29 S. Lat. Here we landed upon a deep Sand, 
in a large Bay, which had a fmall River that 
ran through the Country, and made its way out 
three Mile below the [197] Town. In this River 
the Spaniards get Gold higher up in the Coun- 
try ; and the Sands of the River by the Sea, as 
well as the whole Bay, are all befpangled with 



WAFER'S DARIEN 179 

Particles of Gold ; infomuch that as we travelled 
along the Sandy Bays, our People were covered 
with a fine Gold-duft ; but too fine for any thing 
elfe; for 'twould be an endlefs Work to pick it 
up. This Obfervation I have made in fome 
other Places along the Coaft, where any of thofe 
Gold-rivers make their way into the Sea thro' 
Sandy Bays ; for there the Sand is in a manner 
guilded by them : But all that is worth looking 
after is up near the Rivers Heads, or towards 
the Mountains they fall from, where the weight- 
ier Grains lodge ; for none but this meer Duft 
of it is wafh'd down to the Sea. 

We went after this to the Ifland of John Fer- I. John 
nando, where we Careen 'd; and there Captain Fer nando. 
Knight left us, making the beft of his Way 
round Terra del Fuego to the Weft- Indies. But 
we were for Coafting it back again toward the 
Line ; having with us a Bark we had taken off 
Pifca. 

[198] Going off therefore from John Fernando' s, 
we flood yet further South in going over to the 
Continent, to the Latitude of 39 S. as well to 
gain a Wind as to have the more of the Coaft 
before us. We fell in firft with the Ifland of 
Mocha, which lies in about 38 Deg. 20 Min. S. I, Mocha. 
and wanting Water and Provifion we came to 
an Anchor, and put afhore there, about the 
middle of December, 1686. and ftay'd 5 or 6 
Days. Here we were very well relieved, for 
the Ifland afforded both Water and frefh Provi- 
fion for our Men, all the time we ftay'd. The 
Land is very low and flat, and upon the Sea- 
coaft fandy; but the middle Ground is good 



180 WAFER'S DARIEN 

Mould, and produces Maiz and other Wheat, 
Barly, with variety of Fruits, &c. Here were 
feveral Houfes belonging to the Spani/h Indians, 
which were very well ftored with Dunghil-Fowl. 
They have here alfo feveral Horfes : But that 
which is moft worthy of Note, is a fort 
Its Sheep of Sheep they have, which the Inhabitants call 
[i. e., the Corner a de Terra. This Creature is about four 
ama]. Foot and an half high at the Back, and a very 

ftately Beaft. Thefe Sheep [199] are fo Tame, 
that we frequently ufed to bridle one of them, 
upon whofe Back two of the luftiest Men would 
ride at once round the Ifland, to drive the reft 
to the Fold. His ordinary Pace is either an 
Amble or a good Hand-gallop ; nor does he care 
for going any other Pace, during the time his 
Rider is upon his Back. His Mouth is like that 
of a Hare ; and the Hair-lip above opens as well 
as the Main-lips, when he bites the Grafs, which 
he does very near. His Head is much like an 
Antelope, but they had no Horns when we were 
there; yet we found very large Horns, much 
twifted, in the form of a Snail-fhell, which we 
fuppos'd they had fhed : They lay many of them 
fcattering upon the Sandy-bays. His Ears 
refemble thofe of an Afs, his Neck fmall, and 
refembling a Cammels. He carries his Head 
bending, and very ftately, like a Swan ; is full- 
chefted like a Horfe, and has his Loyns much 
like a well-fhap'd Grey-hound. His Buttocks 
refemble thofe of a full-grown Deer, and he has 
much fuch a Tail. He is Cloven-footed like a 
Sheep, but on the inlide [200] of each Foot has 
a large Claw, bigger than ones Finger, but fharp 



WAFER'S DARIEN 181 

and refembling thofe of an Eagle. Thefe Claws 
ftand about two Inches above the Divifion of 
the Hoof; and they ferve him in climbing 
Rocks, holding faft by whatever they bear 
againft. His Flefh eats as like Mutton as can 
be: He bears Wool of 12 or 14 Inches long 
upon the Belly; but 'tis fhorter on the Back, 
fhaggy, and but inclining to a Curl. 'Tis an 
innocent and very ferviceable Beaft, fit for any 
Drudgery. Of thefe we killed forty three ; out 
of the Maw of one of which I took thirteen 
Bezoar-Rones, of which fome were ragged, and 
of f everal Forms ; fome long, refembling Coral ; 
fome round, and fome oval ; but all Green when 
taken out of the Maw: Yet by long keeping 
they turn'd of an Afh-colour ; and I have fome of 
them now by me. 

The Spaniards told us, That thefe Creatures 
are extraordinarily ferviceable to them at the 
Mines of Potofi, (which lie a great way up in the 
Country) in bringing the Silver from thence to 
the Cities that lie toward [201] the Sea; between 
which Cities and the Mines are fuch cragged 
Ways and dangerous Precipices, that it were 
almoft impoffible for any Man, or any other 
Beaft to carry it. But thefe Sheep being laden, 
and led to the Precipices, their Mafter leaves 
them there to themfelves for above fixteen 
Leagues; and never meets them, till he himfelf 
has alfo fetch 'd a Compafs about 57 Leagues 
round. This their furenefs of Foot confifts 
folely in their aforefaid Claws, by which they 
hold themfelves fo faft upon the leaft Footing, 
that they can go where no other Beaft can. 



182 WAFER'S DARIEN 

The Spaniards alfo inform 'd us, That at a City 
they named, which has no Water within a League 
of it, thefe Beafts, being bred up to it, were wont 
to be laden with two Jars, like Panniers, upon 
their Backs, and away they would go, without 
Guide or Driver; and when they came to the 
River, would lie down, and rowle themfelves 
in the Water until both the Jars were full ; and 
then, of their own accord, would return home 
with their Water. The Spaniards added, That 
this Creature will not nor can be forc'd [202] to 
work after Day-light: And we found them 
obftinate enough; for when once lain down, no 
Beating f hould make them rife ; but they would 
lie and make a whining or groaning, tho' they 
were not tir'd, being but newly taken up. 

We went from Mocha to the Continent, and 
kept failing and touching along the Coaft of 
Chili, often fending our Canoas afhore, till we 

R. of came to Copayapo, in the Lat. of about 26 S. 

Copayapo. ^y e wan ted Water, and fo put afhore to fee if 
we could find the River that bears the Name of 
the River of Copayapo. As foon as we came 
afhore we afcended a Hill, in hopes to defcry 
that River from the top thereof; but contrary 
to our Expectation, when we came to the top, 
we had yet another fteep and very high Hill to 
climb, and another after that; infomuch that 
before we reach'd the utmoft heighth, I fainted 
for want of Water : But refrefhing my f elf with 
that of my own, I at laft came to the top of the 
third Mountain, where we fat down and refted 
our felves under the Shade of a vaft craggy Rock. 
The Place where we fat was cover 'd with Sand 



WAFER'S DARIEN 183 

and Sea-fhells of [203] divers Shapes and Forms; Sea-fhelison 
tho' indeed, which I wonder 'd at, there were no the to P s of 
Shell-fifh on the Shores all along this whole P^jS? 

to Shell-fifh on 

Coaft. I have landed at many Places of it, but the Coaft. 
could never find any. When we had refted our 
Selves in this Place, which was, as near as we 
could compute, 8 Miles from the Sea, and at 
leaft a Mile in perpendicular above it, we looked 
round us, to fee for the River ; but to our great 
Grief could difcover none. All this Land, as 
well high as low Ground, is cover 'd with Sand 
and Sea-fhells, many of which are of the fhape 
of a Scallop-f hell ; and thefe in vaft, quantities, 
in fome Places, efpecially at the Feet of the 
Rocks, from whence they are crumbled and 
driven down by the Winds : For in the very Mafs 
of the Stones of Rocks there were, as I remem- 
ber, of the very fame forts of Shells. We were 
told by the Spaniards, That at one time of the 
Year, the Sun melting the Snow that lies upon 
the top of the Mountains that are a great way 
up in the Country, makes the River that we 
looked for overflow. It may as well poffibly be 
from Rains falling on [204] thefe Mountains far No Rain on 
within Land ; for I never knew it Rain on all the Coaft. 
the Sea-Coaft of Chili and Peru; but we could 
fee Clouds hovering over the Tops of the Moun- 
tains within Land, as we fail'd along the Coaft: 
And once at Arica we could not fee the Moun- 
tains peeked Top for Clouds that hung about it ; 
tho' at another time we faw it plain enough; 
the Rains then probably, being gone off from 
the Hill-Country: But as for Arica it felf and 
its Neighbouring Sea-Coaft, we were told by old 



184 WAFER'S DARIEN 

Spaniards, Inhabitants there, that they never 
had any Rain. I have alfo been at one time of 
the Year afhore at the River of Ylo, but could 
find little or no Water : Yet at another time of 
the Year there was Water enough, although I 
never knew of any Rain on that Coaft, and the 
Spaniards told us it never rain'd there, unlefs far 
within Land : Yet they have very great Dews. 
Barren At Copayapo the Coaft is barren and defolate, and 

Land. f Q on eac h {[& e a n along both Chili and Peru ; 

nothing is to be feen but bare Sands, and naked 
Rocks, unlefs in a Valley now and then : No 
Trees, [205] Herbs, or other green Thing. Nor 
did we fee any fort of Fowl, nor Beaft, or other 
living Creature: No People, nor Sign of any; 
unlefs here and there a poor Town or Village, 
at as forry a Port, with fcarce Water enough, 
at moft of them, to admit a Cock-boat, unlefs 
at a Flood: Elfe, little or no Water, nor any 
Thing for Accommodation or Ufe. 

Getting no Water at Copayapo, we were forc'd 

to put to Sea again, and flood along the Coaft 

Arica, to Arica, which is a Town of Peru, handfomely 

feated in the bending of that Coaft, in the Lat. 

of between 18 and 19 S. Hither the Silver of 

the Port for Potoji is brought down to be fhipt off for Pana- 

the Mines of ma ^ f or t ^ e Harbour is tolerably good, having a 

° Road made with a little Ifland lying before it, 

breaking the Swell of the Sea, which is here 

very great and continually rowling in upon the 

Shore ; though f mooth as the Surface of a River, 

here being little or no Wind to curl the Waves. 

It dafhes fo violent againft the Shore, which is 

all along a high bold Coaft, tho' nothing fo high 



WAFER'S DARIEN 185 

as the Mountains far within Land, that there is The Andes. 
fcarce any Land-[2o6]ing hereabouts but juft at 
Arica it felf. There is a little River which 
Arica ffcands upon, and we would have taken in 
Water there ; but there was no getting at any 
frefh, for its Outlet was among little craggy 
Rocks, and the Sea- water dafh'd in among it. 
We landed here, and ranfack'd the Place, meet- 
ing with little or no Refiftance ; we got a few 
Hogs and Poultry, Sugar and Wine ; and faw a 
whole Houfe full of Jefuits Bark,* as I have 
faid already, p. 99. I was here alfo formerly 
with Capt. Sharp, when we had fo fmart an 
Engagement that we loft a great number of our 
Men; and every one of our Surgeons was kill'd 
befide my Self, who was then left to guard the 
Canoas. 

We went hence a little further to Lee- ward, 
and water'd at the River Ylo, where we got Oil- R. Ylo. 
Olive, Figs, and Sugar, with feveral Fruits; 
all which grow there very plentiful. There is 
an Oil-work, and two or three Sugar-works. 
There are extraordinary good Oranges, of the 
China fort. 'Tis the fineft Valley I have feen a fine 
on all the Coaft of Peru; very fertile and well Valley. 
furnifh'd with [207] a multitude of Vegetables : 
Tho' it has no Moifture but that of the little 
River, (which they carry winding up and down 
among their Grounds in Artificial Channels) and 
the great Dew which falls every Night. The 
Valley is the pleafanter, and fo are all thofe of 
Peru and Chili, for the difmal barren Mountains 

*Chinchona, or Peruvian bark, from which "quinine" is 
derived. 



186 WAFER'S DARIEN 

that lie all about, and ferve as Foil to them: 
They are moftly fandy or black Rocks, like 
Cinders or Iron-Stones, for Colour. 

Courfe Diet. In failing along upon this Coaft we were 
fometimes put to it for Food as well as Water; 
and once were fo Hunger-pinch'd, that meeting 
with fome Sea-Crabs on the Coaft, one of our 
Men, Mr. Smallbones, eat them raw, and even 
Sea- weeds: But others of us, -whofe Stomachs 
would not ferve for that Food, looking about, 
found a lean gall'd Horfe grafmg in a little Spot 
at the foot of the Hill; which we prefently 
kill'd, cut in pieces, and making a Fire with 
Sea-weeds, eat the Flefh while 'twas hardly 
warm, leaving none, but carrying the very Guts 
aboard. 

[208] I fhall not purfue all my Coafting along 
this Shore with Captain Davis ; but two Particu- 
lars more I muft not omit : The one is, That we 

Vermejo. put afhore at Vermejo, in 10 Deg. S. Lat. There 
we landed about 30 Men (of whom I was one) to 
fee for Water, or any other Refreshment that 
we wanted. After we were landed, we marched 
about four Miles up a Sandy Bay ; all which we 

Dead Bodies found covered with the Bodies of Men, Women 

in great an( j Children; which lay fo thick, that a Man 

!N umbers 

might, if he would, have walked half a Mile, and 
never trod a Step off a dead human Body. Thefe 
Bodies, to appearance, feem'd as if they had 
not been above a Week dead; but if you 
handled them, they prov'd as dry and light as 
a Spunge or piece of Cork. After we had been 
fome time afhore, we efpyed a Smoak; and 
making up to it, found an old Man, a Spanifh 



WAFER'S DARIEN 187 

Indian, who was ranging along the Sea-fide, to 
find fome dried Sea- weeds, to drefs fome Fifh 
which his Company had caught; for he belong'd 
to a Fifhing-boat hard by. We asked him many 
Qtieftions, in Spanifh, about the Place, and how 
[209] thofe dead Bodies came there ? To which 
he returned for Anfwer, That in his Fathers 
time the Soil there, which now yielded nothing, 
was green, well-cultivated and fruitful : That the 
City of Wormia had been well inhabited with 
Indians : And that they were fo numerous, that 
they could have handed a Fifh, from Hand to 
Hand, 20 Leagues from the Sea, until it had 
come to the Kings or Ynca's Hand: That the 
River was very deep, and the Current ftrong : 
And that the reafon of thofe dead Bodies was, 
That when the Spaniards came, and block 'd up 
and lay'd Siege to the City, the Indians, rather 
than lie at the Spaniards Mercy, dug Holes in 
the Sand, and buried themfelves alive. The 
Men as they now lie, have with them their 
broken Bows; and the Women their Spinning- 
wheels, and Diftaffs with Cotton-yarn upon 
them. Of thefe dead Bodies I brought on board 
a Boy of about 9 or 10 Years of Age, with an 
intent to bring him home for England : But was 
fruftrated of my purpofe by the Sailors; who 
having a foolifh Conceit, that the Compafs 
would not [210] traverfe aright, fo long as any 
dead Body was on board, threw him overboard, 
to my great Vexation. 

This Place is a deep fandy Ground, of little 
Hills and Valleys of Sand. 'Tis like the reft 
of this part of Peru, without Rain : But it has 



188 



WAFER'S DAR1EN 



Santa. 



Ships caft 
far afhore 
by an Earth 
quake. 



Dews, and there was the Channel of a fmall 
River; yet 'twas dry when we were there. 

The other Particular I would fpeak of, is of 
our touching at a Place called Santa, a fmall 
Town in the Lat. of 8 Deg. 40 Min. S. Here I 
went afhore and fo up to the Town, which was 
three Miles or thereabouts from the Sea. In our 
way to the Town we crofs'd a fmall Hill; and 
in a Valley between the Hill and the Town we 
faw three fmall Ships of about 60 or 100 Tuns 
apiece, lodg'd there, and very ruinous. It 
caufed in us great Admiration, and we were 
puzzled to think how thofe Ships could come 
there: But proceeding toward the Town, we 
faw an Indian, whom we called, and he at the 
firft Motion came to us. We ask'd him feveral 
Queftions, and among the reft, how thofe Ships 
came there? He told [211] us, That about 9 
Years before, thefe 3 Ships were riding at 
Anchor in the Bay, which is an open Place, 
about 5 or 6 Leagues from Point to Point; and 
that an Earthquake came, and carried the Water 
out of light; which ftayed away 24 Hours, and 
then came in again, tumbling and rowling with 
fuch Violence, that it carried thefe Ships over 
the Town, which then ftood on the Hill which 
we came over, and lodged them there ; and that 
it deftroyed the Country for a confiderable 
way along the Coaft. This Report, when we 
came to the Town, was confirmed to us by the 
Parifh-Prieft, and many other Inhabitants of the 
Town. 

We continued thus Rambling about to little 
purpofe, fometimes at Sea, and fometimes 



WAFER'S DARIEN 189 

afhore ; till having fpent much time, and vifited 
many Places, we were got again to the Galla- I. Galla- 
pago's, under the Line; and were then refolv'd P a g°' s - 
to make the beft of our Way out of thefe Seas. 
Accordingly we went thence again for the 
Southward, intending to touch no where till we 
came to the Ifland of John Fernando. In our way 
[212] thither, about four a Clock in the Morning, 
when we were in the Lat. of 12 Deg. 30 Min. 
S. and about 150 Leagues from the Main of 
America, our Ship and Bark felt a terrible Earthquake 
Shock ; which put our Men into fuch a Confterna- felt at Sea - 
tion, that they could hardly tell where they 
were, or what to think ; but every one began to 
prepare for Death. And indeed the Shock was 
f o fudden and violent, that we took it for granted 
the Ship had ftruck upon a Rock : But when the 
Amazement was a little over, we caft the Lead, 
and founded, but found no Ground; fo that 
after Confultation, we concluded it muft cer- 
tainly be fome Earthquake. The fuddennefs 
of this Shock made the Guns of the Ship leap in 
their Carriages, and feveral of the Men were 
fhaken out of their Hammocks. Captain Davis, 
who lay with his Head over a Gun, was thrown 
out of his Cabbin. The Sea, which ordinarily 
looks Green, feemed then of a Whitifh Colour; 
and the Water which we took up in our Buckets 
for the Ships ufe, we found to be a little mixed 
with Sand. This at firft made us think there 
was [213] fome Spit of Sand; but when we had 
founded, it confirmed our Opinion of the Earth- 
quake. Some time after we heard News, That 
at that very time there was an Earthquake at 



190 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Earthquake 
at Callao by 
Lima. 



New Land 
difcover'd. 



[St. Felix 
and St. 
Ambrose 
Islands.] 



Callao, which is the Road for Lima ; and that the 
Sea ebbed fo far from the Shore, that on a fud- 
den there was no Water to be f een : And that 
after it had been away a confiderable time, it 
return 'd in rowling Mountains of Water, which 
carried the Ships in the Road of Callao a League 
up into the Country, overflowed the City of 
Callao, though it flood upon a Hill, together 
with the Fort, and drowned Man and Beaft for 
50 Leagues along Shore; doing Mif chief even 
at Lima, though fix Miles within Land from the 
Town of Callao. This feems to have been much 
fuch another Earthquake as that, the Effedts of 
which we faw at Santa. 

Having recover'd our Fright, we kept on to 
the Southward. We fleer 'd South and by Eafl, 
half Eafterly, until we came to the Latitude of 
27 Deg. 20 Min. S. when about two Hours 
before Day, we fell in with a fmall, low, fandy 
Ifland, and [214] heard a great roaring Noife, 
like that of the Sea beating upon the Shore, 
right a Head of the Ship. Whereupon the Sail- 
ors, fearing to fall foul upon the Shore before 
Day, defired the Captain to put the Ship about, 
and to fland off till Day appeared ; to which the 
Captain gave his confent. So we plied off till 
Day, and then flood in again with the Land ; 
which proved to be a fmall flat Ifland, without 
the guard of any Rocks. We flood in within a 
quarter of a Mile of the Shore, and could fee it 
plainly; for 'twas a clear Morning, not foggy 
nor hazy. To the Weflward, about 12 Leagues 
by Judgment, we faw a range of high Land, 
which we took to be Iflands, for there were 



WAFER'S DARIEN 191 

feveral Partitions in the Profpedt. This Land 
feem'd to reach about 14 or 16 Leagues in a 
Range, and there came thence great Flocks of 
Fowls. I, and many more of our Men would 
have made this Land, and have gone afhore at 
it ; but the Captain would not permit us. The 
fmall Ifland bears from Copayapo almoft due E. 
500 Leagues; and from the Gallapago's, under 
the Line, 600 Leagues. 

[215] When we were again arriv'd at John I. Mocha 
Fernando s, which was at the latter End of the laidwafte; 
Year, 1687. we clean'd our Ship there, having 
quitted our Bark, and flood over to the Main; 
intending to get fome of the Sheep of Mocha, for 
our Voyage round Terra del Fuego. But when 
we came there, the Spaniards had wholly de- 
ftroyed or carried away the Sheep, Horfes, and 
all other living Creatures. We went then to 
Santa Maria, an Ifland in 37 Deg. S. in expecta- I. Santa 
tion of frefh Provifion ; but this Ifland was like- Maria alfo 
wife deftroy'd: So we were forc'd to content 
our felves with fuch Provifion as we had brought 
from the Gallapago' s ; which were chiefly Flower, 
Maiz, Hecatee or Land-Tortoife falted, and the 
Fat of it tried, or made into Lard or Oil, of 
which we got there 60 Jars.* The Spaniards 

* Dampier, p. 109, says that, while he was at the Gallapagos, 
in 1684, they " sent ashoar the Cook every morning, who killed 
as many as served for the day .... feeding sometimes 
on Land-Turtle, sometimes on Sea-Turtle. Captain Davis 
came hither again a second time ; and .... he and his 
Men eat nothing else for 3 Months that he staid there. They 
were so fat, that he saved sixty Jars of Oyl out of those that 
he spent: This Oil served instead of Butter, to eat with 
Dough-boys or Dumplins, in his return out of these Seas. ' ' 



192 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



and John 
Fernanda's. 



Some flay 
afhore at 
John Fer- 
nanda's. 



Terra del 
Fuego. 

A Storm. 
C. Horn. 



had fet Dogs afhore at John Fernando" 's alio, to 
deftroy the Goats there, that we might fail of 
Provifion: But we were content with killing 
there no more than we eat prefently ; not doubt- 
ing but we fhould have found Sheep enough at 
Mocha, to vidtual the Ship. 

[216] Three or Four of our Men, having loft 
what Mony they had at Play, and being unwill- 
ing to return out of thefe Seas as poor as they 
came, would needs flay behind aXJohn Fernando' s, 
in expectation of fome other Privateers coming 
thither. We gave them a fmall Canoa, a Por- 
ridge-pot, Axes, Macheats, Maiz, and other 
Neceffaries. I heard fince that they planted 
fome of the Maiz, and tam'd fome of the Goats, 
and liv'd on Fifh and Fowls; of which there is 
one fort Grey, and about the fize of a fmall 
Pullet, that makes Burrows in the Ground like 
a Rabbit; lodging there in the Night, and 
going out to catch Fifh in the day: For 'tis a 
Water-Fowl, and eats a little fifhy, yet pretty 
well tafted after a little burying. I heard alfo 
that thefe Men were taken by a Privateer- Veffel 
which came thither a Year or two after; and 
that one of them is fince come to England. 

We were now (landing out to Sea again, to 
double Terra del Fuego : We were in a terrible 
Storm for about three Weeks before we came 
off Cape Horn : We did not fee Cape Horn, [217] 
being a great way to the South of it, and in the 
Lat. of 62 Deg. 45 Min. S. nor did we well 
know what Courfe to fleer, having but very 
indifferent Seamen aboard. It was now about 
the heighth of Summer here ; for I remember 



WAFER'S DARIEN 193 

that upon Chriftmas day, 1687. we were juft 
clear of the Storm, and in the Latitude we men- 
tion'd, off Cape Horn. Running hence to the 
Northward again, being now got out of the 
South Sea, we met feveral Iflands of Ice ; which Iflands of 
at firft feemed to be real Land. Some of them Ice - 
feemed a League or two in length, and fome 
not above half a Mile. The biggeft feemed, as 
we fail'd by them, which we did before the 
Wind for feveral Days, to be about 4 or 500 Foot 
high. We founded near them, but found no 
Ground ; f o that it may reaf onably be concluded 
they were afloat; and perhaps reach'd as deep 
into the Water, as their heighth was above it. 
We faw no fuch Iflands of Ice as I went into the 
South Sea with Mr. Dampier; neither did I ever 
hear that Captain Sharp met with any in his 
return out of that Sea. Thefe Iflands [218] 
appear' d to us fo plain at Night, that we could 
eafily fee how to fteer clear of them : But there 
were fome which lay under Water, which we 
could not poffibly fhun, but fometimes they 
would fhake our Ship: Yet they never did us 
much Dammage. From thefe Hills of Ice came 
very cold Blafts of Wind; infomuch that our 
Men, newly coming out of a hot Country, could 
hardly endure the Deck. 

In all our Paffage round Terra del Fuego the 
Weather was fo ftormy, for 3 Weeks that we lay 
to the Southward of Cape Horn, and the Sun and 
Stars fo obfcur'd, that we could take no Obferva- 
tion of our Lat. yet, by our Reckoning, we were 
in very near 63 Deg. S. Lat. which is the farth- 
eft to the South that any European, probably, 



194 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



Mifreckon- 
ing the 
Variation.* 



A feafon- 
able Rain. 



ever yet was, and perhaps any Man. When we 
were in Lat. 62. Deg. 30 Min. we began to think 
of fhifting our Courfe to the Northward again, 
toward the ALthiopick and A tlantick Seas ; and we 
foon brought our f elves to ftand E. N. E. and 
E. and by N. and kept much thofe Courfes for 
a great way. In our Paf-[2io,]fage we had 
allow'd for three Points Wefterly Variation: 
But when we came to have a good Obfervation, 
we found that we had gone to the Eaftward, 
making our way E. and by S. We found there- 
fore that we had miftaken the Variation of the 
Compafs, fo that we concluded the Variation to 
be Eafterly, and fteer'd away N. N. E. and N. 
E. and by N. 

By this means, when we came into the Lati- 
tude of the River of Plate, along which we 
intended to run, we reckon 'd our f elves to be 
about 100 Leagues off Land; and ftood in 
diredtly for the Shore, not doubting but we 
fhould find it at that diftance. But we were 
then really 500 Leagues off; and having run 
fome hundreds of Leagues to the Weft in the 
fame Latitude, and yet finding no Land, our 
Men were out of Heart, fearing we were ftill in 
a wrong Courfe, and being all in danger of 
perifhing at Sea, through want of Provifions; 
having little Food, and lefs Water. It pleas' d 
God, during this Exigence, to fend us a Days 
Rain, which fell very plentiful ; and we fav'd 
of it feveral Casks of Water, [220] which was a 
great Refrefhment to us, and made our Men 
pluck up their Hearts for fome time. But hav- 



* Cape Horn current sets strongly eastward. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 195 

ing run 450 Leagues in this Latitude, and ftill 

finding no Land, which they had expedted to 

have feen in 100, this bred a frefh Commotion, 

and we had like to have been all together by the 

Ears upon it. The greateft part were for 

changing the Courfe, which they thought muft 

needs be wrong: But Captain Davis, and Mr. Deliverance 

Knott the Mafter, begg'd of them for God's fake from a 

1 .1 r ^ r t^ 1 Danger of 

to keep the fame Courfe two Days longer, p eri f hin g at 
which they did, though we had but a fmall Sea. 
Wind : And in that time a Flight of Locufts and 
other Infedts coming off with a Flurry of Wind 
from the Weft, affur'd us there was Land there, 
not far off. Had not this providentially hapned, 
we fhould have chang'd our Courfe, for the 
Men would not have been perfuaded to the con- 
trary ; for a great many of them were f o ignor- 
ant, that they would not be perfuaded but they 
were ftill in the South Sea: And had we chang'd 
this Courfe, we fhould have ftood out to Sea 
again, and muft have perifh'd there. 

[221] The Land we made, following the Coaftbythe 
direction of the Flurry and the Locufts, and R - of Plate - 
fetting the Point they come from by the Com- 
pafs, was a little to the North of the Mouth of 
the River of Plate. We put afhore here to get 
Water and frefh Provifions, of which this Coun- 
try afforded plenty : And here our Men having 
with them their Fufees, fpy'd a Herd of Sea- Sea-Swine. 
Swine, as we call them, upon a Point a Land ; 
and were thereupon refolved to kill fome of 
them to bring on board. In order thereunto 
they contrived, that fome Men fhould flop the 
Pafs that led up to the Mountain, whilft others 



WAFER'S DARIEN 



went in among them, and with their Cutlaffes 
did what Execution they could. But ftill as the 
Men came near them, the Herd walked toward 
the Sea, contrary to our Mens expectation ; for 
they hitherto took them to be Land-Swine. 
There they ftood on the Shore, flaring at and 
admiring our People : But when the Men came 
near enough, and were juft going to ftrike 
among them, the whole Herd jump'd into the 
Sea, leaving the Men in amazement, and forely 
vex'd at [222] their Dif appointment. But at 
another time they fhot and brought on Board 
two of them, which eat like Land-pork, except 
fome Fifhy tafte it had. They were fhap'd 
much like Swine, and had fhort Hair more 
briftly than that of Seals; and like them had 
finny Stumps to fwim with, and were of a 
Black Colour. The Country hereabouts is 
well watered, but without any Inhabitants. 
Here is notwithftanding abundance of black 
Cattle, of which for feveral Scores of Leagues 
we obferved many Herds; with Deer alfo, and 
Eftridges. 
Ejiridges. We faw a great many of thefe Eftridges, and 

found abundance of their Eggs on the Sand: 
For there fhe drops her Eggs upon the Ground, 
and 'tis faid fhe never takes any farther Care of 
them; but that they are hatched by the Sun, 
and the young one fo foon as hatched follows 
the firft Creature it meets with. I my felf had 
fometimes a great many young Eftridges follow- 
ing me. They are a foolifh Bird; they will 
follow Deer or any Creature. The old Birds 
are here very large: I meafur'd the Thigh of 



WAFER'S DARIEN 197 

one of them, and [223] thought it little lefs than 

my own. We have had feveral of them on 

board, and fome we eat; but the old ones were 

very rank, courfe Food. Some fancy that the 

Eftridge eats Iron: I believe juft as truly as 

Poultry eat Pebble- Stones, not as Food but 

for Digeftion, and to ferve as Mill- Stones, 

or. Grinders, to macerate their Food in the 

Maw. The Eftridge will indeed fwallow 

Nails or Stones, or any thing you throw to it ; 

but they pafs through the Body as whole as they 

went in. 

Putting off to Sea again, we Coafted along Bra/a. 

Brajil, and thence toward the Caribbe-Iftands; 

where meeting with one Mr. Edwin Carter, in 

a Barbadoes Sloop, I and fome others went 

aboard him, and had of him the News of King 

James's Proclamation to pardon and call in 

the Buccaniers* So we went in his Ship to The A. 

the River de la Ware, and up into Penlilvania, arrives m 

Pcftftl- 

to the City of Philadelphia-, where I arriv'd in vania 

May, 1688. 

There I ftayed fome time ; after which I came 

down the River de la Ware as far as Apokunnumy- 

creek, with Capt. Davis, and John Hingfon who 

[224] was left with me on the IJlhmus : There 

we carted our Chefts, with other Goods, over a 

fmall Neck of Land into Bohemia-River, which 

leads down the great Bay of Chijapeek to Point- and 

Comfort in James- River in Virginia. There I Virginia. 

* This was probably either the royal proclamation against 
pirates issued January 20, 1688, following the announcement 
of the cessation of hostilities with France, or perhaps the royal 
declaration of indulgence and proclamation for suppression of 
piracy, issued May 22, 1687. 



198 WAFER'S DARIEN 

Conclusion, thought to fettle: But meeting with fome 
Troubles, after a three Years refidence there, I 
came home for England in the Year, 1690. 



FINIS 



WAFER'S DARIEN 199 



[225] Index. 

[Figures refer to original pagination, in brackets.} 



A 



D UL TER Y; how punifhed, Pag. 163 , 
Air at Portobel, 67. 
at Panama, 76. 



Alligators, 112. 

Amapalla Gulph, 189. 

Anguilla; its Land- Crabs, 112. 

Animals of the Ifthmus, 104. 

Ants, 123. 

Arica, 205. 

Aih-IJle, 143. 

Authors firjl Voyage, 1. fecond Voyage, 3. j£r/2 
meets Mr. Dampier, 4. Misfortune in pajjing the 
Ifthmus, 5. great Hardfhips, 5, to 24. narrowly 
ef capes Drowning, 18. his fear of the Indians, 23. 
fets out for the North Sea a fecond time, 25. 
bleeds Lacenta'^ Lady, 29. his repute among the 
Indians, 30. gets leave of Xacenta to [226] depart, 
33. fets out a third time for the North Seas, 35. 
arrives at the Sea- fide, 37. meets with the Priva- 
teers, 41 . his coafling about the Weft-Indies with 
Mr. Dampier, 43. arrival at Virginia, 44. goes 
a fecond time with Mr. Dampier into the South 



200 WAFER'S DARIEN 

Sea, and parts with him there, 45. Voyage con- 
tinued, 189. arrives at Penfilvania, 223. and 
Virginia again, 224. 

B. 

Bamboes, 27, 97. 

Bantam, 1. 

Barcaderoes, or Landing-places, 2. 

Baftimento's IJle, 4, 48, 61 , 63. 

Bats, I2i. 

ifo?.y, 122. 

Bezoar- ftones in Mocha Sheep, 200. 

Bibby-tree and Fruit, 23, 86. and Oil, 87. 

Birds of the Ifthnms, 114, 119. 

Blood-letting, 28. 

Bocca-Drago, 68. 

Toro, 68. 

Bonano's, Tree and Fruit, 88. 
Bowman (William) his narrow Efcape, 15. 
[227] Brafil, 223. 

Buckenham (Capt.) taken Prifoner, 8. hard 
Ufage, 3- 



Calabafh-tree, 92. 

Canes, 63. 

Caret-Bay, 47, 52. 

Cartagena, 4. 

Caffava Roots and Bread, 10 1. 

Cats; much ejleem d by the Indians, 109. 

Cavally-fifh, 125. 

Cedars, 84. 

Chagre-River, 47, 51, 52, 73. 

Chains; ornamental, 146. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 201 



Cheapo- River, 21, 47, 72. 
Chepelio-//fc, 77. 
Chicaly Chicaly; Bird, 114. 
Cinamon, 97. 
Coco-Ife, 191. 

Nut-Tree, 87, 192. 

Combs us'd by the Indians, 132. 
Conception-jfowr, 52, 58. 
Congo- River, 70, 77. 
Conjuring, 37. 
Cookery, 175. 
Copayapo-ifo'zw, 202. 
Coquimbo, 196. 
Cormorants, 121. 
[228] Cor of ou- Bird, 115. 
Cotton-tree, 26, 83. 
Conchs, 127. 
Crabs ; Land, m. 

5^«, 128. 

Crab- If and, 112. 
Craw-fifh, 128. 
C&/.J, 162. 

D. 

Dancing, 168. 

Dead Bodies found in abundance, 208. 

Zte^r, 106. 

Dexterity of the Indians, 159. 

Diadems of Gold, &c. 145. 

Z>zW, 207. 

Diver fion, 169. 

Dogs, 106. 

Dog-fifh, 124. 

Drink, 153. 



202 WAFER'S DARIEN 

E. 

Earthquake felt at Sea, 212. Ships cas? far on Land 

by them, 210, 213. 
Eating, 176. 
Education, 158. 
Eels, 127. 

Employments, 161, 167. 
Eflridges, 222. 

[229] F. 

Feafls, 166. 

John Fernando //&% 197, 217. 

./^.s - , 206. 

Fifh of the Ifthmus, 124, 128. 

Fifhing, 129. 

.F/y; fhining, 122. 

Floods, 18, 8k. 

Forts, or War-houfes, 150. 

i*#w/ <?/ ^ Ifthmus, 1 19. 

Fruits of the Ifthmus, 83. 

G. 

Gainy (George) drowned, 10. 

Gallapago's Ifles, 194, 211. 

Gar -fifh, 126. 

Garachina, 47, 68, 76. 

Guatimala Government, 76. 

Gopfon (Richard) dies, 42. + 

Gold, 31. 

Golden Ifland, 4, 53. 

Gold River, 31, 69, 197. 

Gorgonia, 195. 

Gourds, 93. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 203 

Guacha, 195. 
Guanoes, 113, 194. 
Guavra, 195. 
Sea-Gulls, 121. 

[230] H. 

Habits of the chief Indians, 37, 141, 146. of the 

other Men and Women, 138, 140, &c. 
Hair, 132, 135. 
Hills, 34, 48, 50. 
Hogs, 104. 
Hony, 123. 
Horn, Cape, 216. 
Horfes, 198. 
Houfes, 149. 
Hunting, 170. 
Husbandry, 152. 

I. 

Jamaica, 3. 

Jamby Town, 1. 

Ice-IJlands, 217. 

Jefuits-Bark, 99, 206. 

Iihor, 1. 

Indians <:#r<? M* Author, 8. #?r dif pleas' d, 8. o>«- 
/*«# /# /£z7/ M^ Author and his Company, II. 
afterwards receive them kindly, and why, 24. 
Conjuring, 37. Miz'r Stature, Features, &c. 131. 
s cutting off their Hair on killing an Enemy, 133. 
w/zzV*? Indians, [231] 134. pai?iting themf elves, 
138. etf^T Ornaments of both Sexes, 140, 143, 
&c. Houfes, 149, &c. Plantations and Husbandry , 
152. Womens Employments, 157, 160. Lying-in, 
158. Education of Children, 158, 160, &c. 



204 WAFER'S DARIEN 

Mens Employments, 161, 167, 170. Punifhments, 
163. Marriages and Feajis, 163, 166. Recrea- 
tions, 167. Hunting and Cookery, 170, 174. 
Travelling, 177. Numbers and Calculation, 178, 
179, &c. Language and Pronuntiation, 186. 
Good Qualities, 8, 9, 24, 141, 157, 162, 165, 169. 
Bad 166, 170. 

Infecls, 109, 122. 

IJlands on each fide the Ifthmus, 48, 54. 

Ifthmus of Darien ; its breadth, &c. 46. Situation, 
47. Hills, &c. 48. Rivers, 51. North- Sea 
Coafl defcriV d, 52, &c. South-Sea Coaft, 68, 
&c. .SW/, 77. Woods, 50, 78. Air and Weather , 
79. Floods, 18, 81. Vegetables, 83. Beafls and 
Reptiles, 104. Birds and Flying Infects, 114. 
Inhabitants, 131. 



Lacenta /m Civility, 12. Palace, 26. detains the 
Author, &c. 27. Re f peel [232] /o //z^ Author, 
32, 34. gives him leave to depart, 33. /wly Wives, 
162. 

Land, barren, 204. 

Floods, 18, 81. 

7z<?w difcoverd, call'd by Mr. Dampier, 

Davis's Land, 214. 

Language, 187. 

Lavelia, 75. 

Leon, 75. 

Lightning, 80. 

Limpits, 128. 

Lizards, 113. 

Locufl-tree, 97. 

Lorenzo, Cfl/*, 68. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 205 

M. 

Macaw-berries and Tree, 16, 84. 

Macazv-birds, 116. 

Maho-tree, 91. 

Maiz, Flower and Drink, 153, 166. 

Malacca, 1. 

Mammee-tree and Fruit, 88. 

Mammee-Sappota, 89. 

Manckinel-tree and Fruit, poifonous, 90. 

Mangrove-trees, 61, 98. 

Marriages, 163. 

Mice, 109. 

[233] 5/. Michael' s Gulph, 47, 68, 71. 

Mijlaw of Plantains, 154. 

Mocha-//fc, 195, 215. 

Modejly of the Indians, 141, 162. 

Monkeys, 107, 195. 

Moon-eyd Indians, 136. 

Moskitds, or Gnats, 81. 

N. 

La Nafca, 196. 

Nata, 75. 

Nicaragua-Z<2&?, 51. 

Nombre de Dios, 62. 

North-Sea Coafl of the Ifthmus, 52. 

Nofe-rings, 144. 

Numbering and Numeral Names, 181. 

Nimibednefs with drinking Coco-milk, 193. 

O. 

Oil of Bibby-berries, 87. 

Olive, 206. 

0/ ^£ Soldier- Inf eels ; ate Virtues, 1 1 1 . 



206 WAFER'S DARIEN 

Old Wives, a Fifk, 125. 
Oranges, 206. 
Oyfters, 195. 

[234] P. 

Pacheque IJland, 77. 
Panama, 48, 74, 77. 
Paracoods, Fifh, 135. 
Parakites, 116. 
Parrots, 116. 
Parrot -fifh, 127. 
Pawawing, or Conjuring, 38. 
Veaxl-IJlands, 48, 77. 
Pecary, Be aft, 104. 
Pelican, 119. 
Pendants, 145. 
Penfilvania, 223. 
Pepper, 100. 
Perica, 7/fc, 48, 74, 77. 
Periwinkles, 128. 
Sea- Pies, 121. 
Pine-apples, Fruit, 89. 
Pines, IJland, 55. 
Pifca, 193. 
Plantains, 87. 
Plantations, 152. 

Plates of Gold, &c. ornamental, 143. 
Popes-heads, a Shrub, 27, 90. 
Portobel, 4, 47, 65. 
Port- Royal, 4. 
Potato's, 101. 

Prickle-pear, Fruit, 27, 90. 

[235] Privateers, make an order to kill thofe that 
fl a £> 7, four left on the Ifthmus «/*M /^<? Author, 



WAFER'S DARIEN 207 



7. leave the Ifthmus, and cruife in the W. 

Indies, 43. cruife on the Coajl of Peru, 195. 
Provijions, 171. 
Punta mala, 76. 

Q. 

Quolla, or Landing-place, 2. 
Quam, Bird, 115. 



R. 



Rabbits, 107. 
Rain, 17, 80. 
Rats, 109. 
Realeja, j6. 
Recreations, 167. 
Rio Grande, 76. 
Rivers, 46, 51. 
hot, 190. 



S. 



Salt, how made, 130. 
Sambo-Tt'zwr, 68. 
Sambaloes Channel, 58. 
Sambaloes, IJles, 48, 56. 
[236] Sanballas, Point, 56, 60. 
Santa, 5^z)>^ cafl a-ground there, 210. 
Santa Maria, 4, 69, 215. 
Sappadilloes, Tree and Fruit, 89. 
Savannahs, 72. 
Scrivan, /W, 60. 
Sculpins, Fifh, 127. 
Sea-Gulls, 121. 
Sea-pies, 121. 
Sea- f wine, 221. 



208 WAFER'S DARIEN 

Scuchadero, 70. 

Sharks, 124. 

Sheep, 198. 

Shell- fifh, 127. 

Ships cajl fome miles on the fhore, 210. 

Shining Fly, 122. 

Sholes, 71. 

Silk-grafe, 94. 

Smoaking, 102. 

Snakes, 109. 

Snooks, Fifh, 127. 

Soil of the Ifthmus, 52, 77. 

Soldier- In feci , no. 

La Sounds 7£>y, 57. 

South-fea Coafl of the Ifthmus, 68. 

Spanifh Indians, 64. 

Spaniards deflroy Mocha, &c. 215. 

Spiders, 109. 

Springer'.? iu?y, 57. 

Stingrays, Fifh, 127. 

[237] Storms, 216. 

Sugar, 206. 

Sugar-Canes, 90. 

T. 

Tamarinds, 97. 
Tar pom, Fifh, 104. 
Terra del Fuego, 216. 
7&r/3f, 163. 
Thunder, 80. 
Tigers, 147. 

Teeth, 147. 

77#^, z7z^ Indians computation of it, 179. 
Tobacco, 102. 



WAFER'S DARIEN 20tt 



Tortoife, 194. 
Travelling, 13, 177. 
Trees, 58, 83. 

V. 

Valleys, 48. 

Venta de Cruzes, 73. 

Vermin, 109. 

Vermejo, dead Bodies there, 208. 

W. 

Warree, Beajl, 105. 

Wars, 1. 

[238] Water, 48. 

fffcr, 123. 

Weather, 79. 

Weaving, 160. 

Win?, La Nafca, Pifca, <5r. 196, 

Women, 138, 140, 156, 162. 

Woods, 50, 78. 

Wood-pecker , 118. 

Wood, light, 95. 

ra/, 100. 

white, 96, 



Fa#z.y, 10 1. 
Ylo River, 206, 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 
To the Introduction and Notes 

(The numbers refer to the pagination of this volume, and not, 

as in the preceding Index, to that of the original 

edition, reprinted in brackets in the text.) 



Acosta, Joaquin, 168 note. 
Adultery, how punished, 154. 
Albinos, 133. 
Antarctic regions, buccaneers 

in, 16, 67, 179, 193. 
Antigua Island, 16. 
Arica, Chile, 13, 14. 
Atrato River, 69 note. 
Ayres, Philip, 1.7. 

Balsas River, 56 note . 

Barbados Island, 16. 

Bark logs, description of, 46 

note, 49. 
Bayano River, 49 note. 
Blood-letting, 54. 
Bowman, William, 38, 44. 
Browne, Zachary, 33. 

Caledonia, Scotch colony in 

Darien, 20. 
Canaza River, 43 note, 53 note. 
Canoes, 10, 95. 

Carolina, piracy in, 18, btnote. 
Chepo River, 49. 
Chugunaque River, 85 note. 
Cobson, Richard. See Gobson. 



Congo River, Colombia, 15, 38, 

87 note. 
Cook, John, 18, 35, 65 note, 67. 
Coxon, 11. 

Crooke, William, 17, 18. 
Crusoe's Island, 192. 

Dampier, William, 12, 15, 18, 
19. 35, 65. 

Darien Company, Scots', 20. 

Davis, John, 173, 177, 197. 

Doctors, accompanying bucca- 
neers, 11, 14, 37, 55. 

Doctors, Indian, 54. 

Drake, Sir Francis, 14. 

Drake's Island, 14, 15. 

Exquemeling, John, 16. 

Gallapagos Islands, 177. 

Gambling, 13, 16. 

Gayny, George, 41. 

Gold, 56. 

Gopson, or Gobson, Richard, 
37, 51, 62, 65. 

Greek testament, read by buc- 
caneers, 37. 

Guayaquil, Ecuador, 13. 









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